DIY: Replacing air/fuel sensor
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,329
Likes: 210
From: Miami, Florida
Yes, it can be annoying given the area that it's in. I've seen the electrical connector and A/F sensor removed on a Camry at a Toyota dealer and it was a PITA for them, too.
Here's Bank 2, Sensor 1
Here's Bank 2, Sensor 1
Lexus Champion
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 16
From: Ca.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,329
Likes: 210
From: Miami, Florida
I won't go for service there (I don't need to), but in some smaller communities it can be an option for people. Some of my relatives in rural Illinois fall into this category there may not be other options particularly if they own a vehicle where the dealer is a long drive.
I do like shopping at Pep Boys for other things like fluids and they'd be number #1 in my book there.
Pit Crew
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 2
From: CA
Cannot get the Sensor out!!!
I started with Bank2 Sensor 1 (the one behind the radiator and easily accessible). I sprayed PB blaster and left if for about 2 hours.
Whatever i do i am not able to get it out. I tried Sensor Socket, Open end wrench and also an elbow wrench which did allow the whole wire to pass through it.
I guess the sensor is very strongly sealed.
I am scared to use the hammer strokes on the wrench fearing that it may break the joint. Any more recommendations other than i take it to a mechanic
Is it advisable to use strong hammer blows on the wrench?
Whatever i do i am not able to get it out. I tried Sensor Socket, Open end wrench and also an elbow wrench which did allow the whole wire to pass through it.
I guess the sensor is very strongly sealed.
I am scared to use the hammer strokes on the wrench fearing that it may break the joint. Any more recommendations other than i take it to a mechanic
Is it advisable to use strong hammer blows on the wrench?
Lexus Champion
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 16
From: Ca.
I started with Bank2 Sensor 1 (the one behind the radiator and easily accessible). I sprayed PB blaster and left if for about 2 hours.
Whatever i do i am not able to get it out. I tried Sensor Socket, Open end wrench and also an elbow wrench which did allow the whole wire to pass through it.
I guess the sensor is very strongly sealed.
I am scared to use the hammer strokes on the wrench fearing that it may break the joint. Any more recommendations other than i take it to a mechanic
Is it advisable to use strong hammer blows on the wrench?
Whatever i do i am not able to get it out. I tried Sensor Socket, Open end wrench and also an elbow wrench which did allow the whole wire to pass through it.
I guess the sensor is very strongly sealed.
I am scared to use the hammer strokes on the wrench fearing that it may break the joint. Any more recommendations other than i take it to a mechanic
Is it advisable to use strong hammer blows on the wrench?
P.S. Where are you in CA.? If you were in the OC area I would do it for you free of charge.
Last edited by code58; Apr 25, 2010 at 11:18 PM.
Pit Crew
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 2
From: CA
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Rookie
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Try starting the engine and let it run for 10/20 min. Shut the motor off and put on some good gloves. Be careful (HOT). Put the box wrench on and try to loosen it.
Sometimes the heat of just running the engine for a few min will expand the joint enough to loosen it. If that don't work try the torch and put a cold wet rag on it after its hot. The cold will brake the rust loose on the hot joint.
If that don't work
Jerry
Sometimes the heat of just running the engine for a few min will expand the joint enough to loosen it. If that don't work try the torch and put a cold wet rag on it after its hot. The cold will brake the rust loose on the hot joint.
If that don't work
Jerry
Lexus Champion
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 16
From: Ca.
Try starting the engine and let it run for 10/20 min. Shut the motor off and put on some good gloves. Be careful (HOT). Put the box wrench on and try to loosen it.
Sometimes the heat of just running the engine for a few min will expand the joint enough to loosen it. If that don't work try the torch and put a cold wet rag on it after its hot. The cold will brake the rust loose on the hot joint. NOT SO!
If that don't work
Jerry
Sometimes the heat of just running the engine for a few min will expand the joint enough to loosen it. If that don't work try the torch and put a cold wet rag on it after its hot. The cold will brake the rust loose on the hot joint. NOT SO!
If that don't work
Jerry
Pit Crew
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 2
From: CA
This is what i am planning to do.
Thanks for all the comments. This is what i am planning to do. Would really appreciate in case i need any modifications to this.
(1)- Run the car for about 2 minutes.
