Hey everyone, I did this fix for my passenger front doors and they worked for several months and then start slipping and making a buzzing noise. I know it is the coupling on the shaft because I originally heated it up and everything and probably ruined it so I went back in and just epoxyied the filling between the white gear and the brass coupling on my motor.

Well long story short, does anyone know a very secure way of making or making sure the original coupling stays tight on the motor shaft? I am thinking about welding the shaft and the coupling together but that seems a bit extreme.

 

Thanks bro, I pmed you for more info

 

Thank you for all who have posted helpful hints on this DIY. I would have given up in the middle of it all if it were not for some people's advice based on their trial and error. I will recap some of my struggles.


2001 GS430 Passenger side rear door actuator.

The assembly WILL come out WITHOUT removing the outside door handle.
I struggled with the damn thing for 45 minutes before it eventually popped out. You need to twist, turn, push, pull, and wiggle for it to eventually come out. Be patient, dont force it. I dont know what I did, but eventually it came out pretty easy.

Once it was out, it was easy. If you forget how things go, take a digital camera of the steps along the way so you can put it back when you are all done.

Splitting the plastic housing for the actuator motor was not too bad with a strong razor blade. Go slow. Be careful not to get dirt inside the assembly. There is nice clean grease in there.

If you are going to pry the plastic tip off the old motor shaft, put a nice long piece of masking tape on it in case it flies off. You can tape the the other end of it to something close by so you wont have to hunt for it.



We all know how nice it is to have all the actuators working. Feels like a new car!

 

Ty so much for this DIY. I have a 04 ls430. The drivers side door lock had the issue. Just to note for me I did have to slide the window regulator around in order to have access to the actuator. When I pulled it apart I noticed just the motor with no gear underneath the plastic end cap piece. Since all the motors are round on ebay I opted to file the motor to a D shape in order to place the end cap back on.

Then used zip ties to clap the pieces back together. Just a side note to others. If you leave the door handle attached to the lock actuator make sure to test it to see if the door handle and lock move easily. Otherwise when you put everything back together it will NOT work. I found this out the hard way and this took me an extra couple hours to figure out. NOT FUN AT ALL.

Another thing to note is that make sure if you unbolt the window regulator to access the lock actuator that you FIRST put back the window regulator before giving power to the lock actuator. Found out the hard way when all the windows went down and the sunroof opened. Pain in the AS!@#$#! to get back in allignment.

For the ls series like the GS. Keep the window up. You don't need to remove the speaker. Take your time and make sure to use glue or zip ties.

Good Luck!

Check out the video online for sure. Just keep in mind that it varies for which model you have. He does a lot of unneccessary things as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VqGy...eature=related

For me I would suggest getting this motor.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...d=248954818506

It has PTC which apparently helps the motor last longer. And it worked for me after filing the round end down to fit the D shaped cap.

Good luck with your DIY. This forum has saved me mucho dinero!!!!

 

Thanks for the info and links man, they should really come in handy when I tackle this project

 

ive done it on multiple GS , including mine. im trying to figure out tho 1 of my rear doors just shut and wont open lol it happen like a week ago im sure ill figure it out once i get the car back from tour. this really works tho its not a scam or any of that. Dont spend 100 of dollars for a new bullcrap lock 6 bucks on ebay.

 

^ thanks for some reassurance lol

I am getting ready to do this and am probably gonna order 4 motors, 3 are out and 1 is going soon, so I know this is not gonna be a fun process

does anyone know the best motor to use? the reason I ask is because I thought I read that they need to be altered to fit, thanks for any help

 

You guys don't have to struggle with it at all. There is nothing brave about pulling on the door cable. You do that every single time you pull the door handle from the inside. Trust me it's the easiest way to get it out. 2 minutes vs 45 minutes. I'll take the former

 

anybody? im ready to order some motorss

 

Hey everyone. I'm dealing with 2 malfunctioning actuators right now and came across the motor like in this pic at RockAuto it is $91.79 right now. I just thought I'd share in case anyone could use this. It won't fix my issues, the cable ends snapped and epoxy didn't solve either, so I'm off to order the whole shebang x2.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

Hey guys I just did my driver front and rear door today. Now if i use the key on the driver door it wont lock and unlock all doors, or roll the all the windows down. The remote will also not do anything, it blinks but wont lock unlock or open the trunk. When the car goes into gear all the doors lock(yeah the actuators are all fixed!). They also work from the driver door switch panel with no issue. Any ideas on whats going on? Is there a fuse I may have blew? Or maybe something needs to be reset? Thanks for any help fellas.

 

Bought the motor and took it to a mechanic to replace (I'm too car-tarded to do it mysef) and he opened it up and said replacing the motor wouldn't be enough. Ah well.

 

? why wouldnt it be? less the cable it broken it DEF should be

 

He said the motor was still spinning but the gear inside the plastic housing was broken. I got the whole thing replaced for a little bit more and he gave me the broken part so I don't think I was being ripped off, but who knows.

 

A BIG thank you to TRD911 and everyone who contributed to this thread. Just did my right rear door today. Took me about an hour start to finish.

Took it out of the door with the window up. Opened it up with a small electronics standard screw driver (used as a chisel) and a hammer while being held in place in a vise. Once the motor was out I took the toothed pinion off the motor by squeezing the motor in a vise and using a panel tool (looks like a forked standard screw driver) and leverage to easily lift it off. I hammered it onto the new motor by holding the motor in hand and tapping it on with the hammer. Put it all back together and and installed it. All done and working! Thanks again everyone.