Used Tire Buying Guide
02-12-17, 06:03 PM
#1
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Used Tire Buying Guide
As our cars are getting older, throwing $500-800 for a new set of tires not be as cost effective. Used tires may sometimes represent a better deal, but buyer beware, you really have to know what to look for.
I made a short video outlining some things to look for when buying used tires, check it out here:
Enjoy!
I made a short video outlining some things to look for when buying used tires, check it out here:
Enjoy!
02-12-17, 06:35 PM
#2
Lexus Fanatic
Tires are the only thing connecting you and your family to the road. I think skimping on tires is foolhardy. The age of the car is meaningless, tires are a safety purchase.
02-12-17, 07:56 PM
#3
Lexus Champion
"You know what else is dangerous? ..." You glossed over the age of the tire. I believe that you did not emphasize enough that the rubber in a tire does dry out (deteriorate) over time, and that tires that are approximately 5 years old or older (since manufacture) should NOT be used. This is not only important when buying used tires but when buying discounted (but little-used / unused) tires, as they may have been sitting in storage for a while.
02-12-17, 08:54 PM
#4
"You know what else is dangerous? ..." You glossed over the age of the tire. I believe that you did not emphasize enough that the rubber in a tire does dry out (deteriorate) over time, and that tires that are approximately 5 years old or older (since manufacture) should NOT be used. This is not only important when buying used tires but when buying discounted (but little-used / unused) tires, as they may have been sitting in storage for a while.
I haven't bought used tires beyond my teenage years, but I have replaced tires in good to very good condition. If they were resold it would be a nice find for someone on a budget
Nice informative video speedkar9
02-12-17, 09:39 PM
#5
Lexus Champion
I have some X-Ice Michelin's very old still good but they've been out of the sun much of the time. Made in Japan they simply refuse to die. Nice video loved that you cut the tire open, cringed you not using gloves that wheel can really hurt you.
02-12-17, 09:59 PM
#6
Lexus Champion
Only tires I may consider is new take-off as a result of wheel upgrade for a brand new vehicle. Other used tires? No thanks.
When I buy new tires even I pass El Cheapo ones.
I was in Granada in Carribean(one of poor island down there) there I was told most tires being sold there was used ones
imported from Europe. I know Europeans are strict on worn tires. You can't drive with tires thread is less than minimum depth.
When I buy new tires even I pass El Cheapo ones.
I was in Granada in Carribean(one of poor island down there) there I was told most tires being sold there was used ones
imported from Europe. I know Europeans are strict on worn tires. You can't drive with tires thread is less than minimum depth.
02-12-17, 11:17 PM
#7
Pole Position
X2.
The tires involved in Paul Walker's crash on the Porsche he was a passenger in was NINE years old!!!! Porsche recommended replacing tires at 4 years.
http://articles.latimes.com/2014/mar...crash-20140326
The tires involved in Paul Walker's crash on the Porsche he was a passenger in was NINE years old!!!! Porsche recommended replacing tires at 4 years.
http://articles.latimes.com/2014/mar...crash-20140326
"You know what else is dangerous? ..." You glossed over the age of the tire. I believe that you did not emphasize enough that the rubber in a tire does dry out (deteriorate) over time, and that tires that are approximately 5 years old or older (since manufacture) should NOT be used. This is not only important when buying used tires but when buying discounted (but little-used / unused) tires, as they may have been sitting in storage for a while.
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02-13-17, 07:57 AM
#8
Lexus Test Driver
Great video thank you for this - I bought a set of 4 used tires for my 2010 LS for $130 (I know I know) and ended up getting a set of 4 new tires for $9xx a month later. There are some decent deals to be had with fresh take-offs but those are more often found on SUV's and trucks (where owners swap them out for bigger rims) than Lexus sedans...here in Dallas you can find a lot of new Wrangler tires with/without factory rims for really cheap.
This video helps a lot for those looking at used tires to understand not all tires are created equal, and not all used tires are a great deal!
This video helps a lot for those looking at used tires to understand not all tires are created equal, and not all used tires are a great deal!
02-13-17, 09:00 AM
#9
Pole Position
I'd recommend not ever doing this, except for very specific reasons/circumstances.
First, you're not saving as much money as you think. Second, SW15LS is absolutely right. Your entire car is dependent on 4 little patches that touch the road. You shouldn't be willing to sacrifice safety for a few hundred dollars. Not just for you, for others on the road.
Used tires have no history. They can be plugged (rusted steel belts), patched, or otherwise dangerous. Hidden defects in old or damaged tires can rear their ugly heads at high speed on the highway. You do not want this.
That set of tires that "looks" good is probably only good for another few months anyway. Why bother?
