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Well, seems the door lock actuator went out and broke on my passenger side door. Looking through mylparts seems Toyota uses the same door lock which is plagued with this issue on RX350s and Highlanders (69030-42230)...
A bit annoying that this is a very known problem and Lexus still uses the same problematic actuator on all their vehicles. Especially an F performance vehicle.
Will report back if everything is 1:1 with the ample amount of information available from RX and Highlander owners.
Oddly enough seems like the door lock actuator is about to go on my 2002 IS300, some days it works, other days it doesn't. This potential is an issue with vehicles that are located in humid locations, and the actuator motor doesn't appear to be the most resilient to humidity.
For anyone that happens to be out of warranty, or lives too far away to bother dropping their car off at the dealer for the replacement of a $8 part. I attached pictures along with some small steps on how to DIY a very simple operation.
This process is identical for practically every Toyota/Lexus vehicle. I took some pictures for the GS series in the event anyone has to handle this for their GS-F.
Parts:
Amazon - 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine
Amazon - AP Products 018-3163810 Weather Stripping-3/16 x 3/8" x 10'
Process:
Watch a youtube video to get familiar with taking a door card off, or someone performing said task on a GS, LX, or GX
Pry window/door lock panel from door card, use plastic pry tool or flat head screwdriver with microfiber cloth covering tip. Pry at area shown.
Disconnect door/window lock controller, use flat head if required to disconnect harness - and set aside in your car
Remove 10mm hex head bolt connecting door card to door
Use plastic trim tool to pry off plastic cover behind door lock latch, to expose screw - remove screw connecting door card to door
Use plastic trim tool and remove carper that lines the bottom of the hand rest cubby hole - remove screw connecting door card to door
In total we have removed all screws connecting the door card to the door
Gently, pull from bottom of door card to loosen door card from the door - always start from the bottom once a corner is loose use pry tool to gain leverage and work around door card to loosed from door do not attempt to loose near the window
Once door card is loose, you should be able to disconnect bottom puddle light, Memory seats, and door lock power sensor - disconnect 3 harnesses total, and 2 mechanical steel wires connected to the door handle
Gently pry UP to unseat the door card from the window frame, once door card is free set aside safely
Gently peel yellow/white fog/dampness film using plastic pry tool or razor blade to cut the butane adhesive, heating this up will be necessary if it is too cold.
Peel back arms reach of film
Reach up and feel for a metallic rod that comes down vertically from the exterior door handle, unseat if from a small plastic through-hole cup
Remove 2 bolts holding window guide rail
Remove 3 Torx bits holding door actuator to door (T25 torx)
Remove door lock actuator assembly, along with the 2 connecting wires
Now is the hard part... remove all screws clamping the assembly together, then with clever usage of guitar picks, and screwdrivers unclamp the clamp shell
Next, replace the cheap broken motor
Clamp and bolt it back together
Remove all old weather seal around metal bracket, install new weather seal
For anyone that happens to be out of warranty, or lives too far away to bother dropping their car off at the dealer for the replacement of a $8 part. I attached pictures along with some small steps on how to DIY a very simple operation.
This process is identical for practically every Toyota/Lexus vehicle. I took some pictures for the GS series in the event anyone has to handle this for their GS-F.
Parts:
Amazon - 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine
Amazon - AP Products 018-3163810 Weather Stripping-3/16 x 3/8" x 10'
Process:
Watch a youtube video to get familiar with taking a door card off, or someone performing said task on a GS, LX, or GX
Pry window/door lock panel from door card, use plastic pry tool or flat head screwdriver with microfiber cloth covering tip. Pry at area shown.
Disconnect door/window lock controller, use flat head if required to disconnect harness - and set aside in your car
Remove 10mm hex head bolt connecting door card to door
Use plastic trim tool to pry off plastic cover behind door lock latch, to expose screw - remove screw connecting door card to door
Use plastic trim tool and remove carper that lines the bottom of the hand rest cubby hole - remove screw connecting door card to door
In total we have removed all screws connecting the door card to the door
Gently, pull from bottom of door card to loosen door card from the door - always start from the bottom once a corner is loose use pry tool to gain leverage and work around door card to loosed from door do not attempt to loose near the window
Once door card is loose, you should be able to disconnect bottom puddle light, Memory seats, and door lock power sensor - disconnect 3 harnesses total, and 2 mechanical steel wires connected to the door handle
Gently pry UP to unseat the door card from the window frame, once door card is free set aside safely
Gently peel yellow/white fog/dampness film using plastic pry tool or razor blade to cut the butane adhesive, heating this up will be necessary if it is too cold.
Peel back arms reach of film
Reach up and feel for a metallic rod that comes down vertically from the exterior door handle, unseat if from a small plastic through-hole cup
Remove 2 bolts holding window guide rail
Remove 3 Torx bits holding door actuator to door (T25 torx)
Remove door lock actuator assembly, along with the 2 connecting wires
Now is the hard part... remove all screws clamping the assembly together, then with clever usage of guitar picks, and screwdrivers unclamp the clamp shell
Next, replace the cheap broken motor
Clamp and bolt it back together
Remove all old weather seal around metal bracket, install new weather seal
Back in 2003 I had an Infiniti G35. Did not like that car, but that's another story. At the time, my wife liked to slam the door when exiting the vehicle. I asked her not too, but my pleading fell on deaf ears. Over time the passenger side window motor went out. I took the door apart and made her come out the the garage at stages while I was dismantling and reassembling. After that she was more more careful If there's one thing a absolutely can't stand are folks who slam doors, the trunk or the hood. Absolutely no need for such behavior. When I hear it happen I
Lou
Last edited by flowrider; Aug 29, 2020 at 02:50 PM.
Did you test the motor? Any idea how the motor fails? Just curious because I am sure the replacement isn't much different than the original, and it would be helpful to know if I need to buy a couple of these things and stash them in my spares bin because they'll be a regular wear item.
I did hook the motor up to my bench powersupply ran 12v and 14v to it, it would pause, build up amperage, and actuate slightly then seize up. It's a normal 12v stepper motor, I tried to take apart the oem one to see if maybe the brushes were making bad contact with the rotating magnetic assembly.
The ECU doesnt run a constant 12v to these, I believe it does a brief 12v signal then checks lock position and turns off that relay/switch.
But for the price, I bought 4-5 of those annoying little motors.
Beauty is, these motors will work on pretty much any Toyota. Worked in my IS300, and works in the GS-F. My best guess is humidity and dirt somehow accumulate in the motor over time, giving it bad contacts on the brushes, resulting in no actuation when the Body Control unit sends a brief 12v signal.
It's pretty hard to mess up the mechanical aspect of the actual actuator - since you never take off anything on it other than the tension wire connectors... Try using a flat head to trigger the mechanical lock/latch. Then pull on the tension wire to release it.
Ive had 3 go out on my 2013 GS. The dealer wanted $435 to replace one. I could buy 10 from ebay for that. Its a little intimidating at first but once I changed the first one I have no problem with it, pretty simple if you are patient. I was just worried about getting that goo from the plastic on my white door panel. My advise is wear gloves.
Toyota and Lexus Join Mille Miglia For The First Time
Slideshow: A five-car lineup spanning more than five decades of Toyota performance and engineering will tackle one of Italy's most celebrated automotive routes.
Infamous door lock actuator stops working.
If there's one thing a absolutely can't stand are folks who slam doors, the trunk or the hood. Absolutely no need for such behavior. When I hear it happen I
