About to do my pre-winter 5k oil change and it would be way easier to just change the oil. With recent videos from the motor oil geek, he proves that a used air filter is more efficient than a new one. It makes sense. He recently did his Tundra break in oil change without changing the filter. Less, miles I know, but makes sense! I'm wondering if I should just keep my existing filter at 5k and change every 10k (every second oil change). Thoughts? The filters never look really bad when I take them out. No towing, off-road, etc.

 

... I do both every 6,000 miles, but see no problem going every other on the oil filter since 10,000 miles is the Lexus recommended interval for both.

Yes, dropping the front skid is a PITA ... way easier for me since I removed the front hooks with a dremel cutoff wheel, and use a motorcycle floor jack to lower / raise the skid. Use this method on GX since the TRD aluminum skid on the FJ (that has no hooks) weighs a ton, so requires the motorcycle lift.

 

On one hand the oem filter is capable of running 10k OCIs, on the other hand is if I have to access to the oil drain plug, why not change the $5 oil filter at each oci thats located a foot away.

 

I started changing the oil filter at every other oil change. I personally think changing the oil at lower intervals is far more important than a brand new filter at an extended intervals.

Some manufacturers in the owners manual actually recommend only changing the oil filter "every other" change. It's probably not ideal, but I'm at peace with it. More just out of expediency than anything. It's one of the messier filters to change in my experience. I long for the days of traditional, spin on disposable oil filters that are in easy spots to change.

 

Yes, exactly. How many times I struggle with those s-hooks! I put the truck on ramps, but still a PITA to work with that skid plate and now that's it's colder here in Toronto, was thinking to save some time that isn't necessary. Good idea with the motorcycle floor jack. Looked that up and may be a good option and remove those hooks. Sometimes it seems a little sketchy when I'm retightening the skid plate bolts. I want them snug, but sometimes feel the on and off with them, one time I may cross thread one or strip it....Then I'll be running around skidless.

 

For exactly what ASE mentioned, struggling with the front skid plate and probably does add another 15 minutes of time that maybe I can save for something that doesn't matter. Get under, remove the drain skid port plate, open fumoto, refill, done. But actually, now that I think of it, not removing the filter does keep more of the old oil in there... Shucks...

 

Sorry guys, should have done a multi-quote.

I agree with you BradTank, I have replaced that filter several times and don't see it very dirty. The biggest benefit of an oil change is getting the fuel dilution out of there, moisture and fresh lubricant. Biggest risk with the filter would be bypass when running at temp, but then again not removing the filter does keep a little bit more of the old oil in there, probably would say .25L?

 

... re: cross-threading ... the factory puts an extremely happy impact gun on the skid bolts ... does not feel like initial stiction to break free. When first removed, I apply anti-sieze on the bolt threads ... for better feel when starting the threads, and for easier removal the next time ... and do not over-tighten.

 

Not the changing the filter when changing the oil is a new one for me. I would never do it, nor suggest it.

 

Honda advocates the every other oil change fwiw

 

Yeah, could be because filters become more efficient as they are used.

 

I have always believed this too. As filter is covered with more particles, it's more difficult for other particles to pass through filter media. That was my amateur theory at least. I love the Motor Oil Geek, but didn't see the video where he concluded this as well.

Of course, at the extreme, it's not good if resistance is so high it triggers filters bypass feature. At what point in time that occurs....who knows? But unlikely between 5,000 and 10,000 miles. However, I would add if you're changing to a higher detergent oil, or the "molecular" level cleaning oil, Valvoline's Restore & Protect of which I'm a big fan), I would, initially at least, change the oil filter MORE frequently. I changed oil filter after 400 miles on Restore & Protect in sn old XC90 v8, and filter pleats already had significant sludge/varnish.

 

i wouldnt call more restrictive more efficient. same as an air filter. it gets better entrapment % as it ages up to a point. it actually gets a lower flow with the same pressure. thats usually considered worse efficiency although it is working better.
recent oil filters (the actual filter paper) are made of plastic, every other oil change is ok as long as you dont exceed the wear line life of the plastic.
theres a thread on filter cutouts so no more messing with the plate. can diy with a cutter and a couple nuts & bolts. or can buy a nice one.

 

Don't quite follow you here.

I ended up doing the oil change today and dropped the front skid plate (easy if you get up on 4 ramps) and glad I did. I would say there's about .2 qt of oil that comes out with that filter. After only 4k miles this summer, oil was pretty dark and once I did everything and got to pouring the old oil back into containers, I noticed it was pretty thick at the bottom of the pan. Can't imagine going 10k miles! Yuk!

 

should have said wear life, not wear line. meaning that as long as the plastic doesnt degrade then the filter is still ok to use. it will restrict more as it collects particles. so less efficient from a conventional perspective, but more effective at trapping particles as it gets more clogged up.

heres a pic of an aftermarket plate with a cutout https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...l#post10305535 thts an example of a 'nice' one.

heres an example of a diy using a cutter to make the hole and welding some nuts on the back, then using a small plate to cover the hole.