headlight angles
I took mine to the dealership and they did it. Initially they said they dont know how so I showed them the directions in the cars manual and they took care of it. first they pushed up, but I wanted a little more angle. they pushed up the second time and I was lighting up freeway signs, the thirs time was a charm. I am very happy. The low headlight aim was one of my biggest complaints about the GS after owning my previos G35
I guess I wasn't as convincing as you. My dealer refused to budge them citing some vague 'spec'. We went back and forth a little. Maybe I caved too soon but ended up doing it myself. Like you, was a big complaint for me and happy with the result.
They just seemed like they didnt know how to do it. They looked it up on the computer. Then once it was done my service guy went to the parts department to get an entire headlight assembly just to show me how they did it. Lexus service is amazing
That is going the extra mile. My 'ship seemed pretty familiar with the complaint meaning I got the impression they had heard it a lot but they dug in. I don't think it was because they didn't know how but can't be sure of that. So far has been the only time my service rep has disappointed me and he's gone above and beyond on several other things so overall i still am
I have to say that the Lexus manual is full of it when it comes to adjusting th headlights with poor vague directions. Someone please clarify this for me: Adjustment A has to be the high beams because my highbeams are literally pointing torwards the sky or the trees on back roads. Adjustment B is the low beam, correct? Since I adjusted both together as the manual says "keep the number of turns the same" - jeez what a stupid idea. I should just go back and adjust B and get the low beams up.
Hi everybody!
I need your help on verification of my newly adjusted setup. Readying the manual and not reading the forum, I surely enough messed up my driver side projector horizontal setup.
As somebody mentioned that if the adjustment of the low beam was easy, you did not do it right. Surely enough, in the morning my $1500 projector was pointing 30 degrees to the side (the level capsule was not visible under the glass cover at all)
. The next day I moved it back and did it almost right, according to my calculations. After reading of the forum I was able to perform the vertical adjustment.
Results so far:
Pros:
1. I can see at least 100 feet away on the road.
2. I can see signs, people and animals well before they appear in front of my car.
3. There are more than 4 illuminated reflectors in front of my car on the freeway.
4. Cars in front of me actually have full size bumpers at night (lol).
Neut:
1. There is much more light on the side of the road next to the car on the passenger side, something driver needs to get used to (light is only present under cutoff line).
Cons:
1. For some reason, my cutoffs from two projectors are no longer horizontal.
2. I can not recreate the perfect cutoff step I had before. ____--------
3. The space under cutoff line marked with * is much darker from the distance of 25 feet projected on the wall. ____--*-----
4. This one drives me nuts the most. On any object (walls, bushes, ramps) closer than 25 feet, the bright shapes of two cutoffs are visible. My passenger side cutoff no longer blends in.
According to the headlight aiming manuals, found on the internet, the beams should be parallel. I measured the space between my projectors on the car as 59 inches. Assuming that my passenger side projector was set properly at the factory, I set the spacing between the reflected cutoffs on the wall as 59 (distance to the garage door was 4-5 feet). Can somebody check those measurements for me please as my newly adjusted lights don't look even as good as on my RX? The space between the wall projection of right and left cutoffs ---|---|--- can be measured by marking it with a piece of paper on the garage door, the passenger side cutoff is only clearly visible when the driver side light is covered. I'll post some actual pics of my setup when I get home today for your judgment. I'm quite happy with a new setup but want it to look better than projector retrofit.
Thank You All in advance.
I need your help on verification of my newly adjusted setup. Readying the manual and not reading the forum, I surely enough messed up my driver side projector horizontal setup.
As somebody mentioned that if the adjustment of the low beam was easy, you did not do it right. Surely enough, in the morning my $1500 projector was pointing 30 degrees to the side (the level capsule was not visible under the glass cover at all)
. The next day I moved it back and did it almost right, according to my calculations. After reading of the forum I was able to perform the vertical adjustment. Results so far:
Pros:
1. I can see at least 100 feet away on the road.
2. I can see signs, people and animals well before they appear in front of my car.
3. There are more than 4 illuminated reflectors in front of my car on the freeway.
4. Cars in front of me actually have full size bumpers at night (lol).
Neut:
1. There is much more light on the side of the road next to the car on the passenger side, something driver needs to get used to (light is only present under cutoff line).
Cons:
1. For some reason, my cutoffs from two projectors are no longer horizontal.
2. I can not recreate the perfect cutoff step I had before. ____--------
3. The space under cutoff line marked with * is much darker from the distance of 25 feet projected on the wall. ____--*-----
4. This one drives me nuts the most. On any object (walls, bushes, ramps) closer than 25 feet, the bright shapes of two cutoffs are visible. My passenger side cutoff no longer blends in.
According to the headlight aiming manuals, found on the internet, the beams should be parallel. I measured the space between my projectors on the car as 59 inches. Assuming that my passenger side projector was set properly at the factory, I set the spacing between the reflected cutoffs on the wall as 59 (distance to the garage door was 4-5 feet). Can somebody check those measurements for me please as my newly adjusted lights don't look even as good as on my RX? The space between the wall projection of right and left cutoffs ---|---|--- can be measured by marking it with a piece of paper on the garage door, the passenger side cutoff is only clearly visible when the driver side light is covered. I'll post some actual pics of my setup when I get home today for your judgment. I'm quite happy with a new setup but want it to look better than projector retrofit.
Thank You All in advance.
Correct, there is a horizontal gauge as well - it's inside the clear plastic bulb housing on the back of the headlight. It's not a bubble/level gauge like the high and low beams.
They look ok but to me, not knowing exactly what angle you took those shots from,
driver's side beam seems too far left and passenger side seems a tad low
DO NOT ASSUME THEY WERE SET RIGHT FROM THE FACTORY
If you can, try and find a longer wall/distance to measure against ~ 25'. It'll be infinitely easier to see the vertical cut-off, the steps matching up and the left/right spread/alignment. If you can't, then use the bubble gauges for the vertical, and the stick gauges for the horizontal. I've found them to be [fairly] accurate. Start by zero-ing them all out to the middle and adjusting from there.
No picture of the horizontal gauge, but here are the vertical ones:

