BlueCrabby

Did you guy just throw the bad sensors in the trash or recycling bins? That's what I did.

I just found out today that there are places that buy old dead oxygen sensors. I was dropping off a dead car battery at a local recycling company. They pay $9 cash for an average-size car battery.

The guy was handing me the $9 cash and I noticed the price list also had oxygen sensors. I asked him how much they pay for used dead oxygen sensors. He said $10.50 for a pound, excluding wires/connectors. He said if I only have one, I'll get just $1. $1 is a $1, right? So I basically just threw $1 into the trash. He said they have a LOT of old oxygen sensors from all the repair facilities car dealer service departments and even hospitals/clinics. He showed me the back and there was a little mountain of oxygen sensors of all shapes and sizes. It was at least 5-feet tall!. They take oxygen sensors, MAF, and other car stuff... because these things contain gold and platinum inside. They all get sent to a processing plant where they melt them down and extract the precious metals.

If I ever need to change the other two sensors, I'll be sure to save them and recycle them for $2. (plus it's better for the environment, right?)

jrtalbot

I see most people have difficulty disconnecting the oxygen sensor plug from the socket at the top of the engine bay. I did too, then I remembered someone who said should should here a click when the locking tab is released. So I pressed on the locking tab with a screwdriver, heard the clock and whoopee!, plug came out easily. This might help or I could just have been lucky.
Jim

Briand_OH

My $0.02:

If you're super-organized and don't like to have old stuff lying around, sure, sell old O2 for a $1. IMO, having some OEM sensor plugs around if I'm going to still own the vehicle OR others of the same make is worth a $1. AND...you might have occasion to use old O2 sensor on other project....I've got a race car that'd got some DCOE carbs and someday....I might drill the header and install old O2 sensor for a Fuel/air meter....

BlueCrabby

I installed the B1S1 sensor 10 days ago. I only hand-tightened it with the sensor wrench.

Is that enough or is there a specific number that I need to torque it to?

Thanks!

salimshah

No .. it must be torqued down. Vibrations will make it worse. 31ft-lb

Salim

BlueCrabby

Thanks! Time for me to buy a new torque wrench tomorrow. My MIL borrowed it to torque her wheels and never returned it.

SandyBeach

Hi,
My first time replying to this site. Hope I'm doing it right.

I changed out my sensor this week also. Had a hell of time getting the sensor off the plug, as most of us have experienced. Then I thought about the person who used his super powerful thumb to push down on it, but most of us probably don't have a super powerful thumb. So then I began to think of a solution. A Mini Screwdriver should do the trick. So just like JRTalbot, I used the screwdriver idea.

I essentially pushed the flat head part of the screwdriver into the very top of the sensor plug and ever so slowly, push down on the handle of the screwdriver (since the flat head portion is attached into the top portion of the plug you have some leverage working in your favor) and try to loosen the plug with your fingers. Since you can only fit one hand through, you really need to be patient and work it loose with your fingers.

I'm not exactly sure if this method worked or not, because I also tried this other method. Again, with the flat head part of the screwdriver slipped into the top portion of the sensor plug, I simply turned the screwdriver handle about a bit less than 1/8th of a turn clockwise, and was using my free fingers to loosen the plug. It took a lot of effort going back and forth on the two methods, but eventually it was able to free the plug. So not exactly sure which method worked, but one of them did. Whole thing took about 15-20 minutes...so just be patient.

Bakonman

Here is what I did to get the connecter apart. I took a pair of small needle nose vice grips, put one end into the slot past the wires and the other end against the tab release. Once I locked the vice grips and depressed the tab, the connector pulled right out.

I put Liquid Wrench on the sensor threads the night before. Used a 7/8 offset box wrench and pulled hard one time and the sensor broke loose. I was able to unscrew the sensor by hand. Now just waiting for my new sensors to arrive. New sensors and a cleaning of the MAF should clear my P1130 and P1150 codes (I hope).

The local garage wanted to replace both sensors and clean the MAF for $1,247. I ended up spending $208 for the sensors including shipping. Saved myself over $1,000.

Thanks to all who provided much needed information.

kasak

I had the P0135 Oxygen sensor heater bank1 sensor1 code. Bought two sensors from Amazon (112 each) and got them replaced both at a shop for $70.
The new ones have the 4 think colored wires exposed at the ends. Is that OK? Since it is too hot there, should I cover them up with some tape? Any special tape to withstand those temps? thanks..

fastnoypi

You can leave it alone. .but if you are worried, you can wrap the exposed with foil or wire loom and electrical tape.

jonathanrn

I know the original post is like 6 years old, but I wanted to thank the OP for the guide. I just did the repair on my '01 RX. My only comment would be, don't even get the sensor socket. I unclipped the connector and slid the elbow wrench over the connector down to the sensor. It worked perfectly. Thanks again!

Jonathan

Levictus

Sorry to revive this old thread. I didn't really read past the diy for the fix but should have. Trying to save some cash, I ordered a Chinese equivalent part off ebay for $25. I easily removed the old and installed the new sensor in about 15 min after soaking with PB Blaster overnight.

I cleared the code by removing the fuse as instructed, fired up the car and the codes returned in about 20 seconds. I used my obd2 tool to clear the code and again it came back. Took the RX for a drive, cleared the code a couple times and it returned every time. Ugh, why did I buy the Chinese sensor?!

As a last ditch effort, I am going to clean the MAF sensor tomorrow and see if that helps but I'm not optimistic. The filter was changed about 200 miles ago... I will likely be ordering a Denso from Amazon

Don't buy Chinese!

maxSteel

AdvanceAuto lends out the sensor tools.

imherenow

dang it so i got this code on my 2000 lexus es300 . P0171, But after deleting the code with a scanner. It never came back, however I am sure something is trigging it. So I will just going to tackle the sensor instead of going and cleaning the MAF or throttle body etc. because those things I cleaned like 2 years ago.
anyways just o make sure i have the things and parts below right :

Its a A/F sensor in Bank 1 Sensor 1 and the part number is Denso part number is 234-9009. BUT i thought its DENSO 234-9007 for Bank 1 sensor 1??

thanks

carguy07

B1S1 & B2S1 are both 234-9009