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What the user ended up doing in the post above in the end was using zip ties daisy chained to pull the inside fender liner back quite a ways. I did that when I put 265/70r17 on mine. Until I cut the sidesteps off to install sliders and then the offending bolt went away with the sidesteps
I'd love a true real non-zip tie low profile bolt solution. I read that topic and saw no such thing existing. So it'll come down to me fixing my own problem with my own redneck solution that doesn't invoke zip ties.
I'd love a true real non-zip tie low profile bolt solution. I read that topic and saw no such thing existing. So it'll come down to me fixing my own problem with my own redneck solution that doesn't invoke zip ties.
Not sure if these will work but I use bolts with low profile heads, they are called assembly bolts, they are usually 1/4"-20 but you can also get a metric version
I'd love a true real non-zip tie low profile bolt solution. I read that topic and saw no such thing existing. So it'll come down to me fixing my own problem with my own redneck solution that doesn't invoke zip ties.
Redneck, did you call my name?
You can use a heat gun on the front liner. The one attached to the sidesteps to the rear not so much, you can't get there from here with a heat gun.
That is why so many are looking for a solution. On my first attempt I used a thick sheet rock screw with a lower profile head than the one above. It was flush with the liner and thought I had it for a couple of days. Used a large diameter screw to fill the insert that I reused.
Like many that thought they had it resolved sometimes at full lock mainly when going over holes or different levels of pavement in town I would get the rub. And it is embarrassing loud, was that really me?! Yep. For some depending on tire size a flathead is all it takes for every situation. In my case and some others it isn't enough.
Really didn't want to do the zip ties and my next thought was a turnbuckle and\or allthread rod. But knew it was a temporary solution for me plus didn't want to have metal hanging down there to get ripped off with someone behind me. The zip ties made more sense in my case and maybe overall long term they would be a safe bet. But being a retired Navy Chief Machinist Mate I am going to over build and over engineer everything.
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I carry 175 lb. rated 24" commercial electrical zip ties in my hunting vest in case I need to get the dog out of a Conibear trap. And cable cutters for snares. I buy the zip ties by the 10 pack but only carry 2 pairs of 2 so I had some sitting around. I didn't have to daisy chain a bunch of those little weakling ties together and no one is going to see them anyhow unless they climb under the vehicle. They did work great and when I pulled back on the first one was able to pull the whole assembly back more than an inch with little effort.
Still not a great solution in my mind and environment. How are they going to handle twenties below zero and colder? Rocks and logs getting kicked up at them? My thought was likely not so great long term and wasn't sad to see them go when I cut the sidesteps off. If the flathead bolt\screw doesn't work and still get rubbing not sure what a more elegant solution is. Some cut the corner section off and that was not an option I was willing to entertain.
You can use a heat gun on the front liner. The one attached to the sidesteps to the rear not so much, you can't get there from here with a heat gun.
That is why so many are looking for a solution. On my first attempt I used a thick sheet rock screw with a lower profile head than the one above. It was flush with the liner and thought I had it for a couple of days. Used a large diameter screw to fill the insert that I reused.
Like many that thought they had it resolved sometimes at full lock mainly when going over holes or different levels of pavement in town I would get the rub. And it is embarrassing loud, was that really me?! Yep. For some depending on tire size a flathead is all it takes for every situation. In my case and some others it isn't enough.
Really didn't want to do the zip ties and my next thought was a turnbuckle and\or allthread rod. But knew it was a temporary solution for me plus didn't want to have metal hanging down there to get ripped off with someone behind me. The zip ties made more sense in my case and maybe overall long term they would be a safe bet. But being a retired Navy Chief Machinist Mate I am going to over build and over engineer everything.
[
I carry 175 lb. rated 24" commercial electrical zip ties in my hunting vest in case I need to get the dog out of a Conibear trap. And cable cutters for snares. I buy the zip ties by the 10 pack but only carry 2 pairs of 2 so I had some sitting around. I didn't have to daisy chain a bunch of those little weakling ties together and no one is going to see them anyhow unless they climb under the vehicle. They did work great and when I pulled back on the first one was able to pull the whole assembly back more than an inch with little effort.
Still not a great solution in my mind and environment. How are they going to handle twenties below zero and colder? Rocks and logs getting kicked up at them? My thought was likely not so great long term and wasn't sad to see them go when I cut the sidesteps off. If the flathead bolt\screw doesn't work and still get rubbing not sure what a more elegant solution is. Some cut the corner section off and that was not an option I was willing to entertain.
Then again...
My front liner doesn't exist. LOL. I just need the problem bolt for the running boards replaced. Might try and find what IanG suggested. Hopefully a matching thread pattern is easy enough to find.
My front liner doesn't exist. LOL. I just need the problem bolt for the running boards replaced. Might try and find what IanG suggested. Hopefully a matching thread pattern is easy enough to find.
You are going to want black oxide I assume otherwise it will stick out like a sore thumb with silver like the picture above. It was a #14 screw that I first used so ~1/4" dia but of course original must be metric, 6 or 7mm.
