'91 Front Suspension Knocking
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 28
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From: NY
'91 Front Suspension Knocking
The car had a factory air suspension and while it did, there was a knocking sound in the front suspension that sounded like a shot strut mount (a problem i had in another car). Upon converting to regular struts, the sound got even worse. I'm thinking either sway bar end links or upper control arms. Any ideas? Thanks.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: NY
I had it jacked up and checked everything nothing seemed loose and all bushings seemed ok. I ordered sway bar end links and I think I will get the bushings that hold the bar to the frame or w.e. it is bolted to. I will take it from there and see how it is after that. Thanks guys I wish parts for this thing weren't so expensive.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Canada
Arnott. I know, I read your thread, but for the price I figured I might as well give em a shot. If they're no good I can send them back and try something else. I plan on only having the car another year or two anyways at most.
Plus, in Canada we have it bad for parts ($$$$).
Plus, in Canada we have it bad for parts ($$$$).
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Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: MA
Keep your fingers crossed. I'd be interested to know how they fit. I'd appreciate you posting the results. The UCA ball joint nuts need to torque up to 48ftlbs. As you know, the problem I had was that I reached the end of the threads before I could get them to that torque and the cotter pin hole was 1/2 below the castle nut. The two UCA bolts into the frame need to be torqued to 83ft lbs, just so you know...
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Canada
Keep your fingers crossed. I'd be interested to know how they fit. I'd appreciate you posting the results. The UCA ball joint nuts need to torque up to 48ftlbs. As you know, the problem I had was that I reached the end of the threads before I could get them to that torque and the cotter pin hole was 1/2 below the castle nut. The two UCA bolts into the frame need to be torqued to 83ft lbs, just so you know...
So I did the entire install today. Was able to torque the ball joints properly but the castle nut and cotter pin were still not flush. I ended up using a washer on both sides.
Pretty crappy quality for UCA, however, well worth it for me.
I figure I'll make sure to lube the boots once a month or so.
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From: MA
Thanks for posting your result Max Power. I'd keep a close eye on them. Depending on the inside / opening diameter of the washer you put on the top of the knuckle and if it's seated on the taper, it may loosen over time. In my case, the taper never seated and the shoulder at the end of the taper, which is maybe 5mm larger than the top of the taper is what it seated on.
I ended up finding replacement urethane boots for my original Arnott UCA's and I reinstalled them with the new boots a couple of weeks ago. The urethane boot is much thicker than the original. Here's a pic of the original Arnott UCA with the urethane replacement boot installed on the car.
I ended up finding replacement urethane boots for my original Arnott UCA's and I reinstalled them with the new boots a couple of weeks ago. The urethane boot is much thicker than the original. Here's a pic of the original Arnott UCA with the urethane replacement boot installed on the car.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 163
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From: Canada
Thanks for posting your result Max Power. I'd keep a close eye on them. Depending on the inside / opening diameter of the washer you put on the top of the knuckle and if it's seated on the taper, it may loosen over time. In my case, the taper never seated and the shoulder at the end of the taper, which is maybe 5mm larger than the top of the taper is what it seated on.
I ended up finding replacement urethane boots for my original Arnott UCA's and I reinstalled them with the new boots a couple of weeks ago. The urethane boot is much thicker than the original. Here's a pic of the original Arnott UCA with the urethane replacement boot installed on the car.
I ended up finding replacement urethane boots for my original Arnott UCA's and I reinstalled them with the new boots a couple of weeks ago. The urethane boot is much thicker than the original. Here's a pic of the original Arnott UCA with the urethane replacement boot installed on the car.
So far everything is holding on together very well and the drive is so much nicer. My cotter pins are holding and I check both sides pretty much after every drive.
I don't expect they will loosen at all but I guess anything can happen...
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