DIY: Replacing air/fuel sensor
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: WV
Fused Pre Cat Rear A/F Sensor
My sensor appears to be fused to the exhaust manifold on my 2002 Rx300. I sprayed PB Blaster two days apart and can't shake it loose. Any suggestions? If I have to get the manifold replaced is that reasonable (cost?) or should I just live with the bad sensor.
Last edited by WVRx300; Dec 23, 2010 at 05:35 PM. Reason: Update
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: WV
Went to a local garage and they got the sensor off (threads stripped). They had to tap new threads and put the new sensor on for $72. Bought the Denso sensor online for $115, and wrench kit for $25. Thanks for your input.
Last edited by WVRx300; Dec 27, 2010 at 01:51 PM. Reason: update
Driver
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: tx
I'm going to attempt this today to solve P0135 and replace sensor 1 bank 1 on my RX300.
Two questions for the group?
1. Do I ned to purchase the O2 socket tool, or can I sucessfully do this with a regular flare wrench? I sprayed WD40 on the part overnight to help loosen it.
2. Is there a way to test the sensor or confirm it needs to be replaced before I struggle to remove it?
Happy holidays
Two questions for the group?
1. Do I ned to purchase the O2 socket tool, or can I sucessfully do this with a regular flare wrench? I sprayed WD40 on the part overnight to help loosen it.
2. Is there a way to test the sensor or confirm it needs to be replaced before I struggle to remove it?
Happy holidays
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,533
Likes: 1,379
From: Austin, TX
Really depends upon how hard the sensor is stuck in there. Once you round off the edges and burst your knuckles, things start going bad. So I would suggest buy a good tool and put a hose clamp (to prevent the tool to open up).
Good quality box wrench may work (depending upon clearance).
Last of all dont just un-thread in one go. Losses a bit and tighten back a small amount. By working it back and forth, and spraying it to keep the threads wet will help you install the new sensor. Once it budges, spray and let it sit for few minutes.
Once you have the sensor out and you are at 100k+ miles, I would go ahead and replace it and then see if the cel goes away.
Salim
WD40 is not by first choice for rusted bolts/nuts. I do have other uses for WD40.
Good quality box wrench may work (depending upon clearance).
Last of all dont just un-thread in one go. Losses a bit and tighten back a small amount. By working it back and forth, and spraying it to keep the threads wet will help you install the new sensor. Once it budges, spray and let it sit for few minutes.
Once you have the sensor out and you are at 100k+ miles, I would go ahead and replace it and then see if the cel goes away.
Salim
WD40 is not by first choice for rusted bolts/nuts. I do have other uses for WD40.
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: VA
I would get the tool kit. It's only about 20 bucks online and should help prevent any headaches, and you will have it in your arsenal for future use. I would use PB Blaster instead of WD40, much better wicking and penetration and helps break up the carbon much better. A can of it is cheap and you can get it anywhere. Good tip on break it loose, re tighten it, and continue to turn it clockwise/counter clockwise until it is all the way out.
And yes, the tool will "open" on you since it is split, and getting a hose clamp on it to help strengthen it from bending open is a great idea.
And yes, the tool will "open" on you since it is split, and getting a hose clamp on it to help strengthen it from bending open is a great idea.
Driver
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: tx
Thanks for the replies.
I did two overnight applications of PB Blaster, and today tried using the O2 socket (from Autozone) while the car was still warm.
It didn't budge
Local garage quote me $90 to remove the sensor, but I think I can still try some more...Wish me luck...
I did two overnight applications of PB Blaster, and today tried using the O2 socket (from Autozone) while the car was still warm.
It didn't budge
Local garage quote me $90 to remove the sensor, but I think I can still try some more...Wish me luck...
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: UK
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: UK
For people struggling to get the sensor off. I took an angle grinder and cut right through the sensor. Was then able to get a solid 22mm socket and loosened off straight away. This was after struggling for hours with sensor socket , pb blaster and heat!
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,533
Likes: 1,379
From: Austin, TX
Was there any difference in leverage with socket vs tool?
Salim
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: UK
In my experience
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00307POT...SIN=B00307POT2 didnt give any "purchase" at all. Due to the large opening the socket seemed to open up and not get good grip on the bolt.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000MQ7XR...SIN=B000MQ7XRA - this was slightly better and felt more solid. However again i think the opening prevents it from getting a good grip and it splays a little bit.
I used the draper sensor socket on the a/f sensor you access from under the hood (bank 1 sensor 2) and it loosened pretty much straight away. In my experience the dedicated wrench was not much use.