First, you're not saving as much money as you think. Second, SW15LS is absolutely right. Your entire car is dependent on 4 little patches that touch the road. You shouldn't be willing to sacrifice safety for a few hundred dollars. Not just for you, for others on the road.
Used tires have no history. They can be plugged (rusted steel belts), patched, or otherwise dangerous. Hidden defects in old or damaged tires can rear their ugly heads at high speed on the highway. You do not want this.
That set of tires that "looks" good is probably only good for another few months anyway. Why bother?
Last edited by CleanSC; 02-13-17 at 06:53 PM.
02-13-17, 03:20 PM
#10
Lexus Fanatic
Nice video.....thanks for posting. 
I'd like to add a couple of things, though.
First, it's almost impossible to avoid at least some (minor) feathering, even if you have perfect alignment and no suspension problems. That's because of the way that modern radial tires are designed...the tread blocks are open on the sides, running part-way up into the sidewalls. That's done so that the tread can still displace water even as the outside of the tire leans over in corners. But, as the tire rotates, an twisting force from front to rear is put on those tread-blocks from the weight of the car and tire pressing down on them, and that forces the edges of the tread-blocks to wear slightly more in one direction and cause the feathering. Usually it's not severe....but, even with normal conditions, you can feel it with your hands or fingertips. But, that's one of the key reasons why most tires make more road noise as they age. Sometimes you can reverse that feathering effect by cross-rotating tires from the left to the right side of the car and changing the rolling direction...but some tire shops won't do that with radials and/or belted tires because they claim it can loosen the belts. I don't know....I'm not enough of a tire engineer to verify if that part is is true or not. But I've done it a few times, and never had any further problems.
Second, if the tread is worn more on the sides than in the middle, then, yes, that is usually a sign of underinflation (and keep in mind, on a hot or cold day, that tire pressure will vary roughly 1 PSI for every ten degrees Farenheit in air temperature). Tires will, of course, heat up even more in direct sunlight, due to the heat-absorbing characteristics of the black color....more heat means higher pressure. And even normally-inflated tires can wear more on the edges than in the middle if you have an aggressive driver that does a lot of hard cornering....that would not necessarily be a sign of underinflation.
Third, it's nice to have a tire-depth gauge, but, if you don't (or if you can't easily see the wear-bars), a general rule of thumb is to use an American Lincoln copper penny and stick it into what looks like the most worn area of the tread. If you can still see the top of Lincoln's head......then it time to go tire-shopping.
Last, don't be surprised if, all else equal, the exact same set of tires, on the same car, rides noticeably smoother in the summertime than in the winter, even at the same or higher PSI. That's because heat does two things.....it softens up the rubber in the tire, making it more compliant over bumps, and also thins out the hydraulic fluid in the shocks, making the shock-damping softer.
I'd like to add a couple of things, though.
First, it's almost impossible to avoid at least some (minor) feathering, even if you have perfect alignment and no suspension problems. That's because of the way that modern radial tires are designed...the tread blocks are open on the sides, running part-way up into the sidewalls. That's done so that the tread can still displace water even as the outside of the tire leans over in corners. But, as the tire rotates, an twisting force from front to rear is put on those tread-blocks from the weight of the car and tire pressing down on them, and that forces the edges of the tread-blocks to wear slightly more in one direction and cause the feathering. Usually it's not severe....but, even with normal conditions, you can feel it with your hands or fingertips. But, that's one of the key reasons why most tires make more road noise as they age. Sometimes you can reverse that feathering effect by cross-rotating tires from the left to the right side of the car and changing the rolling direction...but some tire shops won't do that with radials and/or belted tires because they claim it can loosen the belts. I don't know....I'm not enough of a tire engineer to verify if that part is is true or not. But I've done it a few times, and never had any further problems.
Second, if the tread is worn more on the sides than in the middle, then, yes, that is usually a sign of underinflation (and keep in mind, on a hot or cold day, that tire pressure will vary roughly 1 PSI for every ten degrees Farenheit in air temperature). Tires will, of course, heat up even more in direct sunlight, due to the heat-absorbing characteristics of the black color....more heat means higher pressure. And even normally-inflated tires can wear more on the edges than in the middle if you have an aggressive driver that does a lot of hard cornering....that would not necessarily be a sign of underinflation.
Third, it's nice to have a tire-depth gauge, but, if you don't (or if you can't easily see the wear-bars), a general rule of thumb is to use an American Lincoln copper penny and stick it into what looks like the most worn area of the tread. If you can still see the top of Lincoln's head......then it time to go tire-shopping.
