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Hi guys,
Can someone give me some advice on my problem? After warming my car up and reversing it, I shift the gear to drive. The problem is the car hesitates and I hear spinning when I hit the gas, but the car isn't moving for a few seconds. I usually let it roll for a few seconds, and then it jerks when it goes. It's weird because after like driving a mile or so and parking again and reversing and changing to drive, the problem is gone. I want to take it to a mechanic, but feel he won't be able to replicate the issue. I've been searching the forum and was thinking TPS, but wanted to get you guys opinion.
Sounds like a tranny shift solenoid. While parked with the engine running, with your foot on the brake, if you shift from Park into Reverse, how many seconds does it take for the transmission to engage? If you then shift into Drive, with your foot still on the brake, how long does it take for the transmission to engage?
Have you checked your transmission fluid level (when hot, with engine running)?
Any CEL's?
Oh no. That doesn't sound good. If I shift from Park to reverse, it reverses fine; only one time it jerked from reversing when I hit the gas. When I shift into Drive from Reverse is the bigger issue. It take like 5-10 secs for it to engage. I would hit the gas and hear it spinning ot trying, but it won't go for a few secs and then jerks and then it goes fine. Hmmm I'll check it tomorrow when cold and warm and see if the levels are good. No CELs at all. I passed inspection lol. Thanks for responding so fast.
Before trying anything else, check your transmission fluid level. The manual says to do so when the vehicle is warm (engine and transmission), park, keep the engine running, pull out the dipstick (turn to unlock), wipe the indicator region clean, re-insert the dipstick into the tube, lock it (turn to lock), unlock and remove the dipstick, and read the indicator in the "hot" region. Also, let us know what the transmission fluid looks like. Is it red/pink and clear, or brown/black and dirty, or another color/condition?
Hey Curly. This is what it looks like. Don't mind the dirty napkin as the blk stuff was already on the napkin. It's a red/pink color. I change it every 15K miles with lexus transmission fluid. You think it's short a tad to the next notch?
Hi Agent$mith, the transmission fluid looks normal. I'm not sure about the level, since the dipstick in the GS400 is different. Here is a picture of the transmission dipstick from my GS400 at normal operating temperature, engine running, in park:
I am curious why you change your transmission fluid every 15k miles? I believe the owners manual says the transmission fluid never needs replacing. Also, how do you drain the transmission fluid, and how much do you add back?
If you drain the transmission fluid by removing the oil plug, you drain about 2 qts. If you remove the drain pain, about 4 more qts spill out. With the pan removed, you can then replace the 3 transmission filters, and also clean off and inspect the magnets stuck to the bottom of the pan. Examining the particles in the filters, on the magnets, and in the bottom of the pan may be indicative of any transmission problems. Just remember to measure the amount of transmission fluid that came out, and add the same amount back in.
Also, I just read in the FSM that at normal operating fluid temperature, with the engine idling and parking brake applied, the 2JZ-GE idle speed should be 700 +/- 50 RPM. Testing the time it takes to feel the "shock" of the transmission engaging, the time lag from N to D should be less than 1.2 seconds. From N to R should be less than 1.5 seconds.
If N to D is longer:
Ahh thanks CurlyG for replying. I change it in abundance of caution. I tend to change mine every 3 oil changes or so. I don't do a flush, but a normal drain so 2 qts go in. I hope it's not the transmission since the car shifts fine on the gears during driving. I think it's probably a clutch or something then. Once the car is warmed up driving a block or so, the jerking is gone completely.from going Reverse to Drive. Btw, my driveway is at an incline, so the movement of fluid maybe a factor when I'm reversing off of it.
I'm sure your intentions and efforts are meant to help, but changing the transmission fluid every 15k is excessive. For one, draining the oil via the drain plug hole only removes about 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid, and moreover, it does not clear out (or reveal) the particles trapped by the filters. If you are capable and motivated, you could possibly do some good by removing the transmission pan, and inspecting the filters, magnets, and debris in the bottom of the pan. Then install new filters, clean the magnets, and RTV the drain pan back on. Remember to add at least as much transmission fluid as you drained. A lot more will come out when you drop the pan. Now you'll have replaced about %85 of the fluid.
I did this operation 2 times, and the second time I bent the crap out of the drain pan, as I had used excessive RTV when I bonded it back on the first time, and I had to pry it one end of it off with a crowbar (I later hammered the bent end straight again, and it sealed fine). During the re-installation of the pan, I had trouble both times while aligning the dip stick tube with the drain pan, as the articulation required to align the drain pan and the tube ensures trouble with the fresh RTV bead around the rim of the drain pan. It's also easy to forget about the dip stick tube, and reinstall the drain pan with out it connected (cause I done it once). Make sure you use the correct RTV (FIPG, Part No. 08826-00090, Three Bond 1281, or equivalent).
If you search around, people on here don't usually recommend flushing the tranny. Just drain and refill if you aren't having problems. I've had my car for 19 years so far, so I think issues like this are due to happen sadly. I did have my oil pan replaced though, but that was due to other issues.
Jerking acceleration
