Just got my upper strut brace and L-tuned ECU from Steve yesterday.
The brace looks beefy!
A few questions about it from you guys that have it installed.
Do I just remove the bolts at either end of the engine bay and place the brace over the black plate and then put the bolts back in place?
No other things were sandwiched in between. Just checking so I do it right the first time?
What is the torque on those bolts?

About the ECU....
I see much debate about how to install it.
I have the detailed instructions that are posted on this site and they seem pretty straight forward.
I have also seen posts saying that you only have to remove the bottom panel above the brake pedal and then look under and reach up to get to the stock ECU. Is this true?
I would like to take out as few fasteners as possible.
Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks
MIKE

 

Spartan,

you are correct just remove the bolts and place the STB over the existing plate. Some people have gotten stainless washers to put on in between the bolts and the STB, just so they don't mar/scratch the finish on the STB. That's your choice. Tourque 45-50 ft/lbs.

Can't help on the ECU, but there were some instructions posted with pictures on the board here a while ago.

 

If you read the instruction comes with the STB, it said you need to remove the 3-hole black plate and install the STB to the strut tower. You have better contact surface this way.
As for the ECU, I only remove 2 screws and bent the bottom panel so my hand can get in there to do the job. It took me about 15 minutes to replace it. I did not remove the whole bottom panel.

 

Thanks for the info guys...
I just tried to place the tower brace over the studs on either end and the brace was too wide.
It's off by like 10-15mm....
Is this normal?
Did Steve send me the wrong brace?
The invoice says it's for the GS400....
I also tried removing one of the bolts and it was tough as hell.....didnt seem like it was 40-50 lbs torque...
I just want to do this correctly and not screw the car up.
Thanks
MIKE

 

I had the same problem at first. One question: did you take both sets of nuts off the studs ( rt and lt) before you tried the STB on? Because the studs are angled the STB on one side has to go all the way down before the other side can fit.
I also took the existing black plate off before I installed it.
Good luck.

 

Spartan - Use a little WD-40 to loosen the nut . You won't need to use all your muscles then.

 

Uh...more importantly, make sure that the car is on a FLAT LEVEL SURFACE. If you car is at an angle, it will cause the STB to not fit...make sure you don't torque it down too much...you'll snap the bolt with too much pressure (I did it on my former vehicle) and trust me, it's no fun to replace the upper strut plate...

And the black plates should be removed and you should NOT use washers...it will just put extra, unnecessary pressure on the bolts...unless you drive like a WUSS! J/K!

 

Dont flip out if it apperares not to fit at first . Just at the moment you are convinced it somehow wont fit, it will fall perfectly in place. Its made by Toyota (an OEM quality part) so its a perfect fit...Hope this helps you , Tiny

 

Well...thanks to everyone's replies to my posts I have successfully installed both the TRD upper strut brace and the L-tuned steering ECU.
I had some trouble with the strut brace though.
The struds that it fits over were not completely aligned so I had to jack the car up on one side to take the weight off the strut tower so that they had some slack in them. The brace fit on perfectly after that.

The L-tuned ECU went on with some difficulty. It took like 35 minutes. I only removed the first panel that is listed on the posted directions. I didn't want to remove too many panels (actually my dad did the work...mechanically inclined mechanic).

The response from the ECU is as expected and described by other board members...
Stiff and very responsive. I am happy with it.
Combined with the strut brace the car's frotn end handles amazingly better. I can even notice a bigger difference even with my Tein HA's.

Overall these mods were well worth it. I am very happy with the handling improvements in the car.
Thanks for all that helped.
What an addiction...more mods to come.

MIKE

2000 Platinum GS400 - SRT HFI+ECU II, TC, Borla Ovals, Tein HAs, TRD Upper Strut Brace, L-Tuned Steering ECU.

 

It is a good idea to use properly sized washers. They will even up the pressure distribution between the strut brace and the hex nuts. As for the bolts, they won't even notice the washers are there

 

Congrats Spartan! Yes, it's addictive! Now you're ready for the TRD sway bars - they RULE!

Of the HFI and TC, if you could only do one, which would you do?

 

[quote]It is a good idea to use properly sized washers. They will even up the pressure distribution between the strut brace and the hex nuts. As for the bolts, they won't even notice the washers are there[\quote]

Ok, I don't know what I was thinking but I though that Johnny was talking about putting the washers underneath the STB and then bolting it down...that would be unncessary...putting the washer on top of the STB then bolting it down would be good...duh! Thanks for the correction Miguel...

 

to answer your question about the SRT HFI/ECU or TC I would definatly put the TC for the added preformance it gives you but if you dont race your car alot and you want the sound and a little bit of preformance then go with a SRT HFI/ECU and borla exaust they will ad to your preformance and they sound real good

 

Good point! Another tip; jack up car so that full weight is not sitting on front wheels/suspension then tighten bar. After bar is snug then bring car down. Is this the correct way? I can't say for sure but this is how I've been taught and it does make a noticable difference.

 

I would probably get the TC first bit...
I love the launches is allows me to get.
The next thing I want is to upgrade my wheels to some HREs...
Gotta get rid of the 16's...
Thanks
MIKE