Parts list for timing belt job - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

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Parts list for timing belt job

 
Old 03-12-19, 08:04 PM
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funditor
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Default Parts list for timing belt job

Hey guys,

I have to do the timing belt on my '99 GS300, 134 k miles all original equipment. There is a lot of oil inside the timing belt area. Please help me decide what maintenance I should add on while everything is apart. I've never taken valve covers off. Should I do anything else in there while they're off? There's oil around the whole rim of the engine, so I suspect it's been leaking at the valve cover.

I plan to replace the following parts:

1. Timing Belt
2. Water Pump with 1 O Ring and 1 Gasket
3. Intake and Exhaust side cam seals
4. O Ring replacement for the VVT pulley ("rebuild" the VVT pulley)
5. Valve cover gaskets
6. Radiator fluid flush
7. Valve cover bolt grommets
8. Crankshaft seal
9. Tensioner bearing
10. Hydraulic tensioner
11. OCV Filter and OCV Solenoid
12. Serpentine Belt
Added via Edit:
13. Accessory belt tensioner pulley. Doesn't feel smooth
14. Denso plugs
15. Plug wires
15. Coil packs
16. Coil / plug wire connectors
17. PCV Valve

Considering:
1. Thermostat


What else should I plan to replace while I'm at it? I'll spin the pulleys on the serpentine belt to see if any feel old. Are any of them known to go bad?

Who makes the J2Z OEM water pump? Is it AISIN? I'm looking at this kit:
Amazon Amazon



2JZ-GE. Does anyone know what bolt size / pitch to use for a pulley puller to take off the harmonic balancer / crank pulley? Ditto for the bolt size to remove the crank timing gear that's in the way of the crankshaft seal.

Thanks so much! If you know of any writeups on this work, please post away.

Last edited by funditor; 03-16-19 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 03-12-19, 08:08 PM
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When reassembling the metal half-circle blocks that retain the cam pulley gaskets, do you apply a sealant between them and the engine? If so, a high temperature silicone based gasket seal?
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Old 03-13-19, 09:43 PM
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Get the AISIN water pump, it is the OEM supplier for Toyota. I would order the kit from rockauto, look for a 5% off coupon and check out other parts you may need to get it all done and ordered at one time. I would avoid ebay due to knock off parts.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...1356061,engine
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Old 03-14-19, 06:45 AM
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You don't have to remove the cam caps to replace the seal. Use a seal puller and then lightly oil the inside of the new seals and push them in. You can do it that way if you want I guess, but have the torque specs for them. Here is a link to the type of puller I use for cam and crank seals. You will need something like this for the crank seal anyway.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=asc_df_B000FPYW4K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065537890&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9598722887101807045&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031297&hvtargid=pla-633100651832&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=asc_df_B000FPYW4K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065537890&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9598722887101807045&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031297&hvtargid=pla-633100651832&psc=1

I recommend replacing the harmonic damper. It's at that age now where it's bound to give out eventually. Powerbond from Dayco is probably the best value as far as price for a quality unit. Stay away from the $50 ebay junk. On the subject of the balancer. Do you have a Harbor Freight near by? I bought their kit when I started out and surprise, I'm still using it 10 years later. So it's actually a great kit if used right. I used it on my GS and you will also need it for the crank sprocket to get to the crank seal. Here is a link to one I recommend if you're not near one. I've found Astro to be a great budget tools company. Far better build quality than competing price range.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7846-Harmonic-Balancer-Puller/dp/B00061SGLS/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3J5CYYJ5JTOQR&keywords=balancer+puller&qid=1552567752&s=automotive&sprefix=ballancer+pull%2Cautomotive%2C220&sr=1-9 https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7846-Harmonic-Balancer-Puller/dp/B00061SGLS/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3J5CYYJ5JTOQR&keywords=balancer+puller&qid=1552567752&s=automotive&sprefix=ballancer+pull%2Cautomotive%2C220&sr=1-9

You are going to have a hell of a time with the VVTi seal. I replaced the seal a few times trying to save money. First it wouldn't seal right, then it never worked right. Threw codes for the VVTi systems performance. I ended up getting a Toyota replacement. Got lucky and found genuine being sold for cheap. But I'm suggesting that you may want to just replace it... I watched all the videos etc.. but I find them very vague and you actually don't have any updates as to how the job went after. Just the process to do the job. I have an entire shop at my disposal and could't make this work. If you can, good on you. But you may find yourself taking the timing system back apart. Just my honest opinion.