Last, don't be surprised if, all else equal, the exact same set of tires, on the same car, rides noticeably smoother in the summertime than in the winter, even at the same or higher PSI. That's because heat does two things.....it softens up the rubber in the tire, making it more compliant over bumps, and also thins out the hydraulic fluid in the shocks, making the shock-damping softer.
Last edited by mmarshall; 02-13-17 at 03:30 PM.
02-13-17, 03:34 PM
#11
Lexus Champion
X2.
The tires involved in Paul Walker's crash on the Porsche he was a passenger in was NINE years old!!!! Porsche recommended replacing tires at 4 years.
http://articles.latimes.com/2014/mar...crash-20140326
The tires involved in Paul Walker's crash on the Porsche he was a passenger in was NINE years old!!!! Porsche recommended replacing tires at 4 years.
http://articles.latimes.com/2014/mar...crash-20140326
02-13-17, 03:36 PM
#12
Lexus Champion
Nice video.....thanks for posting.
I'd like to add a couple of things, though.
First, it's almost impossible to avoid at least some (minor) feathering, even if you have perfect alignment and no suspension problems. That's because of the way that modern radial tires are designed...the tread blocks are open on the sides, running part-way up into the sidewalls. That's done so that the tread can still displace water even as the outside of the tire leans over in corners. But, as the tire rotates, an twisting force from front to rear is put on those tread-blocks from the weight of the car and tire pressing down on them, and that forces the edges of the tread-blocks to wear slightly more in one direction and cause the feathering. Usually it's not severe....but, even with normal conditions, you can feel it with your hands or fingertips. But, that's one of the key reasons why most tires make more road noise as they age. Sometimes you can reverse that feathering effect by cross-rotating tires from the left to the right side of the car and changing the rolling direction...but some tire shops won't do that with radials and/or belted tires because they claim it can loosen the belts. I don't know....I'm not enough of a tire engineer to verify if that part is is true or not. But I've done it a few times, and never had any further problems.
Second, if the tread is worn more on the sides than in the middle, then, yes, that is usually a sign of underinflation (and keep in mind, on a hot or cold day, that tire pressure will vary roughly 1 PSI for every ten degrees Farenheit in air temperature). Tires will, of course, heat up even more in direct sunlight, due to the heat-absorbing characteristics of the black color....more heat means higher pressure. And even normally-inflated tires can wear more on the edges than in the middle if you have an aggressive driver that does a lot of hard cornering....that would not necessarily be a sign of underinflation.
Third, it's nice to have a tire-depth gauge, but, if you don't (or if you can't easily see the wear-bars), a general rule of thumb is to use an American Lincoln copper penny and stick it into what looks like the most worn area of the tread. If you can still see the top of Lincoln's head......then it time to go tire-shopping.
Last, don't be surprised if, all else equal, the exact same set of tires, on the same car, rides noticeably smoother in the summertime than in the winter, even at the same or higher PSI. That's because heat does two things.....it softens up the rubber in the tire, making it more compliant over bumps, and also thins out the hydraulic fluid in the shocks, making the shock-damping softer.
I'd like to add a couple of things, though.
First, it's almost impossible to avoid at least some (minor) feathering, even if you have perfect alignment and no suspension problems. That's because of the way that modern radial tires are designed...the tread blocks are open on the sides, running part-way up into the sidewalls. That's done so that the tread can still displace water even as the outside of the tire leans over in corners. But, as the tire rotates, an twisting force from front to rear is put on those tread-blocks from the weight of the car and tire pressing down on them, and that forces the edges of the tread-blocks to wear slightly more in one direction and cause the feathering. Usually it's not severe....but, even with normal conditions, you can feel it with your hands or fingertips. But, that's one of the key reasons why most tires make more road noise as they age. Sometimes you can reverse that feathering effect by cross-rotating tires from the left to the right side of the car and changing the rolling direction...but some tire shops won't do that with radials and/or belted tires because they claim it can loosen the belts. I don't know....I'm not enough of a tire engineer to verify if that part is is true or not. But I've done it a few times, and never had any further problems.
Second, if the tread is worn more on the sides than in the middle, then, yes, that is usually a sign of underinflation (and keep in mind, on a hot or cold day, that tire pressure will vary roughly 1 PSI for every ten degrees Farenheit in air temperature). Tires will, of course, heat up even more in direct sunlight, due to the heat-absorbing characteristics of the black color....more heat means higher pressure. And even normally-inflated tires can wear more on the edges than in the middle if you have an aggressive driver that does a lot of hard cornering....that would not necessarily be a sign of underinflation.
Third, it's nice to have a tire-depth gauge, but, if you don't (or if you can't easily see the wear-bars), a general rule of thumb is to use an American Lincoln copper penny and stick it into what looks like the most worn area of the tread. If you can still see the top of Lincoln's head......then it time to go tire-shopping.
