Interesting Problem
#1
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Interesting Problem
Where I Start? Oh from here.
Bought a 2000 GS300 with about 132k Miles. For a year, oil was leaking. Found out where it was leaking from - valve cover gaskets. Since I was doing that, I decided to do a Timing belt job. Things that were changed -
Timing Belt ( duh lol), water pump, thermostat, valve cover gaskets, rebuilt VVTI gear, spark plugs,
left the main seal since it looks in good condition, changed the O rings, changed Oil and ATF fluid.
Now car was running fine except for a ATF leak from the lower lines at the bottom of the radiator. I said what the heck, bought a new radiator from online ( turns out it wasn't a DENSO even thought it said it was...) and two new ATF lines from Autozone. Car was running fine..
Till it overheated on the highway. Pulled over - Radiator and reservoir totally empty. Filled it back up drove home, double checked it and a coolant line was loose. Also changed the crank pulley since it was basically falling out. Fixed that and car was running fine again.
Next couple days, Idle started going HORRIBLE. Bunch of codes, misfires all over, ABS codes, etc etc. My coil pack wiring and connectors were shot to begin with, so I found a guy who cut the whole coil pack harness with connectors (almost brand new condition) and swapped that in. Cleared the codes and started driving. I should say before I did that, it was going into limp mode. So back to the story, coil pack wiring and connectors are changed. About to pull out the driveway, put it in D, Idle starts going horrible again ( no shutting off) and CEL starts flashing. Drive around a bit (WOT at one point, car picks up FINE with CEL flashing), drive back to my house, while pulling into the driveway flashing CEL goes OFF. Now usually, when I put it P or N, car idles fine, but now in all gears, its shaking the whole car, and idle is erratic. Also, no codes to pull since no CEL ( btw I did swap coil packs around and sparks are getting spark).
Any ideas?
Bought a 2000 GS300 with about 132k Miles. For a year, oil was leaking. Found out where it was leaking from - valve cover gaskets. Since I was doing that, I decided to do a Timing belt job. Things that were changed -
Timing Belt ( duh lol), water pump, thermostat, valve cover gaskets, rebuilt VVTI gear, spark plugs,
left the main seal since it looks in good condition, changed the O rings, changed Oil and ATF fluid.
Now car was running fine except for a ATF leak from the lower lines at the bottom of the radiator. I said what the heck, bought a new radiator from online ( turns out it wasn't a DENSO even thought it said it was...) and two new ATF lines from Autozone. Car was running fine..
Till it overheated on the highway. Pulled over - Radiator and reservoir totally empty. Filled it back up drove home, double checked it and a coolant line was loose. Also changed the crank pulley since it was basically falling out. Fixed that and car was running fine again.
Next couple days, Idle started going HORRIBLE. Bunch of codes, misfires all over, ABS codes, etc etc. My coil pack wiring and connectors were shot to begin with, so I found a guy who cut the whole coil pack harness with connectors (almost brand new condition) and swapped that in. Cleared the codes and started driving. I should say before I did that, it was going into limp mode. So back to the story, coil pack wiring and connectors are changed. About to pull out the driveway, put it in D, Idle starts going horrible again ( no shutting off) and CEL starts flashing. Drive around a bit (WOT at one point, car picks up FINE with CEL flashing), drive back to my house, while pulling into the driveway flashing CEL goes OFF. Now usually, when I put it P or N, car idles fine, but now in all gears, its shaking the whole car, and idle is erratic. Also, no codes to pull since no CEL ( btw I did swap coil packs around and sparks are getting spark).
Any ideas?
Last edited by NYGS300; 04-28-16 at 05:01 PM.
#3
Japanese Tuning in Plain English
Sounds like your ignition timing is out of control and going all over the place. Excessive Retarded timing will develop misfire, shaking and cause the car to run hot. Your getting spark ... but just at the wrong time. Your Crank Pulley is moving...
Therefore your Crank Pulley Locating Wedge or "Wood-ruff key" is probably missing and causing your pulley to slip on the Crankshaft. You must have lost yours... It's a half-moon shaped wedge that fits in the groove of the Crankshaft and Crank pulley so that they are locked together or in sync.
Luckily your bolt seems to be tight enough to somehow hold the pulley within a range that makes it driveable and no CEL.... but its not going to hold. Seriously, STOP driving it now...it's (pulley)gonna break free and the results will be catastrophic... in fact try not to start anymore it until you put a new "wood-druff key" back in. Probably cost you $6
Therefore your Crank Pulley Locating Wedge or "Wood-ruff key" is probably missing and causing your pulley to slip on the Crankshaft. You must have lost yours... It's a half-moon shaped wedge that fits in the groove of the Crankshaft and Crank pulley so that they are locked together or in sync.
Luckily your bolt seems to be tight enough to somehow hold the pulley within a range that makes it driveable and no CEL.... but its not going to hold. Seriously, STOP driving it now...it's (pulley)gonna break free and the results will be catastrophic... in fact try not to start anymore it until you put a new "wood-druff key" back in. Probably cost you $6
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Sounds like your ignition timing is out of control and going all over the place. Excessive Retarded timing will develop misfire, shaking and cause the car to run hot. Your getting spark ... but just at the wrong time. Your Crank Pulley is moving...
Therefore your Crank Pulley Locating Wedge or "Wood-ruff key" is probably missing and causing your pulley to slip on the Crankshaft. You must have lost yours... It's a half-moon shaped wedge that fits in the groove of the Crankshaft and Crank pulley so that they are locked together or in sync.
Luckily your bolt seems to be tight enough to somehow hold the pulley within a range that makes it driveable and no CEL.... but its not going to hold. Seriously, STOP driving it now...it's (pulley)gonna break free and the results will be catastrophic... in fact try not to start anymore it until you put a new "wood-druff key" back in. Probably cost you $6
Therefore your Crank Pulley Locating Wedge or "Wood-ruff key" is probably missing and causing your pulley to slip on the Crankshaft. You must have lost yours... It's a half-moon shaped wedge that fits in the groove of the Crankshaft and Crank pulley so that they are locked together or in sync.
Luckily your bolt seems to be tight enough to somehow hold the pulley within a range that makes it driveable and no CEL.... but its not going to hold. Seriously, STOP driving it now...it's (pulley)gonna break free and the results will be catastrophic... in fact try not to start anymore it until you put a new "wood-druff key" back in. Probably cost you $6
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#10
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Well Wood-Ruff key is a bust. Its in there lol. Timing is correct to. I'm gonna buy new sparks and see what happens. Its driving me INSANE.
#11
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i dunno why i just thought bout this but does it drive fine when its cold and then start doing this when it gets warmed up? if so might be your OCV valve/filter
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ve-filter.html
#14
Understanding that your troubles began after the car had overheated... you could have a damaged ECT( Engine coolant temperature) sensor. A bad coolant sensor would cause multiple symptoms your having and not throw a CEL.
Cheaper than sparkplugs too.
#15
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Cursed VIN
You have had a lot of problems in a relatively short amount of time. . . Personally I believe in things such as cursed VIN numbers. You may have a case of that. Get out while you can.