Lastly, removing the radiator is necessary for the job of removing the damper safely. It may be a good time to replace with a new one if it looks old. I know all this stuff makes the job more expensive than you planned. But it is nice when it's done right the first time, and no surprises when you are in the middle of a job and see that other parts need replaced. Then you have to pay retail because you need the car back together and can't wait to order them. Take some time and use a mirror and flashlight and really look your car over before ordering your parts list. Look at the plastic side tanks of the radiator for signs of residue, and the rubber elastomer on the balancer for any protrusion/separation/cracking. You are going to have full access to your spark plugs, wires, throttle, and pcv valve when going after the valve covers. Now is the the time to replace anything necessary and clean out the throttle. Look at your heater lines for aging/cracks etc. Now is the time to have all these things ready. You will have the coolant out of the system anyway. Now is the time to check for soft squishy radiator hoses etc. Anyways, thats my recommendation. Look your car over well and have a good plan on what you'll need.
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Old 03-14-19, 08:11 AM
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You'll need form-in-place-gasket for the valve cover
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post10465194


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Old 03-16-19, 10:21 AM
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Thanks guys! Liquid gasket, huh? Cool, that will be new for me.

The reason I'm thinking of pulling the valve covers instead of pulling the cam gaskets out through the covers is that with the valve cover removed, you can grab the camshaft with an adjustable wrench to freeze the pulley and undo the pulley bolts. I kind of want to make a chain tool to hold the pulleys for fun, but I don't want to risk marring the pulley teeth and causing damage to the timing belt.

If there's no other maintenance worth doing with the valve covers off, I could buy an impact wrench instead. I'll get the seal puller too.

Originally Posted by TrueGS300 View Post
Dayco is probably the best value as far as price for a quality unit.
rockauto sells Dayco DAYCO PB1174N for $227. Dayco calls it "Premium OEM Replacement Balancer". Versus the Toyota website $466. But the Toyota part has lasted for 20 years, and has no issue that I know of. Before this, I hadn't heard of needing to replace balancers.

For reference, Lexus calls it PN 13407:
https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus_1999...340746020.html


Originally Posted by TrueGS300 View Post
Do you have a Harbor Freight near by?
Oh yeah, pilgrimage to HF is coming up soon. Will pick up their pulley remover.


Originally Posted by TrueGS300 View Post
You are going to have a hell of a time with the VVTi seal. I replaced the seal a few times trying to save money. First it wouldn't seal right, then it never worked right. Threw codes for the VVTi systems performance. ...But you may find yourself taking the timing system back apart.
That's really good to hear. Do you know what part you had problems with or did it go back together fine, but just never work right?

Watching JeffTsai's video, it seems really straightforward. I was going to use a carbide scribe to mark all the alignments before undoing the component so that it could go back together exactly. But it might not be worth the trouble.

Lexus website lists two camshaft pulleys, LH and RH:

RH, $82. https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus_1999...352346030.html
LH, $263. https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus_1999...305046010.html

The VVTI pulley is on the driver's side, so I'm going with "LH" $263. Versus an O-Ring. Did anyone else have a bad experience with doing a VVT Cam Pulley rebuild?



Originally Posted by TrueGS300 View Post
Take some time and use a mirror and flashlight and really look your car over before ordering your parts list. Look at the plastic side tanks of the radiator for signs of residue, and the rubber elastomer on the balancer for any protrusion/separation/cracking. You are going to have full access to your spark plugs, wires, throttle, and pcv valve when going after the valve covers. Now is the the time to replace anything necessary and clean out the throttle. Look at your heater lines for aging/cracks etc. Now is the time to have all these things ready. You will have the coolant out of the system anyway. Now is the time to check for soft squishy radiator hoses etc. Anyways, thats my recommendation. Look your car over well and have a good plan on what you'll need.
Good advice. Putting all the work in, might just end up with this car forever.
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Old 03-16-19, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by shwalker07 View Post
Get the AISIN water pump, it is the OEM supplier for Toyota.
Glad to hear AISIN is the OEM. Hope it's the same quality used in Toyota. A water pump spontaneously failed on another car of mine recently (Volvo, uses AISIN) and the damage destroyed the engine (timing belt slipped off of seized water pump pulley).
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Old 03-16-19, 10:40 AM
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Yes, FIPG, (form in place gasket). OEM is black instead of grey.
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Old 03-16-19, 10:42 AM
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Spark Plug tube seals in Valve Cover.
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Old 03-16-19, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ds24y View Post
Yes, FIPG, (form in place gasket). OEM is black instead of grey.
For anyone reading this in the future, the idea is to put the FIPG on the corners like shown in 10' in this video:
or this one:


