Hey guys. New here to the community. I'm looking for some help with installing this wideband. Long story short. My daughter got in the car and messed with the tune on my apexi safc II. Now im scared tp drive the thing under any kind of load of fear it may be leaned out on my hi throttle map.

So my question is do i need all of the factory o2 sensors. It seems like a little overkill and it would prevent me from having to take it to my dads to drill and weld. I had an idea of splicing the wire from 2 to make one feed signal to both inputs. If that makes any sense. I did some research and found a forum about
it. But didnt know if it would apply to my specific car. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-375094.html

 

Are those after market headers, they look stock? how much hp gain did you get with the tune? any other mods? sorry i can not be of any help but i have a gs3 i was looking to tune, wanna know if it is worth it. thanks

 

Yes it is a alpha werks header. And im not sure of the specs due to not having it on a dyno yet. I will later on. It has larger injectors, d2 coilovers, d2 8 pot front brake kit, K&n intake and the apexi piggy back. But there is a noticable difference with a tune. Having a way to tune is always nice while adding new parts in the mix to really tell the difference. I am not a huge fan of piggyback tuners as i have always delt with standalone managament.
the reason i have the piggyback is because i came across it cheap and it was a easy way to turn down the bigger injectors. So in short tuning is always worth it. But it comes at a cost and i do not think retail for a new piggyback is worth it. But for a second hand deal they are great. Just my opinion.

 

Maybe just keep in mind that with out going forced induction, that full bolt ons, and a perfect tune you will still only get 190-200 (being generous) wheel horse power on a 3,800lb car with most drivers in it. The mods might feel "more responsive" but it won't increase your 0-60 or 1/4 mile by anything significant you can measure.

You also didn't need new injectors as they would never come close to maxing out even with all the above mods. They are already 250cc each and will never come close to 95-100% duty cycle. To put this in perspective, my engine makes 290 wheel horse power with stock 250cc injectors (yes the v8 gs and I6 2nd gen gs have same size injectors) and aren't close to being maxed at all. Another point is that the less cylinders you have, the bigger injectors you need for the same amount of horse power. But the fact that they didn't put anything larger than 250cc shows this again.

If you think your tune got messed up and are pulling too much fuel, even with the now larger injectors, at full throttle, then simply add some fuel back.

But to answer your question for the wideband, never tap into O2 sensors unless you have too. Most have stainless steel wire that is next to impossible to solder on. Also, if you were to splice it into it, perfectly to another system, you risk changing the impedance and resistance values of the O2 sensor its self. This could give you codes AND false readings on the wideband.

 

Thank you for the reply. The injectors are due to going turbo very soon. Still building the kit and saving for the standalone. The injectors were supposed to sit with the other parts. But the car had sat for so long the factory injectors were getting stuck open and shut. So rather than buy a set of factorys i just put the larger ones i already had on the shelf in.

But i knew the solder joint would change the resistance signal. I didnt know if anyone around had found a way to get around it. Is there anyway to change the aem wideband output from the gauge to 0-1volt so that the ecu would read it like the factory momentary switch of a narrowband?

 

thanks gs400v8. i just bought the srt intake too, i also have a cat back & mid pipe, the only real bolt on i am missing is the header. wanted to know what i was looking at if i got that. is it worth getting an adjustable cam gear?

 

You could drill a hole, weld a bung on and install the wideband downstream.

 

yeah i was trying to avoid it since there are already so many sensors in my exhaust. I was hoping i could splice 2 factorys together or run the output of the gauge to the ecu. But i dont know if our ecus will read a 5 volt signal or just the 1 volt.

If all else fails, then i will be welding a bung on it.

 

No problem SoCal. Bolt-ons are fine, but the last thing I would do is the cam gear. The stock VVTi setup is very efficient, and uses various sensors to measure differences between the cam, vvti, and crank sensors to triangulate points. It can tell that the VVTi is doing the correct thing and advancing the intake cams over 4,000rpm by using the VVTi sensor, and measuring that against the timing difference between that and the Cam sensor, which should be spinning the same speed as the crank sensor ONLY on the exhaust sides above 4,000rpm because the intake and exhaust cams are run off eachother in a hypoid/helical type gear setup via the timing belt off the crank. Under 4,000rpm then all intake, exhaust, and crankshaft should be rotating at the same speed. This is how the V8 calculates it, and the I6 does it a little differently but the end result is the same. Long story short, unless your making 450 or maybe even 500 + horsepower, you won't need any adjustability of the cams because you won't be getting knock/detonation or advance/retard problems.

NAgs300, okay that makes sense if you plan on going turbo down the road. Well, you could try to trick it, but it might not work, and then you will get check engine lights, and the gauge might not work. You would also have hacked up wiring, and might have to end up buying a whole new O2 sensor.

I would just use a center punch, drill a hole, and weld that 18mm x 1.5 bung. But I wouldn't install it until you have the turbo in unless you want to possibly do it twice. The headers and whole front of the exhaust will be different with a turbo in there, so the space you have will change. Unless you put it way out of the way and downstream with plenty of length wire, but you want it somewhere it will get a good reading. You also don't want to mount it from the bottom of the pipe sticking up, because that is bad for moisture. When you have the turbo in there, you will know exactly where to put it.

 

Yeah, if its not a for sure thing then i dont want to be the test dummy. Would hate to hack up something that already works. Haha where is the safest distance on the N/A 2jz while still getting a good reading. And i already did my test fit on turbo and down pipe and welded my bung on it. I did 16" from turbo on it. I just based that on my old rb20 setup. But I've never had to mount one on a n/a motor. I would assume its best to put it right at the collector on the header so i can read all cylinders. But please correct me if that assumption is wrong.

 

Haha yeah that's not fun. Yeah 16" to 18" is normal, but you'll have to work with what you got. You can kind of get a feel for it by your old setup, but basically you just want it close enough to get a good reading and not be overheated while being not too far, more chance of moisture as well as bad readings

 

Thanks for the help. I do have one more question. Not sure if you can help me with this or not. But i was thinking about adding a throttle body when i go turbo and was wondering what your recommendations were for brand vs price.

 

No problem! You can ask as many questions as you want.
Well, I have a little knowledge from the 2JZGTE guys as well as the R32 GTR guys.
On the boosted 2JZs the stock throttle bodies really only become a restriction at around 600HP.
Few people get to this much power because a standalone with huge injectors is usually best here, as well as a beefy transmission.
On the GTR, the older models had 485HP and the new ones have 565HP.
They both had 2.3" inner diameter throttle bodys (I think the 2JZs are larger than that stock), and only became a restriction at around 800HP in which they increased this to 2.8".
Its said to really increase gains over 800hp, but especially over 1000hp.
If that car didn't need them, I would say that boosted 2JZs under 500hp definitely don't need one.
But if you do get one I don't think it would hurt, it just might lack a little bit at partial throttle or cruising
I don't know what is the best out there aftermarket wise

 

If you start touching things like the intake manifold, throttle body etc, you're changing the geometry of the intake track and bigger is not always better. You have to tune that to your engine and know what you're doing otherwise you might take a big chunk out of your low end and mid range for a miniscule gain at the top end. If you want to do that, what I would do is maybe port and polish the throttle body.

 

The only reason i ask is i have been looking at intakes manifolds. For cosmetic appeal to be completely honest. But i noticed that so many of them have throttle bodies. I wasnt sure if there was a reason for that as far as the factory one having a weak point. So they are all probably stock size just billet instead of cast?