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Did they say what caused the failure? Was it rubbing somewhere or manufacturing defect?
Good question ... how did this abrasion happen in the first place ? Proximity to being in contact with any hard rubbing surfaces with suspension movement ? ... otherwise a complete mystery that needs to be understood ... otherwise may happen again ...
Good question ... how did this abrasion happen in the first place ? Proximity to being in contact with any hard rubbing surfaces with suspension movement ? ... otherwise a complete mystery that needs to be understood ... otherwise may happen again ...
Their guess was road debris like a rock or something. Definitely not from rubbing another part of the vehicle.
I replaced my pads, rotors, and full brake fluid flush about a year ago. Calipers are all stock and vehicle is at around 90k miles.
I noticed last Friday after a drive to my cabin I heard a noise at arrival from right rear when backing up and discovered that wheel was pretty hot. Thermal gun showed it around 450 degrees compared to around 100-125 for the other rotors.
I have far less tools at my cabin than my house for full size rigs so had to make do with what I had before I could run into town. Tools I have are more biased toward motorsports gear.
Caliper comes off fine and compresses easily. No indication of a collapsed line either. Slide pins looked like they could use some extra lube but again do move and brake hardware didn't have abnormal buildup.
No drag of parking brake drums nor any play or sounds that there are any bearing problems.
I then took another test drive... temp is now about 100 degrees lower at around 350.
Next day I get a few things from town but pick up some caliper lube.
I take things apart again and exercise the piston a few times with a c-clamp to make sure it doesn't pop out. I then thoroughly wire brush off any residue from hardware and lube up pins.
Now temp is down another 100 degrees to around 200-250. On another drive it seemed even lower so may have temporarily freed up something but still needs to be addressed.
Unless there is something upstream at the brake valve body I assume the caliper has some minor scoring/corrosion or that the seal within the caliper to help retract is worn out or deformed.
I'm not opposed to a rebuild but I think I will get a new caliper this time and use the old one as a learning tool of procedure when I need to do the other. I know rebuild kits are dirt cheap compared to a new replacement but I'm fine with that in this case if I get some knowledge out of it. Honestly never had to replace or rebuild calipers on any of my vehicles over the years. I guess I was lucky.
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EDIT: I decided to go with a new one from Bell Lexus @$172
In current condition it has settled around 250F degrees which isn’t great but I should be fine traveling home.
^ ... good plan ... new OEM calipers are actually not that expensive if ordered from an online discount Lexus dealership. I also installed stainless steel (flexible) brake lines ... wow what a difference ... brake pedal response is instantaneous in comparison to the OEM "rubber" lines.
Like tires ... brake anything ... I always replace in (axle) pairs.
A simple and cheap way to see if any calipers are starting to drag and cheap. No need for scientific accuracy of a few degrees. If one is significantly different than others that is something to look into.
^ ... good plan ... new OEM calipers are actually not that expensive if ordered from an online discount Lexus dealership. I also installed stainless steel (flexible) brake lines ... wow what a difference ... brake pedal response is instantaneous in comparison to the OEM "rubber" lines.
Like tires ... brake anything ... I always replace in (axle) pairs.
what brand are your brake lines and where did you purchase?
I have a 2023 bought new and now at 13000 miles and compared to my wife's 2021 RX, the brakes are terrible, she doesn't want to drive the GX. Soft, spongy and honestly don't inspire much confidence. I was in a parking lot, light rain and a car backed out in front of me, I jammed on the brakes and nothing happened. THE GX kept moving forward and felt like I was on ice. this was at about 1500 miles, took it to the dealer and as I expected, everything is normal. I told them at a traffic light I have to press hard on the pedal to keep it from moving forward, again, everything is fine. Are there any aftermarket brake pads or calipers that will correct this situation? Getting tired of the brakes on this car, at times it feels unsafe Like I said, the RX brakes will stop on a dime, the GX, not so much. Not happy with the brakes at all.
As far as installing SS brake lines, how difficult is that and can I get the dealer to do it, don't want to void my warranty
Last edited by stuartfl; Apr 28, 2025 at 03:15 PM.
Reason: I want to change the beginning
1) The GX brakes are something of contested topic. Its a mix of drivers not being familiar with truck brakes and maybe some underspecing of brakes.
2) First thing is first, try to get some seat time in a loaner GX or one on the used lot to just see if they all are normal.
3)Bleed the brakes if possible at all.
4) If an upgrade is necessary, ss will improve pedal feel but it wont improve performance.
5) Brakes wises the OEMs are ceramic which are geared towards NVH and low dust targets. If you can handle the dust, try some semi metallic pads. If you dont want to spend time on research go with the forum favorite of Powerstop pads and rotors kit.
6) Personally I dislike the powerstop rotors as they are cross drilled. Im more of a get the biggest heat sink aka rotor on the wheel with an aggressive semi metallic pad person. Bendix Fleet Metlok pads with some plain jane completely coated (not just hats).
The brake should NOT do that I will check out EVERY 2015 GX460 they have on the dealer lot to see if it is consistent....and the plastic should not do that neither. The fix is just a fix, not a design.
Hey there! Reviving an old post, so the ZZZZ noise on the brake pedal is normal?