For anyone reading this in the future: A gasket kit including the rubber washers that degrade over time:
https://www.driftmotion.com/2JZ-GE-V...t-p/dm2413.htm

Lexus "Gasket Cylinder Head Cover"
Intake Side:
https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus_1999...121446011.html
Exhaust Side:
https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus_1999...121346030.html

I can see oil around the entire top of the engine where the valve cover goes on, including the back where the VVT cam leak couldn't be responsible, so I'm going to pull the valve covers.


Other tips from the videos:
1. Have plug / coil connectors on hand since the old ones tend to be brittle and break. I've heard that elsewhere as well.
2. There's a metal gasket between the intake and throttle body that can be replaced. Y-Pipes

Spark Plug tube seals in Valve Cover.
Posters suggest that there aren't any tube seals in this engine:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ube-seals.html

I guess there are rubber pieces on the tray that divides the spark plug wires. But this isn't making an actual seal, so no need to replace.
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Old 03-16-19, 01:08 PM
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Spun all the accessory pulleys and they feel good. Tensioner pulley is slightly rough and needs to be replaced.

Clear visible degradation to the outside of the harmonic balancer. Surprised to see that the face that contacts the belt is not made of metal. I thought harmonic balancers were a metal-rubber-metal sandwich. But in my harmonic balancer, the surface that contacts the pulley has small cracks and a section that looks like a dog chewed on it. Photo included for reference.

Didn't realize that on 2JZ, the throttle body blocks access to plugs, wires, and coils. Good thing they're so reliable. Time to replace them while TB is off.
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Old 03-16-19, 06:57 PM
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Ya that balancer looks pretty bad. I've had balancers go out on two of my cars. Both caused sever engine damage. On my 98 Eclipse GST it dug back into the timing belt and caused the valves to hit pistons and I had to rebuild the head. My C5 vette it dug back destroying the front cover and oil pan. I learned to use ATI dampers when making 600+whp lol. I saw some age when I did the timing on my GS and thought, best to not let this happen again, so I got the Dayco. The one you are looking at on Rock Auto is the same one btw.

As far as the VVTi. I had no trouble putting the seal in, it just didn't work lol. And the code would come up at freeway speeds randomly. I just said screw it and bought a new one. But like I said, I got lucky and found a OEM Toyota for $80 on ebay.
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Old 03-16-19, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ds24y View Post
Spark Plug tube seals in Valve Cover.
There are no tube seals on the 2JZ. The plug valley is separate from the two valve covers
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Old 03-19-19, 02:12 PM
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I was thinking about replacing the o rings but now hearing your opinion makes me rethink and just purchase a new one. This is my friend's car she had the Timing Belt done almost a year ago and didn't mention to me about the oil leak which is strange because I would think whoever did the job would have noticed the timing cover being soaked with oil. I would have recommended valve cover gaskets, Cam/Crank Seals, Water Pump. I did do the Valve Cover gaskets, Plugs/Wires and an ignition coil that was failing. All of that is now dry ��. Now I'm faced with the seals and the VVT Pulley...Might as well do the water pump since that wasn't done either. The question I have am I better off removing the valve covers and inserting some tool to keep the cams from moving? Thanks Also has anyone been successful at installing led on their DRL and keeping both high beam and DRL functionality?
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Old 03-19-19, 02:30 PM
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ahill,

If you remove the valve cover, it's easy to immobilize the cam by putting an adjustable wrench over the flattened section of the cam shaft. Is that "worth it"? Depends on whether:
1. You have any other reason to remove the valve covers or TB. In my case, it's leaking, so that's a reason.
2. You have another way to remove the cam pulleys. Impact gun or pulley holder that won't damage the teeth.


Good luck
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