Wasn’t sure if Lexus rotors were sufficient for two pad cycles. Will check measurements when I pull them off.

The powerstop package is upgraded z36 extreme truck blah blah…pads matched to rotors.

So, guess its best to use the package. And then brake fluid flush. Will do fronts first. Test drive and rears after test driving and bedding in the new fronts.

I wasn’t really impressed with the factory oem setup during panic stops nor in wet weather sometimes. Hopefully the upgraded pads and rotors will perform better.

 

Haven't had a rotor turned in over a decade - and had some bad experiences with auto parts stores' machining prior to that. I'm sure you are well within spec to get them turned (most CPO's will have re-surfaced factory rotors with new pads - mine did) - so it's not the worst thing in the world. But I'd slap on the new ones and call it a day.

FWIW - I used a Powerstop cross-drilled set once on my '13 4Runner, and really didn't get anything great from them - and blew through them very quickly. Went back to OEM for the next brake job, and stayed with OEM through this GX (as you know - same brakes as T4R). New OEM rotors and pads will "bite" very well when compared to a worn-out set (always impressed when new OEM pads/rotors go on, and I bed them in - hold your hat!) - but heat/fade and glazing is a thing if you brake aggressively at high speeds or tow. And you can always sand down the glaze on overheated rotors and restore most of that "new rotor bite" performance.

 

I’m going to give them a try - it’s this version and the rotors are pretty heavy….haven’t unboxed them yet.

https://www.powerstop.com/product/po...z36-brake-kit/

Ill keep my lexus rotors and pad shims just in case and measure the wear.

 

I gave up on resurfacing 20 years or so ago for those same issues

 

"12 GX 460 Premium (Fire Agate Pearl / black interior) - 85k miles "
Yeah, but 85k in 12 years? its not like you have to do your brakes often

 

👍 A good reminder… I think I have 87k miles now :-)

 

Hello fellow gx-ers:

I need a little more assistance, as I am unable to remove the front driver side caliper to remove and replace the rotor on my 2019 gx.

I’ve tried to watch several videos on brake/rotor changes but they go a bit fast for me to really see which bolts to remove. Also some say on the videos that they are removing two 17mm bolts to remove caliper to access the rotor.

I see two 17mm on top and bottom of caliper that I could remove - but they aren’t the ones mounting the caliper (or should I say caliper bracket?). There are two 19mm iirc that appear to be the caliper bracket bolts needing removal. See pic below. Problem is I can’t get these to budge with breaker bar or my power tools (Milwaukee m12 tools).

I would appreciate any guidance. If I can’t remove the caliper/bracket to access the factory rotor, I’m going to pad slap them for now🤣. The factory rotors seem to be at 32mm per my digital measurements assuming I am measuring correctly. I may be measuring wrong b/c new rotors are 32mm and I have roughly 4 to 5 mm left on front pads. Doesn’t make sense that rotors still are at 32mm.

Thanks in advance! Happy labor day.

 

Here are the 17mm bolts below bleeder. (Only top one shown in this pic). Can get these out - but don’t think caliper comes off with these removed.

 

Your first picture is correct the 19mm bolts are holding the caliper. They are torqued down significantly so they require force to remove. Try turning the steering wheel and you need a long breaker bar

 

... the two bolts that attach the Caliper to the Steering Knuckle are obvious ... apply PB Blaster the day before attempting removal ... my 2019 GX required a 450 ft-lb air impact gun to remove ... I swear Toyota used red locktite on these things ... have never before experienced this with more 4-Runners than I can count ... sometimes alternating between the tightening direction and loosening direction will break the threads free ...

 

I think you're right about these bolts. The torque spec is 136ftlbs. While they are resuable, I have new ones and they have a very light pink coating on the threads, could be some for of loctite. I long breaker bar worked well for me.

 

Do not mess with these ... they hold the two caliper halves together ...

 

oops…too late. I took one or two out when caliper was still mounted. Put them right back on after confirming it didn’t release the caliper.

What issue might I expect? Torque spec for those 17mm? I’ll double check.

 

I almost bought air compressor and gun…my Milwaukee m12 should have easily removed. I ended up getting a 20v 1/2 impact gun from walmart on clearance for $47.

After many attempts with penetrating lube, breaker bar, m12 impact tools and the walmart one rated at 300 or 350ft lb removal, i got them off.

Never have I seen anything like this for a simple caliper removal. Omg. I was up till 4am.

I have to say the power stop kit is pretty good on the test drive and bedding in process.

Attempting rears now.

My back is killing me though…

 

agree ... "resurfacing is not resurfacing" ... all are not the same ... a qualified machine shop knows what they are doing in terms of cut rate to minimize imposing induced stress ... with most parts shops and independent shops having absolutely no clue. Not worth the resulting rotor warping with braking heat cycles as the induced machining stress is released ... the cost difference vs. going new rotors is is a rounding error over the life of the brake job.