Last, don't be surprised if, all else equal, the exact same set of tires, on the same car, rides noticeably smoother in the summertime than in the winter, even at the same or higher PSI. That's because heat does two things.....it softens up the rubber in the tire, making it more compliant over bumps, and also thins out the hydraulic fluid in the shocks, making the shock-damping softer.
02-13-17, 06:43 PM
#13
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
I'd recommend not ever doing this, except for very specific reasons/circumstances.
First, you're not saving as much money as you think. Second, SWLS15 is absolutely right. Your entire car is dependent on 4 little patches that touch the road. You shouldn't be willing to sacrifice safety for a few hundred dollars. Not just for you, for others on the road.
Used tires have no history. They can be plugged (rusted steel belts), patched, or otherwise dangerous. Hidden defects in old or damaged tires can rear their ugly heads at high speed on the highway. You do not want this.
https://youtu.be/kGZ7MMqlco8
That set of tires that "looks" good is probably only good for another few months anyway. Why bother?
First, you're not saving as much money as you think. Second, SWLS15 is absolutely right. Your entire car is dependent on 4 little patches that touch the road. You shouldn't be willing to sacrifice safety for a few hundred dollars. Not just for you, for others on the road.
Used tires have no history. They can be plugged (rusted steel belts), patched, or otherwise dangerous. Hidden defects in old or damaged tires can rear their ugly heads at high speed on the highway. You do not want this.
https://youtu.be/kGZ7MMqlco8
That set of tires that "looks" good is probably only good for another few months anyway. Why bother?
"You know what else is dangerous? ..." You glossed over the age of the tire. I believe that you did not emphasize enough that the rubber in a tire does dry out (deteriorate) over time, and that tires that are approximately 5 years old or older (since manufacture) should NOT be used. This is not only important when buying used tires but when buying discounted (but little-used / unused) tires, as they may have been sitting in storage for a while.
Cutting the tire open was a learning experience for me too, I have never seen the inside of a tire myself. It was a bit difficult in the beginning trying to hold the tire, I should have used a cutting wheel and something to support the tire to make it safer. It did smell like burnt rubber for a while after haha.
Great video thank you for this - I bought a set of 4 used tires for my 2010 LS for $130 (I know I know) and ended up getting a set of 4 new tires for $9xx a month later. There are some decent deals to be had with fresh take-offs but those are more often found on SUV's and trucks (where owners swap them out for bigger rims) than Lexus sedans...here in Dallas you can find a lot of new Wrangler tires with/without factory rims for really cheap.
This video helps a lot for those looking at used tires to understand not all tires are created equal, and not all used tires are a great deal!
This video helps a lot for those looking at used tires to understand not all tires are created equal, and not all used tires are a great deal!
02-13-17, 06:58 PM
#14
Lexus Fanatic
No, I can be that quick. 100% unequivocally I would never, ever buy used tires for a car that I or my family would ride in. I think its a silly way to save money.
If somebody can't afford a new set of safe tires for their car, they should not be driving a car on public roads. Lets be real here, this is a Lexus forum. If somebody can buy and maintain a Lexus, even an old one, they can buy a set of new tires. Does this person have a cell phone? Do they have cable? Do they ever eat in a restaurant or buy an alcoholic beverage? Ever take a vacation? They can buy a set of tires...its all about priorities. For me, my and my family's safety is priority #1. I would feel pretty terrible if there was a blowout and somebody I love was injured or killed, the couple hundred bucks I saved on tires would seem pretty meaningless at that point.
I just can never know what a used set of tires has been through, or what kind of life or safety I will have.
As for the lease return? If I am supposed to buy a set of tires for my lease return I buy a set of new tires...because I care about your safety too...
Buying used tires on a lease return...classless IMHO.
I don't buy used cars either. But, at least a used car you can have it safety inspected, have a realistic idea of whether or not it will keep you and your family safe on the road.
Not everyone can afford a set of brand new tires, or see it worth it if they're returning a lease or scrapping a car in a few months.
I just can never know what a used set of tires has been through, or what kind of life or safety I will have.
As for the lease return? If I am supposed to buy a set of tires for my lease return I buy a set of new tires...because I care about your safety too...
Buying used tires on a lease return...classless IMHO.
Buying a used car carries much more risk and you can't argue the same.
02-13-17, 07:00 PM
#15
Lexus Champion
Well with these strict standards I sure hope no one is selling used tires and rims on CL's classified sections, especially for such high performance cars with the capability of roaring down various highways and byways at extreme speeds. Ya know, could be trouble.