As G-Man said above...
They look ok but to me, not knowing exactly what angle you took those shots from,
driver's side beam seems too far left and passenger side seems a tad low
DO NOT ASSUME THEY WERE SET RIGHT FROM THE FACTORY
If you can, try and find a longer wall/distance to measure against ~ 25'. It'll be infinitely easier to see the vertical cut-off, the steps matching up and the left/right spread/alignment. If you can't, then use the bubble gauges for the vertical, and the stick gauges for the horizontal. I've found them to be [fairly] accurate. Start by zero-ing them all out to the middle and adjusting from there.
No picture of the horizontal gauge, but here are the vertical ones:

As G-Man said above...
Originally Posted by The G Man
Adjusting the low beam on the GS was the easiest 2 weekend project I ever did
Last edited by BurgBoxstr; Nov 4, 2008 at 05:52 AM.
Thanks for a great advice!
The pictures were taken from the location of the driver door (1) and the drivers seat (2, 3) and really don’t do a justice. They are showing the passenger side being way too low, which is actually not true, but after your comments I can clearly see that the passenger side needs to be raised a little to match both cutoffs. I'll do that once I check the horizontal positioning. (You are absolutely right on the picture analysis)
So, looks like two weekends minus two hours to go. Is the horizontal gauge visible through plastic cover or it needs to be removed? It is always thrilling to work next to 20000 voltsssss!
If any of you feel like posting the picture of your cutoff before or after adjustment, please do as it could be a great reference point for people to compare the final results.
Thank You Very much again, could not ask for better help
The pictures were taken from the location of the driver door (1) and the drivers seat (2, 3) and really don’t do a justice. They are showing the passenger side being way too low, which is actually not true, but after your comments I can clearly see that the passenger side needs to be raised a little to match both cutoffs. I'll do that once I check the horizontal positioning. (You are absolutely right on the picture analysis)
So, looks like two weekends minus two hours to go. Is the horizontal gauge visible through plastic cover or it needs to be removed? It is always thrilling to work next to 20000 voltsssss!

If any of you feel like posting the picture of your cutoff before or after adjustment, please do as it could be a great reference point for people to compare the final results.
Thank You Very much again, could not ask for better help
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cyberlexus
SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)
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Feb 6, 2011 09:33 PM






