Best sequence to replace front suspension parts?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: SC
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Best sequence to replace front suspension parts?
2000 GS400 I purchased this car couple of years ago with 250k on it.
At 271k now and will be replacing the struts, control arms, ball joints, tie rods, rotors, and whatever other bushings you recommend with OEM parts. I hope to tighten up the steering, improve the front end handling, and eliminate the clunking over bumps.
Is there an order in which to replace all of these parts that makes the process the most efficient? Hope to do one side in a day.
Thanks in advance!
At 271k now and will be replacing the struts, control arms, ball joints, tie rods, rotors, and whatever other bushings you recommend with OEM parts. I hope to tighten up the steering, improve the front end handling, and eliminate the clunking over bumps.
Is there an order in which to replace all of these parts that makes the process the most efficient? Hope to do one side in a day.
Thanks in advance!
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: SC
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To clarify my original question: easier to do shock then upper control arm then lower control arm OR vice versa OR pull everything off then replace? OR some other sequence?
#4
I'm not sure oem would be worth it... struts alone, just for the parts, would be $1k? The only part I'd prescribe would be the lower ball joints. Speaking of which...
Lower ball joints, immediately, not in any order. Google the images of failures.
Because of budget, our order was lower ball joints (prevention), then struts (dangerous up/down harmonics over potholes), then upper control arms (motion).... just note, that the struts have to come out to do the upper control arms. That got rid of 99% of any looseness, anything else would be to get rid of the 1% of thunk, such as sway bar links, or lower control arm(s). We don't see any wear on the outer tie-rod ends, yet we'll do those, one day, yet that requires an alignment, that's why we're putting that off.
As per an afternoon, depends on if you do bare or quick struts. We did bare (frighteningly inexpensive, for the 4 struts), and it took us 1/2 day just to do the struts.
After that, it was the rotors/pads and one seized caliper, to get rid of dangerous left/right steering wheel wiggle, yet now the car tracks almost like-new, at (ahem) highway speeds. There's other bushings we could do, yet for 200k+ miles, it's a great highway car, now.
Lower ball joints, immediately, not in any order. Google the images of failures.
Because of budget, our order was lower ball joints (prevention), then struts (dangerous up/down harmonics over potholes), then upper control arms (motion).... just note, that the struts have to come out to do the upper control arms. That got rid of 99% of any looseness, anything else would be to get rid of the 1% of thunk, such as sway bar links, or lower control arm(s). We don't see any wear on the outer tie-rod ends, yet we'll do those, one day, yet that requires an alignment, that's why we're putting that off.
As per an afternoon, depends on if you do bare or quick struts. We did bare (frighteningly inexpensive, for the 4 struts), and it took us 1/2 day just to do the struts.
After that, it was the rotors/pads and one seized caliper, to get rid of dangerous left/right steering wheel wiggle, yet now the car tracks almost like-new, at (ahem) highway speeds. There's other bushings we could do, yet for 200k+ miles, it's a great highway car, now.
#5
You don't need to remove the upper control arm to remove the lower, nor the inverse. You can replace the lower ball joints without removing anything else. You can remove the upper or lower control arm without removing the strut but it's a lot easier to take everything out.
What you should actually be doing is looking up instructions or a manual, since how to do this work has been covered a lot already.
What you should actually be doing is looking up instructions or a manual, since how to do this work has been covered a lot already.
#6
You don't need to remove the upper control arm to remove the lower, nor the inverse. You can replace the lower ball joints without removing anything else. You can remove the upper or lower control arm without removing the strut but it's a lot easier to take everything out.
What you should actually be doing is looking up instructions or a manual, since how to do this work has been covered a lot already.
What you should actually be doing is looking up instructions or a manual, since how to do this work has been covered a lot already.
Have you removed the upper control arms without removing the struts?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kambam3627
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
21
07-01-19 03:33 PM