Yes, but my fact point is, given the overall diameter does not change.

If the the overall diameter changes are made without exact calculation to those effect. You can not say the the acceleration effect is due to lighter wheels. If you compared the same exact wheel/tire diameter with the lighter wheel vs the much heavier wheel, then there would be an effect based or the gearing or roiling diameter.

There can also be a difference in tire weight also correct? There can be a diff in tire weights with both the same exact size and diff brands, as the same with a 18" tire vs a 19" tires weights. That's why just saying the wheels only affect, not considering tire diameter and weight is lol! to me.

 

His new setup has ~1cm greater outer diameter (so any improvement felt is certainly not gearing advantage), and he did list the tire weights.

 

Yes and looking at fact. That would be following lots of narrative to make a stretch the the wheel weights difference is the main contributing factor. The Tire diameter is about 1/2 inch plus difference, especially if the old tires had worn treads, vs new fat rubber thread. There is a tire weight difference and the tire sizes change rotation example results, clearly equals = Revolutions per mile of 766.07 vs 754.89. The sole wheel weight difference would be minimum to those other factors.

Really optimistic thinking to ignore that the Tire size and Tire weight diff would realistically be concluding to a result in a lot more get-up to it. Ignoring the Tire size a Weight diff impact. Let alone Brake rotor brands per rotor weight can vary 7% and 35% heavier depending on which you use per wheel.

The original post statement lends to tell others that a new Tire/Wheel combo, with a cost at a least $ 1800 plus on average for a decent set of light wheels and tires. Tire wheel upgrade could be $2500 even or more. Stating that it's a lower cost improvement than the stated performance mods (Headers/Tune) in that 1st post is just not so valid for this car. There are IS350's here on CL that have documented dynos, with 0-60 times as low as 4.3sec - 4.6sec with some Bolts on's only, not even including Headers on the car. For Reference of cost, you can buy Headers, and tune for as low as $1200 - $1400 both. Take a Header/Tune $1400 2GR engine car, ran against a $1800 plus ( wheels/tires), 2GR light wheel car. The Header Tune car walks away substantially every time. It's Not a few % gain. It can be as much as a 45h - 60hp gain. That's why I said it's a pass around, incorrect Narrative.

 

I think what the OP means is this.
Two identical motor vehicles on the same road.
The first vehicle has a light 10 lbs flywheel, while the second vehicle has a heavy 40 lbs flywheel etc.
The first vehicle will accelerate faster, brake harder with lower fuel consumption.

The downside?
If both identical vehicles coast down the same road at the same speed, the first vehicle with the lighter 10 lbs flywheel will slow down more quickly, because the 10 lbs flywheel with lower "mass" stores less "momentum".

Ditto if the identical vehicles have identical flywheels, but the second vehicle has the four wheel rims laden with self-adhesive lead weights, or the wheels and tires of identical dimensions, but one set of wheels is steel, while the other set of wheels is magnesium Mg alloy.
The four rims made of steel or alloy wheels laden with self-adhesive lead weights will act similar to a heavier flywheel - however, the flywheel cannot be detached from the engine, whereas the four heavier wheel rims can be detached from the engine via neutral N or a manual clutch.

Hence, before 2022, Formula 1 racing wheels were only 13" in diameter for lighter weight and the highest performance, heaviest braking and best fuel economy.
From 2022 onwards, Formula 1 racing wheels deliberately used heavier 18" diameters to make it more relevant to road vehicles, but the lap times were roughly 3.5 seconds slower for more competition!

Video: why the Formula 1 2022 tyres are slower but better (scuderiafans.com)

JDR76 is an engineer, so he will know much about "mass" and "momentum", and if he can chime in on this...

 

The BOLD was what is giving wheels way more than they are..... vs a Tune, Exhaust, and CAI cost. Especially if you buy the " lightest, strongest wheel" plus 19" good set of tires. Wheels alone can be $2500 not including the tires cost. My point was considering weight, incl Brake Rotor weight diff, Tire weight diff, and Diameter, would be inconclusive to make the claims of Performance mods vs wheels/tires cost and then conclude what was concluded?

