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I was changing the oring on the left vvti pulley and all the pieces fell apart. The picture shows how I put it back together. The cam notch lines up with the pin. I just wanted to make sure that it was put together the correct way. Thanks.
Okay man I'm really sorry for not responding to your email sooner over the pics I have. The only bolts you are supposed to remove are the 18 or 19mm bolt on the tip of the intake cam, the 10mm hex bolt under the previous bolt and the 4 5mm hex bolts on the end of the timing tube
Last edited by Wrath; Jun 1, 2015 at 03:21 AM.
Reason: spelling..
I hate to say this but the torx bolts on the front of the timing tube/gear/vvti gear determine the backlash of the gear and are not supposed to be removed. the factory manual states if any are removed that the timing tube must be replaced. Also, did you put a service bolt in the exhaust cam? if not DO NOT reassemble until you wind the gears on the exhaust cam back together
here is a pic of the two bolts needed to get the timing tube/vvti gear off in the first place. the 18 or 19 silver bolt and 10mm hex. this pic is both my intake cams btw. the pic showing three of the four hex bolts is what you need to remove so you can slip the old O-rings off.
I hate to say this but the torx bolts on the front of the timing tube/gear/vvti gear determine the backlash of the gear and are not supposed to be removed. the factory manual states if any are removed that the timing tube must be replaced. Also, did you put a service bolt in the exhaust cam? if not DO NOT reassemble until you wind the gears on the exhaust cam back together
I know the manual states to not remove the four bolts but many people have done it to replace the old oring instead of buying a new gear. I just wanted to make sure it was put together the right way before i put it back in the car.
well if you can make sure everything is aligned via laser edge then go ahead and rebuild it. did you take the cams out or just the vvti gear? if they are in still, ignore my warnings over the service bolt.
Don't know whether the person who wrote this tread had luck with the size of the o-ring he used worked for him and had no leaks after, but for me it did not. To me the size of the o-ring posted on this post leaked on my install. To me the size is incorrect.
just did this with jeffs video! and his rebuild oring... At first i thought it was the cam seals but gladly i did my homework and its a common issue...
The orings worked for me and no more leaking. You have to stretch them alittle so they fit and when you put everything back together you have to make sure the oring doesn't fall off. I used a little bit of grease to make the oring stick better. I have the 1uz motor.
just did this with jeffs video! and his rebuild oring... At first i thought it was the cam seals but gladly i did my homework and its a commoin issue...
I have the 1uz motor. I installed the 3" inner diameter o-ring with 1/16 thickness, but it developed a slow seeping leak. Can't really tell unless you remove the cam covers and oil deposits are on the cam covers.
This is for mcsdd, you should take one of ur cam covers and check to see if oil deposits formed in there. You won't know unless you do this. What have noticed about the oring size given on this post, the oring thickness and width is not enough. After the 3rd time me installing and taking out the timing belt and using a different size o-ring worked.
just did this with jeffs video! and his rebuild oring... At first i thought it was the cam seals but gladly i did my homework and its a common issue...