Inspect this car CAREFULLY. There may be a reason for its low price. Cars with flood/weather damage or other problems are sometimes dumped off on unsuspecting people. Also, if possible, try and get a CarFax report on it.

 

Mike, these are new cars from a Toyota dealer!

and I only posted to show the OP what kind of other options/prices are out there.

 

There was a recent comparison review, forgot which media, stating that the new Corolla structure [paraphrasing] feels like a "wet noodle" relative to other vehicles in its class, especially the Civic and Jetta. It also failed the small overlap test I believe.

 

Standard LEDs on the Corolla though... and the interior is very well done.

 

It got a "Marginal" rating on the small overlap, but still received a "Top Safety Pick" status. Still an area that Toyota needs to work on.

 

it was C&D and thats bull... not structure but interior quality was discussed... personally, it felt built like a tank.

it also did not fail small overlap.

 

This thread seems a bit of a moot point since you're already decided on the car.

Check the usual sources, TrueCar, Edmunds, etc to figure out what potential prices in your area are, current incentives, any purchasing programs you're part of (American Express, Costco, USAA, etc)

 

I understand, but that doesn't stop some dealerships. I've seen both brand-new and CPO's misrepresented as being without damage when in fact (after my inspection) I found evidence of a previous accident and incomplete repairs.

Friend, I made that post for a reason.

 

What dealerships claim is "Invoice" is not always true invoice. There are many factors that affect the true dealer-cost of a vehicle...particularly if holdback-fees are involved. For a car in the Corolla's low-cost/compact-sedan range, a general rule of thumb for dealer cost (though it can vary some) is about an 8% markup from wholesale to retail on the car's base price and maybe 10-12% on options....minus the destination charge. That's apart from factory-rebates. And the dealership, of course, is entitled to at least a couple of percentage points over their cost for their own profit and operating expenses....otherwise, the can't stay in business.

 

Here's an excerpt from it:

"Starting a sentence with “My old Toyota . . . ” used to have cachet, earned as it was by how often the next words were “ . . . has 300,000 miles on it.” This Corolla, though, lacks the sturdy feel of the cars that built the company’s reputation. It doesn’t feel like an old Toyota; it just feels old. Bumps and hard corners betray its flimsy structure. The doors have a hollow slam. With little of the sculpting that provides the support to keep passengers in place, its spacious rear seat tied for last in our comfort ratings. And there’s a gauziness to the major controls, reinforcing the impression that the car lacks a certain hardiness.

In addition to feeling old and flimsy, the Corolla feels tired, a reliable backmarker in performance testing.

http://www.caranddriver.com/comparis...old-kia-page-2

Also, how can something that's only marginal be considered good, especially for a new generation? It's one step above poor.

 

Keep in mind that the OP will probably not be putting the Corolla through the same driving conditions as a C&D test. Did C&D say how it was for a straight, every day commuter car?

 

When it comes to Toyota ignore everything C&D says.

 

Car & Driver is hardly the magazine that I should at for a Corolla.

All I want is A to B transportation with great reliability. I wouldn't be driving the Corolla fast at all.

The whole goal is to save money on gas, insurance, and car payments

 

I would look at the Yaris as well then

 

I don't know about the drone on the current gen, but my wife had an 08 Yaris and that thing was horribly loud on long trips