These should work well if you don't mind going non metric and making your own threads on the way in.
Then again you would have 50 of the damn things sitting around. If it was me and just filling the hole I would use a 1/4" black nylon shield retainer from the hardware store. I have better luck finding them at hardware stores than automotive stores
And then you would have 100 of them for $7 LOL. Hardware stores usually sell them individually or at least small packets. Pretty common so might find those in an auto parts store.
You are going to want black oxide I assume otherwise it will stick out like a sore thumb with silver like the picture above. It was a #14 screw that I first used so ~1/4" dia but of course original must be metric, 6 or 7mm.
These should work well if you don't mind going non metric and making your own threads on the way in.
Then again you would have 50 of the damn things sitting around. If it was me and just filling the hole I would use a 1/4" black nylon shield retainer from the hardware store. I have better luck finding them at hardware stores than automotive stores
And then you would have 100 of them for $7 LOL. Hardware stores usually sell them individually or at least small packets. Pretty common so might find those in an auto parts store.
Any option is on the table. I'm almost tempted to see if some VHB 3M double stick tape could also be a solution thus removing the need for a bolt altogether.
Any option is on the table. I'm almost tempted to see if some VHB 3M double stick tape could also be a solution thus removing the need for a bolt altogether.
Yah sure you betcha, doesn't everyone have a roll of VHB tape in their engineering junk drawer? I do.
and if you apply it first (after a good cleaning of the surfaces first of course) the repair isn't going anywhere, ever. They also sell it in sponge packs but it is much cheaper to buy the liquid bottles.
Yah sure you betcha, doesn't everyone have a roll of VHB tape in their engineering junk drawer? I do.
If you aren't aware 3M sells 4298UV Adhesion Promoter - Tape Primer and if you apply it first (after a good cleaning of the surfaces first of course) the repair isn't going anywhere, ever. They also sell it in sponge packs but it is much cheaper to buy the liquid bottles.
I'd love a true real non-zip tie low profile bolt solution. I read that topic and saw no such thing existing. So it'll come down to me fixing my own problem with my own redneck solution that doesn't invoke zip ties.
I was also hoping for a non-zip tie solution, which I mostly achieved, but ended up using a couple ties for the final connection to the stock running boards (just to get it done).
I replaced the stock screw and plastic clip with a 1/4-20 truss head screw I had lying around. Secured with a flat washer and nut on backside of fender liner.
Using a nylon coated stainless loop-to-loop lanyard and a 1/4" stud ring terminal, I made a loop-to-eye lanyard about 18" long. These can also be purchased as loop-to-eye from the get go, but then length can't be fine tuned. Might work just fine, though.
Put the ring terminal end of the lanyard over the exposed 1/4-20 truss screw from backside of fender liner and secured with a lock washer and second nut.
Loosely secured the loop end of the lanyard to the stock running board bracket with a zip-tie, and while pushing in the fender liner (hard), tightened the zip-tie. Added a second zip tie for good luck.
Last edited by mtnco; Mar 27, 2024 at 08:34 PM.
Reason: Adding the original quoted post
I was also hoping for a non-zip tie solution, which I mostly achieved, but ended up using a couple ties for the final connection to the stock running boards (just to get it done).
I replaced the stock screw and plastic clip with a 1/4-20 truss head screw I had lying around. Secured with a flat washer and nut on backside of fender liner.
Using a nylon coated stainless loop-to-loop lanyard and a 1/4" stud ring terminal, I made a loop-to-eye lanyard about 18" long. These can also be purchased as loop-to-eye from the get go, but then length can't be fine tuned. Might work just fine, though.
Put the ring terminal end of the lanyard over the exposed 1/4-20 truss screw from backside of fender liner and secured with a lock washer and second nut.
Loosely secured the loop end of the lanyard to the stock running board bracket with a zip-tie, and while pushing in the fender liner (hard), tightened the zip-tie. Added a second zip tie for good luck.
I like the use of a SS cable, much better than plastic zip ties. And looking at it made me realize that they do make stainless steel zip ties as well.
I use 4 Stainless Steel zip ties every Spring which hold the arm rests down on the back of my buggy for carrying a squad in & on my buggy.
I use eyebolts screwed into the bottom of the cross brace and eyebolts in Polaris lock and ride inserts. The SS zip ties secure them so that they don't risk popping out when towing down the highway.
A different angle of them. That is an AyA 16 ga. No. 2 on the rack in the back of the buggy. For the rest of us it was a Winchester type day getting practice rounds in before the Duluth Double Gun SxS Classic.
Then in the Fall use dikes to cut them off and put the dog box on for bird season. Rinse and repeat each year.
I need to pick up another package of them at HD in the electrical section so I can set the buggy up for shooting Sporting Clays in a few weeks once the snow is gone. With SS zip ties and SS cables I would think that solution would be a permanent fix. On the other hand plastic is going to last awhile, not sure how long, but in some cases likely long enough.
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