I've been searching for a while now and have found very little info on these cars having leaking differentials so hopefully this fix isn't too involved.

So my driver's side axle is leaking fluid pretty badly. I'm hoping it just a seal but looking at the exploded diagrams I'm unsure which part or parts I'll need to patch this up and the over all process entailed in replacing. I've done the front CV on my 00 Tundra before and assumed it would be a similar process but haven't found a DIY or ever many threads on the topic. Here are a few pics I took yesterday, was in a rush so not sure if they're the best angles but can take more if needed.

Drive side axle

All the schmoo under the pan


Can anyone advise on how they'd tackle this?

 

This looks really peculiar to me. Usually leaking oil based fluids from a car appear mostly black. The pictures seem to suggest a streak of rust. Has your car been sitting for long periods of time? Did you happen to get the rear end submerged in water somehow? Differential fluid is quite thick and leaks very slowly so it is odd that you are seeing it leak "badly" Does the rear end make a lot of noise.

I would get under the car and clean the area thoroughly removing all of the rust stains. Check the fluid level. If you remove the fill plug on the side of the diff the fluid should just barely trickle out. After that monitor it for a while to see exactly where and what is leaking. If in fact there is a leak it may be simplest to put in a used diff. Used ones are typically not much more than a couple of hundred dollars.

 

The car has sat for a bit, I'm not sure for how long. PO had about 10 cars. There is alot of road noise but I have had a separate issue with correct tire fitment and shaking on the HW that I remedied with smaller wheels. The tires arent in the best shape though and cause alot of noise. Will be seeking some in better shape tomorrow.

I'm trying to look for diffs on car-parts.com is there any noticeable different between models? SC430 LS430 etc? I've seen some talk about the TT supra diff, would that be something to consider if I'm pulling the old one out anyway?

 

I am not absolutely positive but I am reasonably sure the SC and LS diffs of the same era are the same. I assume you have either a gs400 or a gs430. I believe the GS300 has a different gear ratio though it is physically the same housing and will fit right in. If you find a TT supra diff it will also fit if it is from an automatic car but the chances of finding one are next to nil. It will also cost you significantly more money.

 

So I sprayed degreaser and power washed the diff. Then drain and filled it. Magnet had some residue on it but not globs or anything chunky. Checked yesterday and is still leaking pretty good and definitely coming from the driver side axle.

I can get a sc430diff for $100, i assume a oem seal will be $30. Would replacing the diff be that much more work? Should I trust a junk yard diff or just fix mine since I could run into the same problem with a different known condition one?

 

I would just put a different differential in there. There are actually multiple seals so unless you have a discount at the dealer it could total well over 30. Plus you have to pretty much take the diff out anyways to change that seal. At least drop it which means disconnecting a bunch of stuff anyways and need some special tools to pull the side flange off, press out bearing, etc. Now that I think about it you probably will have to completely take it out.

I say trust a used diff because your problem is pretty rare and never seen or heard of it before. Also, youre not guaranteed to fix the problem if you replace the seal. It could be multiple issues like the bearing (more $$) and/or rust that created a tiny crack in the housing past the seals. You have no idea what you'll find in there. Then while it is apart youll have wished for a different diff housing all together. Also, when i took my diff out for the LSD, my driver side was clicking too when the diff was out and spun that side. Glad I got rid of it.

 

Fair assessment. Anything else i should tackle while doing this job? PM or upgrades? Suspension, bushings, CV axles etc? I briefly read about adding a LSD but not sure that's really worth the trouble for my needs.

 

run into a snag


I can't get the axles off, I think they're catching on the exhaust which from my understanding should be in pieces but it looks like it was all welded together up to the cats. I'm not sure where to go from here.

I tried taking the axle nut off the hub but it won't budge either. It looks like the procedure is for the inward part to come loose first....

I could cut the exhaust but 1) Not sure if that's going to help 2) Don't really want to bring it to a muffler shop and pay to have it reattached

I could take apart the whole rear suspension but too but I'll need a hub remover for the outer and likely a slide hammer for inner right?

Guess I just answered my own question but any input is always appreciated

 

...looks like there may be too much tension on the inner joint, try jacking the diff back up and pry, muscle and persuade that inner joint off.

It was not a issues for me when I removed the inner joint for a charcoal canister R&R, but I do remember I had to use some force and pry that baby off.

Don't know if this helps but here is a page from the FSM...GOOD LUCK

 

I tried it all angles but I'll give it another go. What did you use to pry it and where did you place it? I tried hammering a screw driver inbetween them but it was too fat, I can get a pry bar but I dont see where it'll fit to get enough grip.

 

When I put my LSD in, I didnt unbolt any exhaust just lowered it. A pry bar and screwdriver were no help for me. I got mad and whacked the axles out by twisting the diff and smacking the driver side with a huge 5lb steel mallet.

 

How'd your axles hold up after that?

 

I had a similar issue when I tried to change out the VSV charcoal canister. I couldn't separate the axle from the diff. I gave up and just keep resetting the occasional CEL that pops up for the charcoal canister.

I would be interested to know what finally works for you so I can give it another try.

 

Going to try that 5lb hammer trick. I'll let you know how it goes.

Wondering if I should change the canister while everythings out, dont want to drop the dough for it though...

 

Hammer worked like a charm. Diff in and pulling strong. Now what do I do with this rusty *** old one? Think I'm going to taking it apart for ****s and giggles. Maybe see where the leak was coming from