Replacing rear wheel studs
03-23-07, 01:34 PM
#1
Replacing rear wheel studs
mods, i know this post belongs in the wheel section but this section gets more traffic. i need more info on this topic. feel free to move this when you think its ready.
has anyone replaced their REAR wheel studs? i know you have to take off the caliper and rotors. my question is, do you have to remove the brake pads so when pounding out the old studs, there is room for the stud to come out.
im hoping that i dont have to remove the brake pads. i don't like working on a drum system. too many springs!
anyone please chime in if you've done this before and any pointers would be appreciated.
here is a picture of what im talking about.
thanks
has anyone replaced their REAR wheel studs? i know you have to take off the caliper and rotors. my question is, do you have to remove the brake pads so when pounding out the old studs, there is room for the stud to come out.
im hoping that i dont have to remove the brake pads. i don't like working on a drum system. too many springs!
anyone please chime in if you've done this before and any pointers would be appreciated.
here is a picture of what im talking about.
thanks
03-23-07, 01:45 PM
#4
Lead Lap
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pa
Posts: 686
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
03-24-07, 12:11 PM
#10
I put longer studs in my rear hub. Pretty much what Ed said. I sacrificed an old lug nut on the end of the stud and just hit it with a 5 lb mallet to push the stud out. Once you get good at it, it only takes 2 or 3 whacks.
To get the longer studs in, just remove the lower "reverse" adjustment piece on the bottom between the shoes. I also removed a couple of the springs, but I never removed the shoes. This gave me more room to work in without completely taking out the shoes.
Just insert the new stud through the hole in the hub. You need to rotate the hub to an area where the brake assembly is not in the way. You also should have both sides of the rear end up in the air so that you can rotate the hub easily.
This gave me just enough room to get the longer studs in.
To install them just use an open head lug bolt and a deep socket and tighten it down. I used an impact wrench and then a breaker bar for good measure.
To get the longer studs in, just remove the lower "reverse" adjustment piece on the bottom between the shoes. I also removed a couple of the springs, but I never removed the shoes. This gave me more room to work in without completely taking out the shoes.
Just insert the new stud through the hole in the hub. You need to rotate the hub to an area where the brake assembly is not in the way. You also should have both sides of the rear end up in the air so that you can rotate the hub easily.
This gave me just enough room to get the longer studs in.
To install them just use an open head lug bolt and a deep socket and tighten it down. I used an impact wrench and then a breaker bar for good measure.
Last edited by RMMGS4; 03-24-07 at 02:09 PM.
03-24-07, 05:57 PM
#12
Pole Position
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: n.c.
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put longer studs in my rear hub. Pretty much what Ed said. I sacrificed an old lug nut on the end of the stud and just hit it with a 5 lb mallet to push the stud out. Once you get good at it, it only takes 2 or 3 whacks.
To get the longer studs in, just remove the lower "reverse" adjustment piece on the bottom between the shoes. I also removed a couple of the springs, but I never removed the shoes. This gave me more room to work in without completely taking out the shoes.
Just insert the new stud through the hole in the hub. You need to rotate the hub to an area where the brake assembly is not in the way. You also should have both sides of the rear end up in the air so that you can rotate the hub easily.
This gave me just enough room to get the longer studs in.
To install them just use an open head lug bolt and a deep socket and tighten it down. I used an impact wrench and then a breaker bar for good measure.
To get the longer studs in, just remove the lower "reverse" adjustment piece on the bottom between the shoes. I also removed a couple of the springs, but I never removed the shoes. This gave me more room to work in without completely taking out the shoes.
Just insert the new stud through the hole in the hub. You need to rotate the hub to an area where the brake assembly is not in the way. You also should have both sides of the rear end up in the air so that you can rotate the hub easily.
This gave me just enough room to get the longer studs in.
To install them just use an open head lug bolt and a deep socket and tighten it down. I used an impact wrench and then a breaker bar for good measure.
03-24-07, 06:20 PM
#13
i finished the task of changing out the studs. the easy part is taking them out. it's real hard to put them back on. it would be easier if you had air tools.
no need to take out the drum pads or even mess the the drum system.
i slipped in the longer studs on the bottom and turned the hub until the stud came out.
thanks everyone for your help. couldn't have done it without you guys.
ed and glenn, you guys are the best.
no need to take out the drum pads or even mess the the drum system.
i slipped in the longer studs on the bottom and turned the hub until the stud came out.
thanks everyone for your help. couldn't have done it without you guys.
ed and glenn, you guys are the best.
