Yea - I was afraid of that. I have a history of making ebrakes worse after I remove/adjust them......

 

Yup. I know the feeling. I would guess that there wouldn't be any adjustment at he pedal, but u never know.

 

Is there a DIY (that I can't find) to replace the read brake pads on a 2014 GX460? I found one for the front brakes (see below) but am not sure how the rear brake job would differ.

 

Odd door lights.

mislabled video for front brakes.

 

I have used a simple C-clamp in the past to compress the piston.

 

I went forward with the brake job without a DIY. The job was very simple. After the wheel was off the car (which is a great time to thoroughly clean the inside of the wheel) all you need to do is remove the lower caliper bolt. You may need a little lubricant spray to free this bolt up which is 17mm. There were no wires to remove like I saw in some DIY's for similar Lexus and Toyota brake jobs. Then swing the caliper up and wiggle out the pads. When swinging it observe the brake line so that you do not stress it. I held the caliper up with one hand (watching the brake line) while pulling out and replacing the pad with the other. You just need to wiggle and angle it a little. I also chose not to replace any of the clips that were supplied with the new pads. When I did this job with my other vehicle I put the one clip in not exactly right which caused it to rub against the rotor top (= bad noise). So I had to go back in and correct that.

I used a c-clamp with a small thin piece of wood on the piston side. I also took the top off the brake master cylinder to ease the pressure. When I was turning the clamp my helper did not notice any rise in the fluid level in the master cylinder so there was no need to remove any fluid to make room for the new thick pads. On the second wheel I did not even bother to remove the top of the master cylinder. The turning of the clamp was only a little harder but no problem.

Don't forget to apply a little stuff (I forget the name) to the ends of the back side of all the pads to eliminate any squeaking. And also you may want to clean the rotors if you are not replacing them. Mine looked like they were 9.5 out of 10 and I never felt and pulsing so I did not replace them. I used brake cleaner and a scotch brite pad to clean them. I could not get to the back side though because of the backing piece that I chose not to remove.

The pads, Autozone Gold Ceramic cost ne a total of $28. The dealer wanted $330 to do the job and that did not include new rotors. I use these pads in my Corvette and am very satisfied with their performance.

 

Brake grease goes on the back and on the moving parts (slide pins) and optionally, brake paste goes on the edges to prevent squeaking. I use the MB brake paste and buying a single tube is a lifetime supply .

Do you have the torque value for the caliper bolts or you just hand tightened it?

 

Hand tight. I made it 'tight' just like it was when I took it off. I estimated the tightness. IMO close enough.

 

Hi. While I know most of us are busy watching the Super Bowl pregame I was hoping I could get an answer and/or opinion on this one on my 2017 with 750 miles -

I backed it out of my driveway, came to a complete stop, put it in "D" and the slip light came on and the brake pedal shuddered (we are completely dry here - no snow/ice/etc.). It lasted only a couple of seconds and was wondering if anyone else experienced this before.

Now, since I am paranoid, I hear a clicking sound coming from the brake/behind the floor area in the below situation -

1. start the vehicle - radio is not on so complete silence, other than that great initial roar
2. place in "D"
3. a few feet down the road a 'clicking' sound can be heard. It is only a singe/double click
4. during the rest of the drive no click, no shudder from starts and stops or shifting from park to "D" or "R"
5. shudder has not re-occurred
6. as a test I did to go various parking lots and tried to see if the vehicle would do the shudder again and no
7. however, the clicking is re-occurring on every time there is an initial start-up and shifting into "D"

Now, from a search I saw the LS's have this sound for the ABS self-check (also found Nissan's and others do this as well) and was wondering if that is the sound I am experiencing. Or perhaps (after another search) it could be an actuator issue? Maybe since the above mentioned issue I am a bit more sensitive to a sound that was already there. Or maybe not? My ES and RX never did this, nor the wife's ct200h. I only have 750 miles on the thing and would be really pissed if I have to take it in for some kind of service already. I rarely use the radio since I just like silence when I drive (or periodically jamming to the Guardians of the Galaxy soundtrack)

Anyone have some thoughts? If it is a self-check on the ABS then that is just peachy and fine; but the slip light I am concerned about as well. I don't want to take it in for service this early in the game if either issue is nothing to be concerned about.

Thanks in advance.

Eric & Vader

 

This...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...n-incline.html

Not sure about the paranoid click

 

I just got a 2010 GX460 and this is the first thing that I noticed. I drive in stop and go traffic and my foot has actually been getting tired from having to press so far onto the break pedal to make sure the car doesn't move. Huge difference from a 2007 GX470. Did anyone find a fix for this to make the brakes more "sensitive?"

 

It may be the nature of the beast as I do notice more pedal travel than I am accustomed to. You may also want to get your brake fluid flushed if higher mileage. These aren't going to give you a magic bullet fix but may help.

 

I don't know if this is because i was going from a performance car (s4) to this SUV but i noticed the brake issue with my 2017 as well. It creeps forward unless I firmly press the break all the way through. Much more travel, I think this is something I just need to get used to.

 

I noticed this too on my 2010. I stop, foot on brake, then after a few second it creeps up. I recall that most of these times I either have AC on or on AUTO which could rev the engine a bit higher when it kicks in. I'm going to turn off AC and see.

 

I'm pretty annoyed by the 'creep" in my 2014 too but love the truck too much to get rid of it.

Planning to do a front and rear rotor and pad swap with the Powerstop kit as well as switch the brakes lines to stainless steel. If that doesn't solve the problem then nothing will. I'll update this thread with my results in a couple weeks.