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Anyhow any progress? Do the 2 strokes flicker in drl or high ? Please post or send pics-and do You ntend to fix the 2 strokes with a vled kit of some kind? Or a whole new set -what kit is it thx close to buying 2 stroke need to know tgx
IF it was me, i would not get the morimotos. they sell something supposedly working at 6v, which maybe it does "work", but not with our PWM. Then they sell an antiflicker box (a 10 cent cap) and it doesnt help, then they say designed that way.
You can move the DRL position for about 30$ in 30 minutes, then you can use any regular LED without flicker. I showed something similar (although a more complex version) earlier. I could take some pics and make a how to just for moving the DRLs.
From: From Oakland to Sactown, the Bay Area & backdown
Originally Posted by Acrad35751
I had thought about getting some of these for my VLEDs but don't these decoders simply make the DRLs (High beams) simply run at full brightness?
My apologies, dropped off this topic, old lady's hormones raging with this pregnancy, got few death stares between holidays and family visiting didn't have enough time, also probably too late now since you already got your vleds, took them out and went back to stock bulbs. I think they did, If I remember correctly the light spread was bad in high beam vs stock bulb much more contained. Since ebay seller didn't wan them back I might give it another try just to remember why took them out lol
From: From Oakland to Sactown, the Bay Area & backdown
Originally Posted by John00
Amber would be different. Take a rely and wire it to turn on an LED amber signal in that position when the signal is off, powered by IGN. Add a resistor if needed on the source signal side for your flasher circuit. Then you should be good to go, amber steady on with IGN until you turn on the signals, then it should blink OFF and ON instead of then usual ON and OFF. Sounds interesting.
thanks for info, I'll hate splicing wires but I do like the look of DRL's of GX 470, gives it more of a truck like appearance imo..gonna see if sourcing couple turn signal bulb sockets and running wiring from trailer wiring is a feasible option so I don't stress out about braking turn signals on or running out of time and not finishing
btw rgb leds turned out complete garbage, one started changing color on its own..sometimes it would put itself in strobe mode of red and blue..not good.
My apologies, dropped off this topic, old lady's hormones raging with this pregnancy, got few death stares between holidays and family visiting didn't have enough time, also probably too late now since you already got your vleds, took them out and went back to stock bulbs. I think they did, If I remember correctly the light spread was bad in high beam vs stock bulb much more contained. Since ebay seller didn't wan them back I might give it another try just to remember why took them out lol
FWIW, I have the Morimotos and when you trigger the high beams it's downright impressive. I have no issues with the beam pattern and the "throw" is very good. I've had non-car people passengers comment on the high beams when I flip them on. In no way are they cheap Chinese LEDs that just blast light ineffectively
thanks for info, I'll hate splicing wires but I do like the look of DRL's of GX 470, gives it more of a truck like appearance imo..gonna see if sourcing couple turn signal bulb sockets and running wiring from trailer wiring is a feasible option so I don't stress out about braking turn signals on or running out of time and not finishing
btw rgb leds turned out complete garbage, one started changing color on its own..sometimes it would put itself in strobe mode of red and blue..not good.
I dont think you need to use the trailer wiring or splice if you get the setup i recommended. It looks like this:
it's an inline placement. for what you want, all you'd need to do is cut part of this, then insert the relay and connect the relay.
i havent drawn it out, but it looks like an hour job tops
From: From Oakland to Sactown, the Bay Area & backdown
Originally Posted by lionsfan54
FWIW, I have the Morimotos and when you trigger the high beams it's downright impressive. I have no issues with the beam pattern and the "throw" is very good. I've had non-car people passengers comment on the high beams when I flip them on. In no way are they cheap Chinese LEDs that just blast light ineffectively
From: From Oakland to Sactown, the Bay Area & backdown
Originally Posted by John00
I dont think you need to use the trailer wiring or splice if you get the setup i recommended. It looks like this:
it's an inline placement. for what you want, all you'd need to do is cut part of this, then insert the relay and connect the relay.
i havent drawn it out, but it looks like an hour job tops
FWIW, I have the Morimotos and when you trigger the high beams it's downright impressive. I have no issues with the beam pattern and the "throw" is very good. I've had non-car people passengers comment on the high beams when I flip them on. In no way are they cheap Chinese LEDs that just blast light ineffectively
can you take some pics of the beam pattern against a garage door maybe 2 ft away, drl, low and low&high on?
id like to get an idea of the different outputs it has with and without the HIDs
for just highs and no DRL, i recommend the hikari philips, but for the DRL maybe the 2 stroke 2.0 is the one to get?
i recommend the hikaris for the better beam pattern, lower price and increased brightness, but for those not wanting to go without drl or move drl, the 2.0 so far sounds like the best option
there might be a newer version even thats brighter. note that these are brighter than the stock incandescents.
also, because these are switchbacks, when used as designed they will have about a 1/4 second delay each pulse due to the chip determining the mode. most people dont notice it, some do. i think it helps.
i havent thought about how this would work if the logic was reversed to be on amber all the time, then cycle off-on when turning. one thing that most likely would happen is that when turning they would be opposite state of the side view mirror markers. i think that would be helpful as well.
there might be a newer version even thats brighter. note that these are brighter than the stock incandescents.
also, because these are switchbacks, when used as designed they will have about a 1/4 second delay each pulse due to the chip determining the mode. most people dont notice it, some do. i think it helps.
i havent thought about how this would work if the logic was reversed to be on amber all the time, then cycle off-on when turning. one thing that most likely would happen is that when turning they would be opposite state of the side view mirror markers. i think that would be helpful as well.
Thanks John I figured with this configuration headlight blinker would be off, or with the bulbs you posted white while mirror and rear is on.and back to orange when mirror and rear are off..what about the wiring harness you posted. can I buy it ?
Thanks John I figured with this configuration headlight blinker would be off, or with the bulbs you posted white while mirror and rear is on.and back to orange when mirror and rear are off..what about the wiring harness you posted. can I buy it ?
if you buy whats in that pic, you get the bulbs with resistors, MIGHT get some small round tightening spacers (dont really need them), and you get the harness needed for regular use. the harness thats included will only be a power wire that connects to both bulbs. they have an extra wire for the white, which could go to the wiper RR with a tapafuse. this means the whites will be on when the GX has IGN, and when turning they will flash amber and off, amber when the mirrors are lit.
if you mean a harness to invert, there's nothing ready made. if you mean an extension harness, you might need to connect together a plug and socket, aliexpress or amazon, although that kit includes one so most likely you mean for inversion.
to invert with that kit above, you will only need a relay and some wire.
Note: for many powered coils, it is beneficial to add a diode in parallel to discharge when disconnecting. small might not be as important, but these can be seen on AC clutch connectors and some solenoids.
im not sure exactly which option you want but if what I wrote doesnt cover it, lets hear what you really want to do.
heres two configs, one standard and one inverting. the additional relay will add additional delay, but not much and most likely wont be noticed.
what this should do is the amber is always on with ign, until turning. when turning and the mirror marker is on, the relay activates, breaks the circuit, and the amber goes off. the white is not used in this case.
there are other methods but this uses whats already been discussed.
as always try on the bench first. if you put the resistor on the other side of the relay, it will be powered all the time and get hot hot hot.
and another note, if the GX uses the GND to switch, instead of the + (which could be the case, many areas of Japanese circuitry are like this), then there will need to be some slight changes.
Based on this it looks like it is the + that switches, so what's above should be good as long as you plug in the connector the correct way.
As an added bonus, you can also put these in the rear, and then run up another reverse wire, and you get 4 reverse lights instead of 2. When in reverse, the rear turns shine white.
