Agree ASE.. I think there had to be some loctite on there. I had to use a large breaker bar on mine as they were stock rotors

I hadn't noticed the 136 ft-lb specified in newer FSMs with '14+... older models specify 91 ft-lbs

 

Well, now I can’t get the rear rotors off (at least driver’s side..). I easily removed caliper and pads and bracket.

I tried the 2 screws which helped, but I am thinking it’s either hung up on parking brake pads (parking brake is off) or rust???

Some say the rotor hole at 6 o’clock can help release parking brake tension with a little wheel. I’ve seen it on other cars and gxbob has a video of parking brake adjustment after rotor is removed.

This is so frustrating. Never experienced these issues doing brake jobs. I have 18mm on the original rotor. Min thickness is 16. I don’t feel a huge lip. Current oem pads are thinner than the backing plate. Pad slap?

And I tried a rubber mallet too. No dice.

Any suggestions?

 

You will likely need to back off the parking shoes. It is probably hanging up on a rust ring inside

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...l#post10486423

 

That worked. It was just very difficult to find the wheel and you must turn it downwards. My up close vision sucks (astigmatism and wear progressive lens). And the flashlight I used is too bright almost.

Now lets hope I can set it correctly on new rotor. Will watch the gx bob video again.

Going to try the passenger side now. Oh joy!

I really appreciate all the assistance from forum members. Saving so much by diy instead of dealer.

 

^^ ... yes, those rear emergency brake drums can be a PITA ... but better than most current vehicles that now have automatic servo-controlled emergency brakes ... where a rear brake job now requires a scan tool to disengage ...

 

Although the install was not as easy as I expected due to Lexus super torqued bolts and rear parking brake tension etc., my initial impression of the Powerstop z36 (truck/tow) brake pads/rotors is positive. I completed the bedding in process for front and rear pads and drove about 10 miles or so late last night.

With limited mileage so far, I will say I feel the kit is better than OEM/factory pads/rotors. Good stopping power even on wet roads yesterday evening. Will update my review after a roadtrip or two and more miles on the new set-up. Powerstop offers several different pads and full kits at various price points. I thought the z36 might work best given the gx curb weight.

The GX is at my Lexus dealer for some potential warranty repairs. Driving a 2024 RX loaner for now.

 

Replaced front pads and rotors as well as all brake hardware yesterday. Stuck with OEM pads and rotors from Bell Lexus.

Fronts

Mine is a 2014 and caliper to knuckle bolts were 17mm. I was anticipating 19mm since DIY Maintenance sticky reflected 19mm and 136 for torque. Went ahead and torqued the 17mm to 136... In hindsight, since they were 17mm, should have torqued them to 91. Presume 19mm should be torqued at 136…Going to work on back pads and rotors today…

 

^^ to dispell misinformation ... the hex head size on any bolt is NOT the bolt size ... the front calipers use M-12 (12mm) Bolts ... which is the diameter of the bolt shaft. The hex head size is immaterial ... but it does appear that Lexus increased the torque requirement, and with that increased the hex head size from 17mm to 19mm to prevent rounding. Not sure if they increased the bolt (yield) strength from 8.8 to 10.9 with this change ... probably both are the same ... meaning 10.9 given the application ...

 

In looking at replacement calipers in case my dealer/warranty won’t cover new or rebuilt due to boot tear at front piston, I see a new front caliper with 12mm holes and one with 14mm holes. Are the 14mm likely with the 19mm size head?

Alternatively, I see a Toyota/Lexus part number for a caliper/boot repair kit. Seems like an inexpensive and hopefully easy fix? Any guidance appreciated.

The repair kit pn is 04478-60080. $20 bucks at my local Toyota dealer.

Thanks

 

Replacing my brake pads and rotors today and noticed a nick in the front brake tube. It looks like the metal tube is slightly nicked under the coating after cleaning. Is this an immediate need to fix? Not sure how long it's been like this. I will get it replaced, but still need to drive and I'm not comfortable replacing it myself.

Thanks!

 

probably nothing - but have a helper press hard on the brakes while you watch (wear eye pro, pls). If no leakage, buy a replacement and wait until next time brake work is done. Ask techs to replace and flush/bleed or do it yourself.

if it’s leaking replace it immediately.

 

... not a question of leaking ... more a matter of bursting under hard braking ... replace ASAP ... 800-1,000 psi under normal braking ... 1,500-2,000 psi under maximum braking ... why take the risk ? ... always replace in pairs ... bleeding the brakes after replacement anyway ...

 

..................

 

Had both front replaced as soon as I could get into the dealer, and got bent over for it. $10 in parts and $450 in labor There goes the $$ I saved on the pads/rotors lol.

They said both were nicked, so while I'm not happy with the price, I'm glad it's safe to drive again. They also tried to get me to pay $4K for a timing cover replacement!! Supposedly starting to leak but the pic they sent looks fine. I will be finding an independent shop.

 

Good call ... Brakes are the most important system on a vehicle, so best to eliminate any potential risks. $450 is insane (that's probably close to 3 hours of Labor) ... unless they also did a complete brake system flush ... still high, but closer to being reasonable.