(2)- Carefully put lot of PB blaster at the joint. Since it is going to be hot i will have to put PB Blaster from a distance. I hope there is nothing nearby that can get damaged from the PB Blaster fluid??
(3)- After about 2 hours try Sensor Socket. If that does not work use closed wrench at the sensor joint and hammer it lightly.
(4) If this does not work then leave the closed wrench on the sensor joint and run the car for about 5 minutes so that it heats up.
(5) Carefully try to hammer the closed wrench while the manifold is hot.
I am hoping this would work. I am just trying the front sensor which was quoted as much easier than the B1S1 that is underneath. I am now not too optimistic if i would be able to open it especially with so limited space underneath the car with floor jack and jack stands.
(1)- Run the car for about 2 minutes.
(2)- Carefully put lot of PB blaster at the joint. Since it is going to be hot i will have to put PB Blaster from a distance. I hope there is nothing nearby that can get damaged from the PB Blaster fluid??
(3)- After about 2 hours try Sensor Socket. If that does not work use closed wrench at the sensor joint and hammer it lightly.
(4) If this does not work then leave the closed wrench on the sensor joint and run the car for about 5 minutes so that it heats up.
(5) Carefully try to hammer the closed wrench while the manifold is hot.
I am hoping this would work. I am just trying the front sensor which was quoted as much easier than the B1S1 that is underneath. I am now not too optimistic if i would be able to open it especially with so limited space underneath the car with floor jack and jack stands.
Rookie
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 84
Likes: 6
From: MO
I had the exact problem last week. I ended up taking it to the dealership to have the old sensor removed - I was worried I'd do something wrong and end up needing a new manifold. Took them a while to get it out. I had the part so I still saved some cash.
Makes you wonder about all those used manifolds on ebay that just happen to come with the sensor attached.
Makes you wonder about all those used manifolds on ebay that just happen to come with the sensor attached.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,559
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
I have not had the need to replace the sensor, but here are general guidelines.
The penetrating fluids work better if give them more time.
I would suggest. [imho step 1 is wrong or out of sequence and a bit dangerous]
With the manifold COLD spray the fluid. Put a rag and soak it on the sensor. Leave it there for overnight.
If you have the socket (split to run the wire), you can try putting on a clamp on top to prevent any spread. If it does not come out easy, then it is time to add heat. With open flame, make sure the rag soaked with penetrating fluid is off. [standard safety with open flame needs to be exercised]
DIYers typically would reach for a propane torch. MAP is an alternative fuel, which produces a bit more heat.
For stuck bolts, I try to unthread a bit and then thread back half way. This keeps the cut threads ready to accept the replacement. Also that is the time the penetrating fluid works back in ... so blast away as you do the partial rethreads.
Salim
The penetrating fluids work better if give them more time.
I would suggest. [imho step 1 is wrong or out of sequence and a bit dangerous]
With the manifold COLD spray the fluid. Put a rag and soak it on the sensor. Leave it there for overnight.
If you have the socket (split to run the wire), you can try putting on a clamp on top to prevent any spread. If it does not come out easy, then it is time to add heat. With open flame, make sure the rag soaked with penetrating fluid is off. [standard safety with open flame needs to be exercised]
DIYers typically would reach for a propane torch. MAP is an alternative fuel, which produces a bit more heat.
For stuck bolts, I try to unthread a bit and then thread back half way. This keeps the cut threads ready to accept the replacement. Also that is the time the penetrating fluid works back in ... so blast away as you do the partial rethreads.
Salim
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 126
From: Illinois
I started with Bank2 Sensor 1 (the one behind the radiator and easily accessible). I sprayed PB blaster and left if for about 2 hours.
Whatever i do i am not able to get it out. I tried Sensor Socket, Open end wrench and also an elbow wrench which did allow the whole wire to pass through it.
I guess the sensor is very strongly sealed.
I am scared to use the hammer strokes on the wrench fearing that it may break the joint. Any more recommendations other than i take it to a mechanic
Whatever i do i am not able to get it out. I tried Sensor Socket, Open end wrench and also an elbow wrench which did allow the whole wire to pass through it.
I guess the sensor is very strongly sealed.
I am scared to use the hammer strokes on the wrench fearing that it may break the joint. Any more recommendations other than i take it to a mechanic
I actually used Brake Fluid for a penetrant.
Works evrey time.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 16
From: Ca.
If true, it's the 1st time in my life I've ever heard of that. 