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Suspension Severely Rusted...Replace?

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Old Dec 11, 2025 | 07:41 AM
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Default Suspension Severely Rusted...Replace?

Hi folks,

bought the 2013 ES 300H in Michigan earlier this year. Overall in very good shape for 200k milles on odometer. Has basically all the options that were available, which is pretty much why I bought it. I knew the suspension would need attention, being a rust belt car. I'm getting clunking going over bumps, but the car handles fine. However, I had no idea how bad it really was. I finally had the car inspected yesterday and I am attaching the pictures from the independent garage's report. Basically, they are saying I need to replace all struts, stabilizer bars, and front control arms, for a total of about $4700. Of course, that would make zero sense for a car that is worth about $9k. I started to search the net for aftermarket parts and found a place called Detroit Axle on eBay that makes aftermarket suspension parts, and it looks like I can purchase everything for under a thousand dollars. I would just need to find a place to install it. I'll ask the shop where I had the inspection done, but I'm not sure they will install aftermarket parts. My question is, would you go the same route (basically replacing most of the suspension with aftermarket parts), or would you try to identify which parts really need to go and which can stay, to save a bit of money? I really want to keep this car for a long time and the hybrid battery, motor, transmission all still seem to be in great shape (previous owner did regular maintenance at Lexus), so I have no concerns about this car going another 100-200k miles.























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Old Dec 11, 2025 | 08:57 AM
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I would start by replacing your sway bar end links. They are most likely the noise culprit. Shocks/Struts don't appear to be leaking. Control arm bushings could also cause noise, but start with the cheap fix first. Suspension work is labor intensive.
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Old Dec 11, 2025 | 08:57 AM
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3 thoughts. I agree with the above post that you should just replace the sway bar links for now. They are inexpensive and easy to replace.

Or Save your money on a 200k vehicle and just drive it the way it is until it gets really bad and fix what breaks. Or get another opinion from a different independent shop.

Most shops will not install owner provided parts as they cannot provide a warranty for the work in that situation. It also deprives them of much of their profit margin. However some unknown backyard mechanic off Craigslist or Marketplace may install your parts. However you first need to be sure what you need. Detroit Axle parts will not last as long as Lexus parts, but are much cheaper and a possibly good choice on this old a vehicle.

At that many miles your struts and control arms probably are worn out. The sway bar links probably have to be cut off due to rust when replacing the struts. Your strut mounts may be shot, so quick struts may be a good alternative on this aging rusting hulk.
It is a gamble to think it may last another 100 - 200 thousand miles. You will probably need a new hybrid battery or other expensive components in that time. Or major engine work.

Last edited by Clutchless; Dec 11, 2025 at 08:59 AM.
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Old Dec 11, 2025 | 11:23 AM
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Thanks a LOT for the suggestions! Seems logical to try and replace the links first since they are cheap and easy to replace. Heck, maybe I can even do it myself!
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Old Dec 11, 2025 | 11:35 AM
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First thing that needs to be replaced are the struts they are at risk of breaking in half. No joke, I've seen this happen the piece that bolts to the knuckle sheers off. If you don't want to replace struts then at least treat the entire car with Fluid Film it will drastically slow down the rust. Otherwise that will continue to rot out even in your climate.
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Old Dec 16, 2025 | 06:28 AM
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I replaced the front sway bar links yesterday. Had to cut off the nuts since they were all seized. I sprayed all visible rust with Fluid Film (thanks for the suggestion LeX2K). Also sprayed rubber restorer onto all rubber parts. I'll do the rear sway bar links next. I'll also do the brakes since I'm getting a clunking noise from the FL brake also. Brakes are spongy so something is up.



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Old Dec 16, 2025 | 01:50 PM
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Nice job. Are you still getting the clunking over bumps?
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Old Dec 24, 2025 | 10:46 AM
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Yes, from rear left which is the only one I have not done.
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Old Dec 25, 2025 | 11:43 AM
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Not sure that Detroit Axle parts are inferior. I did a plant startup with Toyota building axle assemblies for Tundra and Tacoma and one of our big suppliers was Detroit axle. I have found their products to be reliable and affordable.
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Old Dec 25, 2025 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by driveithard
Not sure that Detroit Axle parts are inferior. I did a plant startup with Toyota building axle assemblies for Tundra and Tacoma and one of our big suppliers was Detroit axle. I have found their products to be reliable and affordable.
Do you have some proof of this claim? It would be very interesting to know who makes parts for Toyota IMO
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Old Dec 25, 2025 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Striker223
Do you have some proof of this claim? It would be very interesting to know who makes parts for Toyota IMO
I've seen this claim several times that Detroit Axle supplies remans to Toyota. No proof don't know either way.
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 05:42 AM
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I replaced all the sway bar links and I'm glad I did because I think they were all failed or failing. The clunking disappeared...at least momentarily. Then the noises came back. These noises were difficult to locate, but I thought it came from rear left. Sounded like it was suspension related since it happens mostly when the car went over uneven roads, i.e. there was torsion on the body. I was already dreading having to start all over again, looking to for harder to access and more expensive suspension parts to replace. But then I remembered something...I had watched some videos for replacing the sunroof seal because it was leaking quite a bit going through the car wash. In one of the videos it mentioned that the sunroof would make a mechanical clunking noise when the seal fails, and then the lightbulb went off! I got in the car, started driving, and listened to the familiar noises, then cracked open the sunroof, and to my amazement all the noises were instantly gone! Crap, I had been chasing the wrong geese all along. I feel like such a dummy but I am glad because the sunroof seal is an easy job, compared to say a strut or control arm. I'll be doing that today. Anyone who has some clunking going on should first try to open the sunroof to see if the noises are still present then. This is surely the easier fix and and it does not hurt to have a sealed roof as a side benefit either.
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