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So youre saying even in power mode it wont down shift to the lowest possible gear at full throttle or hold max RPMs longer untill it is warmed up. That actually does make sense. Thats funny we both have a similar mind set when it comes to hiding that power light
correct on all counts. I enjoy the feel of Power mode but I hate the little light. My other big complaint is the delay between hitting the gas and the actual shift.
Yeah the delay can be annoying and some days it feels slower than others. I think the shimmed valve body accumulators I will do will help with this, and I feel like the torque converter almost makes up for it.
After the TC, I was going 30mph the other day, nailed the throttle in sport mode where it down shifted into first gear, and broke the tires loose. VSC lit up, and this was all surprising with my Michelin Super Sports because the only time I could break the tires loose above 30mph was when I had bald tires in the back in the rain.
Anyways I also painted the brackets black as the raw aluminum were poking through the grill really bad.
Here is also a picture I made that explains VB mods to those curious about how most are done. Lexus and Toyota also have well-known 3 way line adjustment ***** in the trans pans. There can be also many other things done, such as more aggressive plunger/directional valves, drilling different passages but this covers the DIY stuff about shimming accumulators with shims, rods, and drilling out the most common ATF passages. Keep in mind this whole assembly in the picture is actually upside down when it is in the transmission.
Okay so I finally raised the Valve Body Line Pressure to Max (outside of drilling out separator plate passages) and machined my own 3 rounded stainless steel rods to place in the accumulators along with some other tricks.
The results are amazing, the car finally feels like a sports car when accelerating. I do have to admit, the shifts are a little much at slow speeds so I probably could have made the rods a little shorter. Although it is definitely not a slushbox anymore, and at full throttle something awesome happens. With the 3.769 gears, the acceleration is strong, and the launch is hard with the 3000 Stall Converter.
0-38mph is quick with the TC and the 1-2 shift is slightly quicker. 38mph to 58mph is fast with the short rear end ratio, but at 58mph the 2-3 shift it feels like the car hit a 50 shot of NOS and just slingshots the car foward. (Before the mod, it would feel like it was just slightly sleeping and falling on it's face in the 2-3 shift and above shifts.) The 3rd gear is long, but goes from 58mph to ~90mph quick, and at 90mph the 3-4 shift feels like a 75 shot of NOS this time which is crazy. I haven't shifted from 4th to 5th at WOT but I would like to try this. I am imagining that it would be softer but I thought the same thing about the 3-4 shift and was wrong.
The shifts are incredible at WOT. They aren't neck snapping but you definitely feel the car being sling-shot hard even at the 58mph and 90mph gear changes. I think to have neck snapping, you would have to drill out the valve body separator plate passages aggressively. Although, maybe drilling them slightly while shimming the accumulators less, would increase slow speed comfort but with great WOT changes.
Here are some pictures, including exactly what bolts to take out of the VB. There are 20x 10mm bolts that are all different lengths, with one very long center one. I made a drawing on cardboard and poked holes with a screwdriver to place the bolts in as a template. I also show what the correct neutral shift rod position is and numbered.
Okay here is a video showing acceleration from 0~93mph in 12 seconds flat. Not bad considering most newer 600CC sport bikes get to 100mph in around 9 to ~10 seconds. Im only after around ~3.5 seconds behind to 100. For some reason, when you look at the video thumbnail it says 13:00 seconds for the video but it is 12 on my phone and resumes to 12 once you hit play.
I had a problem with traction control. If I left it on, it would trigger ABS on the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts and pause the acceleration. It probably sensed the rear wheels spinning excessively. It stopped this after I turned VSC off. Sport mode was also on for this video but I removed the light bulb and you cant see it. I think I need to get something via GPS to measure 1/4 times for more accurate time measurements.
Yes it's all N/A and thanks man! The 0-60 is roughly 5 seconds flat. I was hoping for 4.8-4.9 and it might get close but it's hard to tell because the analog oil-filled needle doesn't seem like it is keeping up with the acceleration.
