02 Simulator
Hello everyone,
Currently looking into getting OBX headers, I have seen the thread regarding the install in the performance section (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html) however the company mentioned 02simulator.com is currently sold out.
Any thoughts or recomendations on where to get a quality o2sim component.
Any help is greatly appreciated thanks.
Currently looking into getting OBX headers, I have seen the thread regarding the install in the performance section (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html) however the company mentioned 02simulator.com is currently sold out.
Any thoughts or recomendations on where to get a quality o2sim component.
Any help is greatly appreciated thanks.
Have you considered using a defouler instead of a o2 sim? But, either can be found on Amazon or Ebay. I read through the SC430 forum for the guys using the Megan decats that they [Megan] also sells an o2 sim.
That's correct... and I was wrong previously, the part that Megan sells is a defouler, not a simulator.
http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...d=355&catid=22
http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...d=355&catid=22
My mechanic muffler told me that he installed one to another GS300 and it turned out to noisy and the owner after a week return to install for the catalytic back because the owner can not stand by the sound so loud that the header made. How true is that? I always wanted to install one on my car, but that experience that my muffler shop mechanic told me, I do not dare to buy one.
My mechanic muffler told me that he installed one to another GS300 and it turned out to noisy and the owner after a week return to install for the catalytic back because the owner can not stand by the sound so loud that the header made. How true is that? I always wanted to install one on my car, but that experience that my muffler shop mechanic told me, I do not dare to buy one.
My mechanic muffler told me that he installed one to another GS300 and it turned out to noisy and the owner after a week return to install for the catalytic back because the owner can not stand by the sound so loud that the header made. How true is that? I always wanted to install one on my car, but that experience that my muffler shop mechanic told me, I do not dare to buy one.
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Last edited by Mcon; Jun 4, 2015 at 08:53 PM.
That's correct... and I was wrong previously, the part that Megan sells is a defouler, not a simulator.
http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...d=355&catid=22
http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...d=355&catid=22
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO91FY
Anyway, hearing my car wouldn't really help as I drive a 430, not a 300
The exhaust sound is kinda cool on mine. Don't know which brand, but it sounds stock idle to 3000 and 5000 to redline, but in between it sounds almost like a slight rotary sound.
Stock exhaust besides that.
Stock exhaust besides that.
If you are looking for the defouler, it is the one for the old large spark plugs, like the 1961 Ford Falcon with the 170 inline 6. Don't pay "extra" from some vendor.
You want an 18mm thread non fouler. They run $4 with free shipping on Amazon.
Simulators basically pacify the ECU to think it has a nice stable 450mV output. Pretty simple, lots of schematics out there, you can make one for a couple $ from Radio Shack. Cheaper if you have a friend who is in electronics...
If you want to get a better idea why the ECU is going to throw a code, this will help.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/dr...start-1491606/
It is looking for a stable voltage out, it might vary some. But if it is varying more, like trying to mirror (only delayed) the front O2, then the cat is assumed to be missing or non functional.
Some say, and there isn't much to say no, that the ECU uses the rear O2 output as a trim. If it sees a consistent 370mV all the time, it will skew the front O2 to bring it up to make the rear O2 450mV.
Of course, everyone will say "no it doesn't, it is only for Catalyst check", but at least for GM (which I tune), there is some evidence that it does. It makes sense to ensure the catalyst is running at 100% efficiency, not 94%... And so easy to do in software...
You want an 18mm thread non fouler. They run $4 with free shipping on Amazon.
Simulators basically pacify the ECU to think it has a nice stable 450mV output. Pretty simple, lots of schematics out there, you can make one for a couple $ from Radio Shack. Cheaper if you have a friend who is in electronics...
If you want to get a better idea why the ECU is going to throw a code, this will help.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/dr...start-1491606/
It is looking for a stable voltage out, it might vary some. But if it is varying more, like trying to mirror (only delayed) the front O2, then the cat is assumed to be missing or non functional.
Some say, and there isn't much to say no, that the ECU uses the rear O2 output as a trim. If it sees a consistent 370mV all the time, it will skew the front O2 to bring it up to make the rear O2 450mV.
Of course, everyone will say "no it doesn't, it is only for Catalyst check", but at least for GM (which I tune), there is some evidence that it does. It makes sense to ensure the catalyst is running at 100% efficiency, not 94%... And so easy to do in software...
Last edited by RamAirRckt; Jun 12, 2015 at 08:44 AM.
If you are looking for the defouler, it is the one for the old large spark plugs, like the 1961 Ford Falcon with the 170 inline 6. Don't pay "extra" from some vendor.
You want an 18mm thread non fouler. They run $4 with free shipping on Amazon.
Simulators basically pacify the ECU to think it has a nice stable 450mV output. Pretty simple, lots of schematics out there, you can make one for a couple $ from Radio Shack. Cheaper if you have a friend who is in electronics...
If you want to get a better idea why the ECU is going to throw a code, this will help.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/dr...start-1491606/
It is looking for a stable voltage out, it might vary some. But if it is varying more, like trying to mirror (only delayed) the front O2, then the cat is assumed to be missing or non functional.
Some say, and there isn't much to say no, that the ECU uses the rear O2 output as a trim. If it sees a consistent 370mV all the time, it will skew the front O2 to bring it up to make the rear O2 450mV.
Of course, everyone will say "no it doesn't, it is only for Catalyst check", but at least for GM (which I tune), there is some evidence that it does. It makes sense to ensure the catalyst is running at 100% efficiency, not 94%... And so easy to do in software...
You want an 18mm thread non fouler. They run $4 with free shipping on Amazon.
Simulators basically pacify the ECU to think it has a nice stable 450mV output. Pretty simple, lots of schematics out there, you can make one for a couple $ from Radio Shack. Cheaper if you have a friend who is in electronics...
If you want to get a better idea why the ECU is going to throw a code, this will help.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/dr...start-1491606/
It is looking for a stable voltage out, it might vary some. But if it is varying more, like trying to mirror (only delayed) the front O2, then the cat is assumed to be missing or non functional.
Some say, and there isn't much to say no, that the ECU uses the rear O2 output as a trim. If it sees a consistent 370mV all the time, it will skew the front O2 to bring it up to make the rear O2 450mV.
Of course, everyone will say "no it doesn't, it is only for Catalyst check", but at least for GM (which I tune), there is some evidence that it does. It makes sense to ensure the catalyst is running at 100% efficiency, not 94%... And so easy to do in software...
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