EDTUN3R

Thank You That was very Helpful

One_jZ_SC3

iTrader: (2)

I got one for u guys....my dam key will not come out of the ignition!!!

It seems to be locked and the only way to get it to turn to release is if I disconnect the battery terminal, if I put the key in its stuck again...This started yesterday and I never had any issues like this before. The car starts up fine and drive, no issues there.

I searched the forum and found similar threads about the issue but it can be multiple things from what I read: the ignition cylinder? Lock cylinder? I dont want to spend unnecessary money..I did everything and more from the other threads: Making sure the car is engaged in park, turning the steering wheel every way possible, Wd4, and nothing.....Can you Gurus help on this one????

//LRD

Help Sean..

EDTUN3R

Another Question! Can I swap in a GTE Head on a N/A Block? And which ARP head bolts would i use for it gte or n/a?

SHOLEXMAN

^^^ LOL thanks. I haven't had to mess with SC 400 lock cylinders ,but I have messed with other designs before. Usually there in a 2 piece setup one where you insert the grooved part of the key. The the other half is the plastic ignition which fires the car up. To gain access to that you need to removed the plastic covers under the steering wheel. Its mounted to a bracket I think you can take it out in 2 pieces. It sounds like lock piece is staying engage cause there is power being applied to it. Here is a picture for what you will be looking at. If I can look at one in time I can tell you the rest. Is the key that you have aftermarket by chance cause those sometimes don't work if one was freshly cut.

http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/153...nder0051it.jpg

One_jZ_SC3

iTrader: (2)

So what do I need to do exactly?? Replace that piece where the key goes into...The key is also the origional, no copy

Wicked SC

iTrader: (3)

Yes you can, but why would you want to? The GE head flows better from what I've heard...

DINH300

Don't waste your time with this N/a to tt head. The main differences is there are more parts for TT then there are for N/a. just stick with what you have and go boost. ARP studs are all the same.

//LRD

Yeah I have to agree with these guys. Either go na-t or go all the way GTE

//LRD

Sean love the visual add.. Nice touch

Guys I think the members of CLFL are pretty damn awesome .It's cool as hell how we as a combined member base can truly pull together and help one another out..I'm Proud to be a member of a community like this..

SHOLEXMAN

I haven't removed one of these before ,but I have a clue. Once you remove the covers where the lock is see if you can pull the back section out of where the key goes into. If it is one whole piece that cannot be separated your probably going to have to go to the dealer to get a new lock cylinder. If I can get to one that I can take that section apart I'll let ya know.

98$c300

Anyone know how to trick the computer to think that the O2 senor is connect.My car uses 3.I want to use the third whole for my wide band senor.

SHOLEXMAN

^^^ You can put a resistor in the o2 sensor circuit not sure which wire(s). I don't know the resistant value your going to have to search around for that. I have also heard of o2 simulators ,but I am not sure what is invovled with that.

98$c300

I was thinking to leave it plugged in.I just want to use the whole on the pipe.without having to make another whole.I'm not on boost.I know the wide band goes on the downpipe.

EDTUN3R

I simply wanted the gte head just for the fact that the intake manifold does not cross over the top of the motor and there was eaier to find parts for the gte!