I've been thinking about raising the rev limit to 7200K (I do know how to do this) so I don't have to shift into 3rd before I hit 60mph with the 3.77 gears. This would put me back to the stock 3.23 gear shifting MPHs but with more torque from the short gears. This would possibly get me 4.8 seconds consistently if all remains the same and get a better exhaust note
But if I loose power after 6200RPMS, the 0-60 and 1/4 mile might remain the same even though the rev limit is higher and I would probably be just putting excess stress on the engine. But going back to stock rev limit would take a few minutes.
I also really wanted cams for this car. I contacted Kelford cams in New Zealand and unfortunately they only make and regrind the non-VVTi cams. The 1998+ 1UZFE-VVTi cams would be a whopping $2,000 after shipping them stock ones, welding and re-grinding them, and a months wait time. Depending how aggressive you go, you might need shims too.
I would also like to remove the bulb for vsc off. I want to wire it up so when I hit the button, it turns the key ring light red with an led. Lucky for me, someone just posted up the whole wiring diagrams for these cars and its right in there.
Or do that for the pwr mode. Or make the switches themselves change color
I would also like to remove the bulb for vsc off. I want to wire it up so when I hit the button, it turns the key ring light red with an led. Lucky for me, someone just posted up the whole wiring diagrams for these cars and its right in there.
Or do that for the pwr mode. Or make the switches themselves change color
THAT would be cool. I'd be interested in a writeup for that.
I got it wired up already! In the daylight with the sun glaring into the car, the red LED is still very bright, there is no doubt when it is on.
The way I mod it retains the stock 74 green-tipped filament bulb that lights up when the door is open.
I used a 3mm clear bright red LED and it is kind of just press-fit in between one of 3 key ring retainers that is apart of the assembly and won't go anywhere. I will probably change this all to a more professional setup eventually but that would just be for wiring appearances.
Alot of current runs through the stock VSC OFF bulb I pulled, and I didn't have a high enough wattage resistor around 10W to combat this, so I used a metal 16mm 5k potentiometer and the brightness was best at 1K ohms, any less and it would probably generate too much heat.
These wires are spliced into the harness going to the cluster. One is a Red Wire with a Blue Stripe which is constant 12v power to the middle cluster bulbs. The other is a green wire on a connector that literally has duplicates of every color wire above it. This one happens to be on the side where the harness connecter is flat and not on the button release side. This is the wire that actually completes the circuit to the cluster bulb when VSC is turned off, and the light will come on now.
I got it wired up already! In the daylight with the sun glaring into the car, the red LED is still very bright, there is no doubt when it is on.
The way I mod it retains the stock 74 green-tipped filament bulb that lights up when the door is open.
I used a 3mm clear bright red LED and it is kind of just press-fit in between one of 3 key ring retainers that is apart of the assembly and won't go anywhere. I will probably change this all to a more professional setup eventually but that would just be for wiring appearances.
Alot of current runs through the stock VSC OFF bulb I pulled, and I didn't have a high enough wattage resistor around 10W to combat this, so I used a metal 16mm 5k potentiometer and the brightness was best at 1K ohms, any less and it would probably generate too much heat.
These wires are spliced into the harness going to the cluster. One is a Red Wire with a Blue Stripe which is constant 12v power to the middle cluster bulbs. The other is a green wire on a connector that literally has duplicates of every color wire above it. This one happens to be on the side where the harness connecter is flat and not on the button release side. This is the wire that actually completes the circuit to the cluster bulb when VSC is turned off, and the light will come on now.
Of course! Here are some pics with some captions explaining the mod and a video. There was a cool unexpected thing I forgot about. When you start the car, signal goes to a lot of idiot bulbs, including the VSC off. So because I took the bulb out, and intercepted the signal to the LED, it lights up the ring red for a few seconds when you put the key in! And FWIW, I did not cut these wires, I just tapped into them.
04-08-17, 05:38 PM
