Hi everyone! I have a 2010 gs non ml and I recently sold my 06 and took out my stereo system and installed into my 2010. But after the install the subs sound like they are blown on certian songs.i checked the wiring several times and everything is right. I'm using a bit one and audison 5.1k amplifier. Come to find out my factory amp is putting out the wrong signal for the subs. This was caused by the first shop that installed it I believe. But my question is can I just take out the factory amp and just use my after market amps. Or does the car have to have the factory amp. Has anyone here done this before? Thanks

 

I don't know if you can take out the amp all together but you can bypass it by tapping into the lines before the amp. The amp however creates all sound related to navigation, bluetooth, and any beeps the car makes as you hit buttons and so forth. So if you do remove the amp or bypass it you will loose that functionality.

You have a nice setup I've been thinking about upgrading to an audison amp myself. I don't have a bit one but I did install an MS8 in my GS with ML. It sounds like a setup issue not a factory amp problem because I don't see how the amp could be sending the wrong signal. There has to be a problem with the wiring or setup of the bit one.

Since I don't have any experience with bit one I can't comment on the setup. My MS8 however didn't care where the inputs were coming from or what signal they were producing. It took all of the inputs I provided, processed the signal and then I told it where the output signal should go. So if your positive the wiring is correct then I would make sure you're sending your signals to the right location on the audison amp.

Was your 06 a non ML as well because the wiring is different between the two systems. I created a thread about my MS8 install which has the wiring for a non ML system.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...gram-help.html

Are you the person that had the amp on the right of the trunk behind a piece of plexiglass with blue lights? If so that was a nice setup!

 

the reason i know it has something to do with the factory amp is because i connected my I-pod strait to the bit one and the subs sounded perfect.

 

That just proves the outputs going from the bit one to the audison amp are correct. Therefore the problem has to be with the bit one setup. I read the bit one instruction manual and it works like the MS8, you just have more control over each speaker.

It doesn't care what channels you use for high level inputs because like the MS8 you tell it what each channel represents. So what you are telling the bit one is your high level sub input channel truly doesn't have a sub line connected or its not connected properly. Since your positive the wiring from the factory amp to the bit one is correct, I would go thru the setup process again to make sure the bit one knows which channel your using for the sub input.

Anything is possible but I seriously doubt the factory amp is sending out the wrong signal. If you are having the work done at a shop that is telling you its the factory amp then you may want to go to another shop.

 

ive took it to 3 different audison installers and no one was able to figure it out. A audison rep even came out to check it out and still was unable to fix it. I took the factory amp to a repair shop and they found some blown caps inside but they were not able to test the output signals. I'm guessing the first shop that tried to installed it did something wrong and damaged the factory amp. I have the wiring diagram and checked everything several times and everything is right. Is there anyway to test the signals coming out of the factory amp.

 

Is your factory amp even turning on?? you can measure the output with a ohms meter to see if anything is being sent out

 

What caps are blown on the factory amp? Can you ask the repair shop to elaborate?

I've gone through 6 different amps on my car, not one time have I blown the factory amp.

Also, Why'd you use such a sophisticated system for one sub (bit one, made for multiple channels), if you don't mind me asking?

 

Did anyone try re-running the input sensitivity calibration (page 35 of manual)? Anyone put an oscilloscope on the ins/outs to see where the distortion first arises and what it looks like? Should be easy enough to isolate the culprit.

 

The problem wasn't in the tuning, I don't think. It was his factory amp blowing caps, causing distortion.

I assumed the same thing as you DrexLex,

Since you're ALWAYS suppose to use a Oscillo/DD-1 [SMD distortion meter] when tuning gains.

Up until he took the factory amp in and there were problems.

 

What you know about SMD aka Steve Meade lol

 

Interesting, well if you have done all that then now I understand why your saying its the factory amp. So back to your original question lol, yes you can bypass the factory amp if your willing to loose a few features. If it was me I would have the factory amp repaired or replaced. But if you don't have navigation or don't use a cell phone in the car then bypass the amp.

He has a full system....

 

If the factory amp is cooked, that answers the question of the distortion. So why did 3 sets of experts ignore that?

Naquin, if you use the factory amp to drive the sub as original, does it sound distorted? Is that amp not working right?

 

yes I tried hooking it back up to its original way and still have the same problem. But if I bypass all inputs from the factory amp and use my I-pod on the bit one the system sounds just the way I had it in my 06 gs

 

So it appears to be a case of GIGO (garbage in, garbage out), meaning until you get the original amp fixed, the new amp will not have clean audio to amplify.

Is the distortion only on the subwoofer output of the factory amp? If you disconnect the subwoofer, is the rest of the sound ok?

I take it the "blown caps" repair did not do the trick. It would be good to know more about the current condition of the factory amp. Is it clipping too soon (clean at lower volumes)? Clipping on one of the 2 speaker outputs (bridge amp has 2 active outputs per speaker), problem exists on several channels or not? Which caps were replaced -- what was their function (power supply, decoupling, etc)? Any details might help.

Are you still thinking of finding a way to get the amp fixed?

 

ROFL, what YOU know about SMD?

Don't tell me you know the brother....

His products are amazing for the local audio enthusiast.... Makes it STUPID easy to tune your system the way it should be sounding.

Is that really what the amplifier does? In that case there's more to it than just being an amp.

Ohh no, I mean, why should he worry about his gains on the amplifier cooking the factory amp? The factory amp is just acting like a signal processor itself (sort of), isn't it? What really bugs me is HOW is the factory amp popping caps when all it is acting like, is a signal out, driving nothing but a sound signal to the bit one?

I'd agree here, to keep it simple and have the OEM amplifier repaired.

There is a thread I made a while back, where I'm not sure if it's for aftermarket head unit integration, or aftermarket amplifier integration (bypassing OEM amplifier). You should look into it and call the company (I believe scosche) to find out the details.

GL!