Pete I do understand what you are saying, and already understood the weight effect but, hopefully my point of one considering all else as irrelevant is a far reach. Also far from a comparison conclusion. lol!

FYI: I run the lighter BBS wheels, lighter Cross Drilled Brake Rotors, and some Ti Lug Nuts, on my own GS350 already. Yes it is a nice upgrade..... but.

 

$2500? I mean you can spend that but you shouldn't have to, not unless you are going all out with this. I scored mine at absurdly low price but aside from those, about $250-400 ea should do it, though that is a wide range. But that range accommodates Weds SA-20R, various Konig/Enkei wheels, and some other contenders like Motegi MR158, just to pick on a couple. And the 19" ride, at least on DWS06-Plus in this size, is still fantastic (on stock AWD Lux suspension.) $2500 including the tires is probably right, all in.

Edit: I also recouped about $600 from my old wheels and tires, so that was a nice way to lower the overall expense in this. Heck, that would be enough for exhaust, especially used.

Let's also keep in mind this is unsprung weight, and in all ways, reducing that has benefits beyond just less total weight. Lexus knew this when they went with aluminum control arms and knuckles.

 

Great clip! You can see the rear dynamic steering working from that angle as well!

 

Thid comment made me re-watch it. Does it really have rear steer?

 

Yo!! Thank you, glad you like!!! I actually dont have rear steer though

 

No rear steer on my car

 

I consider wheels and tires to be one mod since Lexus never puts good tires from the factory unless it's an F car. If you're changing out your wheels you're likely changing tires, especially if the wheel sizes are different.

My stockish GS quarter mile with 30lb stock wheels and old crappy A/S snow tires.


Same road, same slope, just look at the graph. The biggest difference was new wheels and new tires, going from 245/40/18s to 255/35/18s in the rear. I think the new tires have a slightly smaller diameter but its negligible since the old tires were worn down and the new ones are well, new. I shaved over 10lbs per wheel/tire for a 40lb + weight loss.



Can you name ONE mod that shaves over half a second on the quarter mile AND improves braking AND improves cornering AND improves MPG AND might improve the looks of the car? New Enkei RPF1 and Michelin PS4S that I stole for $1200. I sold the tires (too narrow) for $650 and I sold my stocks for $800 so my new wheel setup was -$250. The PS4S that I wanted cost almost $800 meaning the entire setup was around $550 before install. Obviously this is not how it will be for everyone else cost wise, but my situation shows that it doesn't have to be very expensive.

My intake, exhaust, and tune was over $3000, and you don't want to know how much the headers cost. Wheels and Tires are 100% the best bang for buck you can do to these cars.

 

Come on now, different tires sizes (Snow Tires), but claiming exact same cause one set was worn? One set was wider too? lol! Also why is the Temp which can change performance alot, let alone the date? It's completely missing on the 2st Run??

Where was the subject braking, mpg, handling, blah, blah? I missed that part.

FYI: My Headers were $625, my CAI Intake was $250, my Tune was $500, my Intake Mani Port match Flow Benched was $325, my Port TB was $120. I have beat, and I mean Walked away from the start every IS350 and GS350 I have run in Atlanta MEXICO. I mean walked away.

Last one I ran was a 15 GS350 with Headers, CAI Intake, Ported Intake Mani, TB Port, Tune (diff one). This was one of my close friends GS350. He is a member here but does not post much. He recently had a accident and his 15 GS350 was totaled and not his fault. I know why my GS is faster and it's running lean up top. I need to finish some stuff up and get to a Dyno to Tune it past the D3 Performance canned Tune.

My friend with the 15 has very light 19" wheels vs my Stock Lexus RC F 19 wheels. We also both have lighten Unorthodox Racing Lighten Crank Pulley. The Lighten Pulley should = the lighten Drive train some almost the same effect. I know why my car is a bit faster than most but keep that to myself. I have shared every other Performance increase mod with everyone who ask. Again I remind everyone all the time that there are a few IS350's with Bolt On's only running 4.3 - 4.6sec, 0-60 times. Some are even here documented on CL. Ain't No way No wheels going to beat Performance engine Mods done right. In performance or cost. Sorry.

