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Car won’t start

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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 04:42 PM
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Default Car won’t start

Just finished cleaning carb from valves. Worked for a few drive cycles all of a sudden last time I turned off car walked away to lock car remote wasn’t responding. Came to start car ignition light worked for a brief second before car powered down and moved steering wheel down. Key fob light blinks but car doesn’t respond to any buttons on the fob. Car doesn’t start when key fob is next to push to start. The car doesn’t even turn on the dash lights. The only light that comes on on the dash is when the door is opened. Security light is on when car is locked and turns off when opened using metal key.
Interior lights, headlights, door locks work. Radio and dash and power windows don’t. Tested battery at autozone and they said it’s a good battery. Jumpered the starter wires and the starter is working. Checked basic small fuses they all work in the passenger/driver/next to battery fuse box. Going to try the the relays/fuseable link next. Has this happened to anyone?

Also went ahead and changed the fuel pressure sensor and still no go! Connected tech stream and it won’t show anything says all my ecu’s are down (no status) please help me I don’t want to tow the car to a dealership.
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by KH818
Just finished cleaning carb from valves. Worked for a few drive cycles all of a sudden last time I turned off car walked away to lock car remote wasn’t responding. Came to start car ignition light worked for a brief second before car powered down and moved steering wheel down. Key fob light blinks but car doesn’t respond to any buttons on the fob. Car doesn’t start when key fob is next to push to start. The car doesn’t even turn on the dash lights. The only light that comes on on the dash is when the door is opened. Security light is on when car is locked and turns off when opened using metal key.
Interior lights, headlights, door locks work. Radio and dash and power windows don’t. Tested battery at autozone and they said it’s a good battery. Jumpered the starter wires and the starter is working. Checked basic small fuses they all work in the passenger/driver/next to battery fuse box. Going to try the the relays/fuseable link next. Has this happened to anyone?

Also went ahead and changed the fuel pressure sensor and still no go! Connected tech stream and it won’t show anything says all my ecu’s are down (no status) please help me I don’t want to tow the car to a dealership.
https://streamable.com/6322p8

link to video
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 08:17 PM
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If you click on the keyfob to lock and unlock the door and nothing is happening, then first replace the battery in your keyfob.
Similar incident happened when my keyfob battery was going out.

The coin shaped battery should be "CR1632".
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CowBoE
If you click on the keyfob to lock and unlock the door and nothing is happening, then first replace the battery in your keyfob.
Similar incident happened when my keyfob battery was going out.

The coin shaped battery should be "CR1632".
Just checked with a multimeter and I’m getting 3 volts on the battery. Same as what’s indicated on the battery. Pretty sure it’s not the reason because I changed the battery 4 weeks ago.


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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 12:43 AM
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I would mount that oem fuel sensor back on, ive read those china sensors on ebay are not good
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ibidu1
I would mount that oem fuel sensor back on, ive read those china sensors on ebay are not good
what’s the worst that can happen? Can I just leave it on and put the oem one when the ebay one craps out?
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by KH818
what’s the worst that can happen? Can I just leave it on and put the oem one when the ebay one craps out?
I have trust issues with cheap china parts off ebay, the ones sold in big box chain auto parts are more trust worthy imo.

There was a video you posted with the is250, the mechanic unplugged one of the plugs on the ecu and that allowed the ecu to reboot. Have you tried that?


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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ibidu1
I have trust issues with cheap china parts off ebay, the ones sold in big box chain auto parts are more trust worthy imo.

There was a video you posted with the is250, the mechanic unplugged one of the plugs on the ecu and that allowed the ecu to reboot. Have you tried that?

no I haven’t which video?
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by KH818
no I haven’t which video?
Notice how the ecu resets itself and the fuel pump kicks on
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ibidu1
Notice how the ecu resets itself and the fuel pump kicks on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eENs...ature=emb_logo
it doesn’t reset the ecu though does it? its only to check for the fuel pressure sensor no?

I unplugged that wire and i didnt hear the fuel pump or anything but I still went ahead and changed the fuel pressure sensor cause it was only $20 but it didn’t fix the problem.

Do you think the alternator can cause this? I read that the alternator won’t stop your car from starting?
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by KH818
it doesn’t reset the ecu though does it? its only to check for the fuel pressure sensor no?

I unplugged that wire and i didnt hear the fuel pump or anything but I still went ahead and changed the fuel pressure sensor cause it was only $20 but it didn’t fix the problem.

Do you think the alternator can cause this? I read that the alternator won’t stop your car from starting?
If the battery voltage is above about 12.7 volts the car should start even if you disconnected the alternator. Test the battery voltage! Worst case call a mobile mechanic to help you out, instead of throwing money at parts. This why it can properly get diagnosed.

The reason for him unplugging the harness is because to test if theres a short in the wires. In his case the fuel sensor was being shorted out. So by him unplugging that plug on the harness it allowed the ecu to reboot and not detect a short in the wires.
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ibidu1
If the battery voltage is above about 12.7 volts the car should start even if you disconnected the alternator. Test the battery voltage! Worst case call a mobile mechanic to help you out, instead of throwing money at parts. This why it can properly get diagnosed.

The reason for him unplugging the harness is because to test if theres a short in the wires. In his case the fuel sensor was being shorted out. So by him unplugging that plug on the harness it allowed the ecu to reboot and not detect a short in the wires.
With the battery on should I remove each connecter from ecu to test or that wouldn’t work?
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by KH818
With the battery on should I remove each connecter from ecu to test or that wouldn’t work?
Test the battery attached, then test the battery to make sure it has enough voltage to start the car. You can try to unplug a battery terminal to see if it does anything.
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ibidu1
Test the battery attached, then test the battery to make sure it has enough voltage to start the car. You can try to unplug a battery terminal to see if it does anything.
I had autozone test battery, tested voltage myself also.
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 05:46 PM
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turns out it was the fuseable link! jumpered from the fuseable link to the battery and car turned on! do i need to replace the entire box or just the fuseable link (the metal part)?

the relays and fuses work on the rest of the fusible link box!

Last edited by KH818; Jan 11, 2021 at 06:00 PM.
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