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here's the video us getting the wheels, steering wheel, and fixing the first power steering leak. i found another leak last weekend, this time on the high pressure line so gonna have to order one of those next, probably from drift motion. She starts right up every time now, however idles weird sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. first off gonna fix the exhaust leaks, there's lots of them, especially by the headers which could be the main issue, then will test for vacuum leaks, then replace coolant temp sensor, and if it's still not fixed then TPS and possibly even MAF. So going from most free to most expensive fixes, even though most of it is pretty cheap. This weekend we're hoping to flock the dash but the weather is looking like it's gonna suck so we'll see if we'll be able to do it, definitely gonna have to put the car in the garage as it's now on the driveway destroying my driveway with its leaks lol. enjoy the vid, got a few more to come, gonna edit another one today.
we finally got to drive the whip in this video. it was running well back then, it's been idling poorly lately though, i have some stuff i'm gonna go over. we're swapping the tranmission next weekend and hopefully going to the drift event on the 19th.
You may have luck with your idle by unplugging the ect sensor and seeing if it's any different, if it's the same then you know the sensors bad. Works with the Maf too, unplug it and see what happens, I've burned through about 3 used maf sensors over time that went bad with wonky reading or complete failure.
You may have luck with your idle by unplugging the ect sensor and seeing if it's any different, if it's the same then you know the sensors bad. Works with the Maf too, unplug it and see what happens, I've burned through about 3 used maf sensors over time that went bad with wonky reading or complete failure.
by ECT you mean Engine Coolant Temperature right? the little green one in the front of the block? yea i was planning on replacing that, it fixed a wonky idle on my last SC400, but that was more of misfire stuttering idle. the car won't stay running right now though, all i changed was unplug the O2 sensors while it was running and plugged them back in, nothing changed when i did that but right now it won't stay idling, slowly just dies which makes me think it's the TPS because it doesn't stutter or sound bad or anything, the RPMs just slowly drop to 0 like it doesn't know where the throttle is at. Code 13 is gone but Code 21 is always on now lol. i'm so confused by this car, it doesn't know what it's doing itself lol. I also have another upstream O2 sensor i'm gonna try changing see what that does.
i already tried the MAF and the car stalled instantly so that's working, i tried doing the same with the TPS but i didn't have enough room to unplug it so i'm gonna try again this week, Saturday we're swapping the transmission so i wanna get the car idling good. This week i'm gonna try going over all the little sensors that could be the issue.
1. i'll mess with the TPS (unplug/adjust)
2. change upstream O2
3. ECT sensor unplug
4. make a vaccum leak tester and check for more vaccum leaks.
In my experience these cars will run fine without downstream o2 sensors so I doubt that those readings are the problem.
The coolant temp sensor(green one like you were saying), had one fail on my older car and it would require a little throttle input to stay idling and have a hard time starting because it was running the car super rich.
Unplugging the MAF with the car running will shut the engine down(even a faulty maf), try unplugging it and starting the car. If it starts and idles you know you have a faulty Maf reading or a leak after the maf along the intake.
Would not recommend messing with the tps adjustment, it can send your car into random limp modes where you cant rev about 2k.(after about 15 minutes of driving) Took me 1.5 years to find that out, if you want to make an adjustment like that, adjust the screw on the throttle body.
In my experience these cars will run fine without downstream o2 sensors so I doubt that those readings are the problem.
The coolant temp sensor(green one like you were saying), had one fail on my older car and it would require a little throttle input to stay idling and have a hard time starting because it was running the car super rich.
Unplugging the MAF with the car running will shut the engine down(even a faulty maf), try unplugging it and starting the car. If it starts and idles you know you have a faulty Maf reading or a leak after the maf along the intake.
Would not recommend messing with the tps adjustment, it can send your car into random limp modes where you cant rev about 2k.(after about 15 minutes of driving) Took me 1.5 years to find that out, if you want to make an adjustment like that, adjust the screw on the throttle body.
the reason i suspect the TPS is because the previous owner painted the entire intake manifold really poorly and the TPS was probably completley removed. Judging from the quality of work done to this car by the PO i would suspect they never set the TPS correctly.
just ordered a temp sensor, both radiator hoses, thermostat and thermostat seal. pretty sure our thermostat was stuck closed because no water was flowing through the radiator just sitting at the top of it.
ok received my toyofan diagnostics box today, got it reading the ECU. tried starting the car and it ran absolutely perfect, now i'm super confused lol. So it was running flawlessly for a minute or so then started to stumble, little blip of throttle got it idling perfect again, i did that like 3 times before shutting it off.
I then unplugged the MAF, started the car, it barely ran, turned it off. Plugged MAF back in, started the car, idling beautifully now. besides that i didn't do anything else so i'm really confused as to what is going on lol. Maybe the MAF is on its last legs. Still gonna replace the things on my list and see how it goes then, replacing MAF will most likely be last.
Last edited by oldManTan; May 8, 2019 at 06:44 AM.
here's some pictures of recent updates, everyone loves pictures. interior is completely done now besides the switch panel and push button start, working on designing that now, just finished 3D scanning the interior yesterday.
ok so i was running the car some more yesterday and i figured out why it doesn't start when warm, the alternator is chooched! while running it was only 13.3V and when i shut the car off the battery was at 11.5V meaning the alternator isn't charging it and it's probably causing other issues as well. This weekend i'll try to clean the alternator and cover it with a milk jug from the power steering pump, hopefully that fixes it just enough for the drift event on the 19th.
yea we're probably not gonna make the drift event on the 19th lol. we got the transmission out and everything else associated with it, so it's just a motor and diff in the car now. took us like 10 hours with a burrito break in the middle. This weekend we're gonna install the CD009, weld the diff, hopefully fix the bent traction arm or replace it, and attach the efans. One of those things we probably won't finish in a day so that's why i'm thinking we won't make the event. there's also a bunch of other random stuff that has to be done still.
another video today, we ripped the hydro fan out and fixed the dented radiator support beam by cutting it out and replacing it with a piece of angle iron, so it's kind of a bash bar there now lol.