 

I didn't say it was the exact same, I said it was negligible. Sometimes dragy doesn't load the temp data, but the runs were done 3 months apart, the first was in July and the second in October on the exact same stretch of road. The runs were done in Daly City CA which is known for having a similar temperature year round and in fact has a hotter high in OCT.


The improved braking, handling, MPG is just basic physics and prior car knowledge. I don't need to provide anymore evidence than that, especially when you won't. Walking away from other cars doesn't really mean much when you have nothing to show for how fast or slow your car actually is, actual empirical evidence. You could be racing a bunch of 14 second cars, or mid 13 second cars with ****ty drivers? how are we supposed to know?

Sounds like a lot more mods than just I, E, T which is what you originally said in comparison to just wheels and tires. I'm sure a highly modified car will edge out a stock one with just wheels and tires, but intake exhaust and tune wont do much if you have heavy wheels and crappy tires.

 

Three months apart run are not really a accurate comparison. Race track engine builders will tell you at the track they Tune by Humidity. Temp can be same, Humidity can change far different 3 month later. Very inconsistent to use as comparisons. Cali is also well known for Smog number from day to day.

Actual street runs are Not Dyno races, or Draggy computations races. You can deal with that. I have long dealt with the streets. I like to see my car perform lined up on the Track or street, light to light. You can't tell me that if you are walking all other GS460's with the same mods, your GS460 is not faster than the others? Makes no sense. No one matches up cars doing Dyno races or Dragy races. They are like for like hp cars, with similar Mods.

If you guys want to say wheels and tires, thinking it beats adding 50+ hp Mods, I don't know what to tell you. There was a guy here with a GS350 a few months ago that got the D3 Tune. He had only CAI if I remember correctly. He did some accurate back to back runs. He cut a .5 sec off with just the Tune. Also there's no way you can tell me if you have Headers and Tune you did not feel the difference. I understand what you are saying about the lighten drivetrain, but vs the Mods the op posted in his 1st post is just so..... . There are also diff weight tires, same size or different (Snow Tires), heavy and light Brake Rotors, all rotating mass weight also. You have your opinion, this is Mine. Think about what a Bolt On Mod 4.3sec IS350 does on the street with some other cars? We we know a Prius wont beat a Hellcat, SRT or Demon. But a Demon that walks on others Demon is faster period. Dragy, Dyno whatever.

 

You guys need to bone up! Take that 14 second ¼ mile time and cut at least 5 seconds off it! Maybe cut it almost in half!

My dental hygienist holds the world record for the fastest and quickest GT-R with stock turbos and full weight, with a time of 9.175 seconds in a 1/4 mile at 148.14 mph. Her car is a 1500 HP GTR.


Some people want to save money on brakes and others need to be able to stop.

A friend of mine has a daily driver 2017 Nissan GT-R [stock] twin-turbo with 750 WHP with a $13,000 F&R Carbon Ceramic brake package. She just set a World Record at Houston's NHRA Royal Purple Raceway for the fastest Nismo GT-R with 'built motor' and 'built transmission' but using stock turbos (GTR-1 DCT Class) at 9.175 ET @ 148.14 mph.

Want exotic brakes?

Her car needs to be able to stop from over 180 mph!

Carbon Ceramic Big Brake Stopping Power (For up to 2,000 HP and over 200 mph)







How about turning it up 2,300 HP for a 7 second pass with no shuts?

.........................




Can you imagine the thrill of hooking up and going 0-60mph in just over 1 second?

At 1,800 horsepower she may pack a pink parachute to go with the Hello Kitty wrap to drive the guys she beats crazy as they look at her rear end cross the finish line ahead of them! She's going for 2,500+ horsepower to break into the 7 second bracket. She's pretty special!

Next up was 3,000 horsepower for a high 6 second pass, though most thought it would take 3,500 horsepower with a perfect launch and run. She is really sweet and super special!

Less than 7 seconds to 200 mph! That's rocket fast!