Had my shortblock changed a little over a month ago. Anyways, I'm not sure if I'm being ****, or I just started noticing.

Well when the car is first started (car is still warming up), it shifts around 4800rpm at WOT. Once it warms up it shifts around 5800rpm at WOT.

I thought before it shifted well into 6200rpm. Can anyone just do a few quick checks for me?

Also at neutral and in park, the engine'll rev (as if hitting redline) if I rev it above 5500rpm.

I replaced the motor with a 1998 motor.

 

Dude why in the hell did you have to replace the motor on a 2000 GS400???

If I recall correctly mine shifted a bit over 6000 RPM when it was floored - like 6200rpm or so to be exact if I remember.

I never floored it when the motor was still cold but I don't doubt it might shifter earlier... it already won't let you manually shift into 2nd gear... 3rd only.

Though mine, when cold, when rev quite a bit higher in first gear for the first 1-2 shift of the day. I mean like ~3k rpm no matter how light I was on the throttle. After that it was pretty normal.

There is a chance that your throttle control is not adjusted properly or the throttle position sensor or something like that... have you tried to manually actuate it.

You said when you floor it in park it stops at 5500 rpm? Weird...

 

Hole in shortblocked. The 98 motor was the only thing I could find with the time given. I was told it was exactly the same, but now I'm not quite sure, since there's a few minor side effects.

In park, it doesn't stop at 5500. It could go on if I force it, but it feels like it's hitting redline. The whole motor rumbles and shakes. I don't care much about that issue.

I can redline it fine while driving if I put it in manual mode.

 

^^ Go to work, wot, tell Mike what you get

 

I have never had mine at WOT until I have been driving at least 10 minutes and I have never had a reason to want to rev the engine at all while it is in park (normally the engine is cold when I am in park anyway). At WOT after the oil is at operating temps my transmission shifts pretty close to 6200 rpm.

 

Redlining the engine at any time is not a good thing, but redlining with no load is even worse.

Some front wheel drive vehicles won't allow throttle rpm much beyond 4000 rpm if the wheels are not moving..(ie transmission in a forward gear).

Be advised that the GS4 engine will go all the way to redline in Park or Reverse with no problem. IF the engine is shaking, it is because you have exceeded the fuel cutout limit, which prevents the engine from going even faster.

It serves no purpose to intentionally rev the engine to that point repeatedly. You can't tell much doing that. You are just accelerating wear on the vital engine parts. It is a great engine. Very smooth and torque-y, but it does have its' limits.

WOT on a cold engine is a recipe for disaster. It needs to warm up first to allow normal expansion of the cold parts and ensure long life. My car is paid for, and I don't have cash for a new engine, so I let it warm up and treat it with respect.

I don't mean to flame, but I've never heard of anyone changing an engine on a 2000 GS4. Modifying one, YES, but I now know that it IS possible to damage this engine by prolonged no load revving. ...your 98 GS engine will probably suffer the same fate if this engine is repeatedly redlined. If the engine is not running properly, you'll know it long before you get to redline.

When I first drove a GS400, I thought it was the fastest vehicle around...and it WAS back then. After a bit of time with mine, it seems slower and slower, but it is all in my mind. So many cars are faster now, including V6 and some 4 cylinder turbo-charged or intercooled specialty engines. You gotta modify if you want to keep up with the newest cars. Back in 1986/87 the 5.0 Mustang was hot. I had one of those too, but I moved up. Comfort was more important, and I still have great speed. It is all in your perspective.

But all in all, I like what I have, and would probably get another "hot rod" to do some crazy stuff when I got the urge. But the GS is for everyday, and I love it for what it is. I'm gonna take good care of it.

 

Thanks for the tip? If you had read the thread properly, I'm not asking advice whether I should rev it cold or not. It's just ever since the engine replacement, it's been acting out of the norm.

And no one stupidly replaces a perfectly fine 2000 engine with a 98 engine

 

sixty two hundred.

 

The engine is prob just hitting fuel cut. Whatever, as long as it runs

 

Mikevanie,
Somehow I knew you would take it wrong. I did not say that you were stupid for changing a 2000 engine for a 1998. What I DID say was that it is really unusual for anyone to HAVE to change a 1UZFE engine after only 6 years. You had a hole in the shortblock. How did that happen?

Was it a manufacturer's defect (which I doubt), or is it possible that MAYBE you did something to cause it to go out? Maybe the owner before you contributed (if you didn't buy it new).

Correct me if I am wrong, but did YOU say that you revved your engine while it was cold? I would be correct in saying that the majority of GS owners do not beat their engines when they are cold. I limit my engine speed to 3500-4000 rpm until it warms up. It idles at about 2250 cold and then starts slowing down.

If you want to run your engine hard when it is cold, suit yourself. It doesn't hurt me or my car. I take my car to nearly redline when I want to move quickly. I bought it for its' ability to accelerate quickly. But I don't exceed the redline to get the last bit of performance out of it. The engine has a horsepower/torque curve. That means that there is a point where excessive rpms cause a LOSS of torque and horsepower. RPM isn't everything. The maximum torque and horsepower is developed far below the redline. Shifting up quicker is the key.

I am through responding to you about what you do to your car. I see it was a mistake even saying anything.. I take it all back. You were right and I was wrong. Forgive me for making a suggestion. Drive your car the way you want...I do. By the way, my full-throttle acceleration engine speed is about 6250 as well when I let the transmission shift on its' own. Best quarter mile speed is obtained by letting the tranny shift itself. I tried it both ways, and decided never to take my car to redline or hit the fuel cutoff on purpose again. Perhaps Toyota knew what the were doing when they set the shift point at 6250 rpm. After that, all you are doing is damaging your engine.

Higher rpms doesn't necessarily equate to faster vehicle speed. What matters is how FAST it gets to its' powercurve. If it needs a throttle body cleaniing or new plugs or an adjustment, that will have to be addressed and corrected. Then your engine will accelerate quicker.

I give up. If you enjoy changing engines go right ahead. I'm done.

 

I did not "beat" on my old engine by WOT while it was still cold. It caused a hole in the shortblock during the rain while I drove through a puddle of water and I guess it hydrolocked.

After getting the engine replaced I noticed it was revving kind of oddly. I was revving it in neutral, cold, and warm just to see where it would redline at, and hoping for a comparision with other "perfectly fine" cars.

And about "going quick", I doubt the GS400 can go anywhere fast, others may disagree.

 

After reading this post I realize that our 400's typically shift at 6200 RPM's under WOT. But, mine does not! No matter if I put the ECT to power mode or not my shifts come up at 6000 RPM's on the dot. I figured this was the normal shift point because I had no basis for comparision, till now. Mike, if you find anything on why your car is shifting below average can you please update me. Thanks.

BTW I also have a 2000 Platinum Edition with about 120k on the clock.