blower only works with 10a heater fuse removed??
#1
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blower only works with 10a heater fuse removed??
I found two other guys on this forum that had this issue but one of them never posted whether he solved it and the other rigged some hack job wiring.
But yeah. Unless I remove the 10A heater fuse from the driver side fuse panel, there is no power to the blower. In fact, the hot wire to the resistor/controller (blue/black) goes to ground when that fuse is in. I verified this with a multimeter.
I would really like some input on how to tell where the problem is. Where should I stick the multimeter and what should I look for?
My last few threads of mine have gone ignored. Please help me out this time, I would like to get SOMETHING fixed.
But yeah. Unless I remove the 10A heater fuse from the driver side fuse panel, there is no power to the blower. In fact, the hot wire to the resistor/controller (blue/black) goes to ground when that fuse is in. I verified this with a multimeter.
I would really like some input on how to tell where the problem is. Where should I stick the multimeter and what should I look for?
My last few threads of mine have gone ignored. Please help me out this time, I would like to get SOMETHING fixed.
Last edited by eicca; 08-03-16 at 12:40 PM.
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Number one place to start: what does the 10A heater fuse have in its circuit, and how are any of those related to the function of the heater relay?
Second question: what would cause the heater relay to ground the hot wire under one condition but connect it properly to the 12v source under another? Is the relay capable of receiving an incorrect signal? Is there something else between the relay and 50A fuse that would cause it to go to ground instead of positive?
#4
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One more piece to the puzzle: I'm only getting 6v and 0.1 amps at the aforementioned "heater" fuse. And when the car is off I'm getting -6v and -0.1a. That doesn't sound normal.
#5
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Thread Starter
For the information of those who have this same issue, this is how you solve it:
Going into junction plug 2F, which is the lowest left plug on the passenger fuse panel, there is a purple wire, which goes into pin 12. Cut this purple wire ground it from the end coming out of the cable wrap. Do not ground the end coming out of the plug or you will blow your ECU-B2 fuse.
Some people say changing the body ECU solves the problem, others say it doesn't. In any case, having the ECU control whether or not the purple wire goes to ground is redundant. Cut it and ground it, and the blower should function normally, unless there are other problems elsewhere...
Going into junction plug 2F, which is the lowest left plug on the passenger fuse panel, there is a purple wire, which goes into pin 12. Cut this purple wire ground it from the end coming out of the cable wrap. Do not ground the end coming out of the plug or you will blow your ECU-B2 fuse.
Some people say changing the body ECU solves the problem, others say it doesn't. In any case, having the ECU control whether or not the purple wire goes to ground is redundant. Cut it and ground it, and the blower should function normally, unless there are other problems elsewhere...
Last edited by eicca; 06-04-17 at 11:08 AM.
#7
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Thread Starter
Learned all this from the EWD.
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#9
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Some people said a new B-ECU fixed their problem and some said it didn't. Nothing else whatsoever is wrong in the car, so the cut-n-splice fix is a much better solution for me than throwing parts and money at it.
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