ahill007ny

I have an electric impact that can remove the bolt I was worried about keeping the cams themselves in time that way when it comes time to put the pulleys back everything would still be in time

funditor

I haven't done this myself yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt. I don't think you should ever rely on not moving the camshaft. They're probably going to move a little bit no matter how you take the bolts off. When you put the timing belt on, you have to make sure that the cam pulleys have their timing marks manually aligned to the timing marks on the cover. Mark the timing marks and cover with a paint pen before beginning disassembly.

Watch the videos. Search jefftsai's 2JZ timing belt video series.

The VVT cam pulley is a bit weird to me. I guess you just line up the outer pulley's timing marks with the shaft and don't worry about where the cam itself is. That is, I *think* the only calibration you need on the intake side (VVT pulley), is to get the normal timing mark aligned, and the inner mechanism takes care of itself by computer and solenoid. Correct me if I'm wrong.

TrueGS300

I just wanted to throw it out there that I'm not saying not to to the VVTi seal replacement. Just that in my experience it was a difficult time, and the money aside, it was three times taking it apart and back together before just getting a new one. Meaning that for some of us, time is more valuable than money. If you are patient and have the ability to tear back down if need be, then I still believe it can be done. But you may get unlucky a time or two.

What I really recommend is ordering two of the seals so that if the first one doesn't work out well, you won't have to wait for another seal before attempting again. Looking back, I think what caused my codes was that by the third try, the only way I could come up with to get the seal to work was to completely remove the VVTi gear, get it flat on a bench so gravity didn't fight the seal when placing it, and using adhesive to keep it in place while reinstalling the outer cog. What must have happened was adhesive was dislodged and blocked the oil passages. I didn't want to get another seal and bother with trying to clean out the gear from adhesive. So I got a new unit, put it on and haven't looked back. Doing it the last way stopped the leak, but over then next few days threw codes. It was at that point I said screw it.

funditor

Thanks for the help guys. Job is done. A project report, tips section, and part number list has now been added to post #1 for anyone who takes this on in the future. I recommend trying it yourself!

Laxmike65

What codes was it throwing when you did this before just replacing the whole vvti pulley and did it run ok? I just finished a full timing belt job and everything is running well but I keep popping a p1349 code for the vvti malfunction yet everything is running fine. I did all the timing belt and associated parts including the ocv valve and filter but I didn’t replace the pulley just cleaned it really well since the cam seal behind it has been leaking. Do you think this might be causing my code issue?

Thanks!

TrueGS300

Ya thats the code I was getting after disassembling my vvt sprocket and replacing it's seal. When I finally replaced the whole sprocket with a new Toyota one I never got a code again. But you're saying you didn't disassemble it right? Interesting..

TrueGS300

A few posts up is an exploded view of the components. Look for the OCV filter located just below the OCV valve. It's a large 22mm or 24mm bolt if I remember. Pull it out and try cleaning the filter. Maybe it's clogged up.

Laxmike65

Yeah I just cleaned it real well. I have replaced the OCV filter and solenoid already. Did yours run ok when it was throwing the code or run bad? That’s my issues is it runs fine but still throws the code. I’ll replace the pulley just don’t want to tear into it again if it could be something else.

TrueGS300

Ran fine, just threw the code. Usually from higher speeds/rpms. Can't say for sure you need a new vvt sprocket, but it defiantly sounds like my same situation.

Laxmike65

I just ordered one today. There isn’t anything else I could think of it being since the ecu worked before and I definitely touched and cleaned the pulley during the timing job I’m inclined to think I jammed stuff up inside it. I will confirm timing being on when I pull the radiator and everything again to do the pulley but if it was off I’m assuming it would run like crap and give the code.

EuroWill

I haven’t looked at the service manual for this repair but I once had the same problem on a 1.8 Corolla while doing a head gasket. After the job, the car ran fine but threw the same code at highway speeds. When I ran into this issue, the cause was the VVTI sprocket being locked vs unlocked while is set the timing. I cannot remember the specifics, but basically, the Intake cam sprocket has to be locked or unlocked while timing the engine. I would reread the service manual where it discusses the VVTI sprocket if I were you.

Will

TrueGS300

That only applies to newer Toyota VVTi sprockets. The ones on the 2jz don't lock. Later ones do and they have a whole nother level of pain in the a$$ lol. Plus they fail way more often on the corollas and camrys.

EuroWill

Awesome info - thanks!

Laxmike65

It was the pulley I’ve taken it out multiple times since with no codes, I appreciate the help! However I screwed it up once and managed to blow the bottom out of the plastic intake resonator box. So if anyone has one for sale let me know!! It happens when you miss the keyway on the vvti pulley and you try to start it. Lesson learned