Parts list for timing belt job
#16
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I have an electric impact that can remove the bolt I was worried about keeping the cams themselves in time that way when it comes time to put the pulleys back everything would still be in time
#17
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Watch the videos. Search jefftsai's 2JZ timing belt video series.
The VVT cam pulley is a bit weird to me. I guess you just line up the outer pulley's timing marks with the shaft and don't worry about where the cam itself is. That is, I *think* the only calibration you need on the intake side (VVT pulley), is to get the normal timing mark aligned, and the inner mechanism takes care of itself by computer and solenoid. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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ahill007ny (03-19-19)
#18
I just wanted to throw it out there that I'm not saying not to to the VVTi seal replacement. Just that in my experience it was a difficult time, and the money aside, it was three times taking it apart and back together before just getting a new one. Meaning that for some of us, time is more valuable than money. If you are patient and have the ability to tear back down if need be, then I still believe it can be done. But you may get unlucky a time or two.
What I really recommend is ordering two of the seals so that if the first one doesn't work out well, you won't have to wait for another seal before attempting again. Looking back, I think what caused my codes was that by the third try, the only way I could come up with to get the seal to work was to completely remove the VVTi gear, get it flat on a bench so gravity didn't fight the seal when placing it, and using adhesive to keep it in place while reinstalling the outer cog. What must have happened was adhesive was dislodged and blocked the oil passages. I didn't want to get another seal and bother with trying to clean out the gear from adhesive. So I got a new unit, put it on and haven't looked back. Doing it the last way stopped the leak, but over then next few days threw codes. It was at that point I said screw it.
What I really recommend is ordering two of the seals so that if the first one doesn't work out well, you won't have to wait for another seal before attempting again. Looking back, I think what caused my codes was that by the third try, the only way I could come up with to get the seal to work was to completely remove the VVTi gear, get it flat on a bench so gravity didn't fight the seal when placing it, and using adhesive to keep it in place while reinstalling the outer cog. What must have happened was adhesive was dislodged and blocked the oil passages. I didn't want to get another seal and bother with trying to clean out the gear from adhesive. So I got a new unit, put it on and haven't looked back. Doing it the last way stopped the leak, but over then next few days threw codes. It was at that point I said screw it.
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ahill007ny (03-21-19)
#19
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Thanks for the help guys. Job is done. A project report, tips section, and part number list has now been added to post #1 for anyone who takes this on in the future. I recommend trying it yourself!
Last edited by funditor; 04-22-19 at 04:54 PM.
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firelizard (04-22-19),
n1ck (06-03-19)
#20
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I just wanted to throw it out there that I'm not saying not to to the VVTi seal replacement. Just that in my experience it was a difficult time, and the money aside, it was three times taking it apart and back together before just getting a new one. Meaning that for some of us, time is more valuable than money. If you are patient and have the ability to tear back down if need be, then I still believe it can be done. But you may get unlucky a time or two.
What I really recommend is ordering two of the seals so that if the first one doesn't work out well, you won't have to wait for another seal before attempting again. Looking back, I think what caused my codes was that by the third try, the only way I could come up with to get the seal to work was to completely remove the VVTi gear, get it flat on a bench so gravity didn't fight the seal when placing it, and using adhesive to keep it in place while reinstalling the outer cog. What must have happened was adhesive was dislodged and blocked the oil passages. I didn't want to get another seal and bother with trying to clean out the gear from adhesive. So I got a new unit, put it on and haven't looked back. Doing it the last way stopped the leak, but over then next few days threw codes. It was at that point I said screw it.
What I really recommend is ordering two of the seals so that if the first one doesn't work out well, you won't have to wait for another seal before attempting again. Looking back, I think what caused my codes was that by the third try, the only way I could come up with to get the seal to work was to completely remove the VVTi gear, get it flat on a bench so gravity didn't fight the seal when placing it, and using adhesive to keep it in place while reinstalling the outer cog. What must have happened was adhesive was dislodged and blocked the oil passages. I didn't want to get another seal and bother with trying to clean out the gear from adhesive. So I got a new unit, put it on and haven't looked back. Doing it the last way stopped the leak, but over then next few days threw codes. It was at that point I said screw it.
Thanks!
#21
Ya thats the code I was getting after disassembling my vvt sprocket and replacing it's seal. When I finally replaced the whole sprocket with a new Toyota one I never got a code again. But you're saying you didn't disassemble it right? Interesting..
#22
A few posts up is an exploded view of the components. Look for the OCV filter located just below the OCV valve. It's a large 22mm or 24mm bolt if I remember. Pull it out and try cleaning the filter. Maybe it's clogged up.
#23
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Yeah I just cleaned it real well. I have replaced the OCV filter and solenoid already. Did yours run ok when it was throwing the code or run bad? That’s my issues is it runs fine but still throws the code. I’ll replace the pulley just don’t want to tear into it again if it could be something else.
#24
Ran fine, just threw the code. Usually from higher speeds/rpms. Can't say for sure you need a new vvt sprocket, but it defiantly sounds like my same situation.
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I just ordered one today. There isn’t anything else I could think of it being since the ecu worked before and I definitely touched and cleaned the pulley during the timing job I’m inclined to think I jammed stuff up inside it. I will confirm timing being on when I pull the radiator and everything again to do the pulley but if it was off I’m assuming it would run like crap and give the code.
#26
I just ordered one today. There isn’t anything else I could think of it being since the ecu worked before and I definitely touched and cleaned the pulley during the timing job I’m inclined to think I jammed stuff up inside it. I will confirm timing being on when I pull the radiator and everything again to do the pulley but if it was off I’m assuming it would run like crap and give the code.
Will
#27
That only applies to newer Toyota VVTi sprockets. The ones on the 2jz don't lock. Later ones do and they have a whole nother level of pain in the a$$ lol. Plus they fail way more often on the corollas and camrys.
#28
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It was the pulley I’ve taken it out multiple times since with no codes, I appreciate the help! However I screwed it up once and managed to blow the bottom out of the plastic intake resonator box. So if anyone has one for sale let me know!! It happens when you miss the keyway on the vvti pulley and you try to start it. Lesson learned
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04-09-11 07:28 AM