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DIY Rear Control Arms

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Old 04-21-16, 01:40 PM
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thaeleelyr
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Default DIY Rear Control Arms

This DIY isn't getting done. Leaving it for the bolt requirements.

As I live in a cold region: almost every single bolt & nut was rusted permanently to the frame, hub, or bushing sleeve. They had to be cut out and new ones ordered (see the next post), which was very expensive. The cheapest place to get them was on Parts.com . It utilizes a network of Toyota dealerships and has the best prices on the web. My parts came from a Toyota dealership in Florida. They were fast, friendly, and didn't stick me for shipping. When ordering you can include your VIN number and they will check to make sure the part fits your vehicle.


Last edited by thaeleelyr; 06-10-16 at 03:07 AM.
Old 04-21-16, 01:57 PM
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Default Parts & Supplies

Parts:
(2) Moog part# K90714 Sway Bar Links | $26.78 / each
(2) Lexus Sway Bar Bushings 48818-20290 | $5.95 / each
(2) Moog RK641863 Rear Control Arm (forward position) | $33.79 / each
(2) Moog RK641872 Rear Control Arm (rearward position) | $42.79 / each
(2) Mevotech Trailing Arm | $23.99 / each
(2) Armstrong Distributors Polyurethane bushings

Hardware
See the following post.

Supplies (will be updated - those of you without road salt won't need some of this)
Penetrating oil
ratchet and/or breaker bars (2 needed
Sockets
12mm
14mm
17mm narrow
17mm standard
19mm
Wire brush (prep area)
grease/anti-seize



Last edited by thaeleelyr; 06-10-16 at 03:13 AM.
Old 04-21-16, 02:52 PM
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Default Hardware Needed

The most expensive bolt/nut combination is from a control arm to the knuckle (~$17 EACH). There are four (4) of these (two each side).



I hope the schematic is self-explanatory. I've included pricing to give you an idea of the cost. Here is a list of the needed hardware to do both sides in list form.

Control Arm (forward) to Frame, bolt : 90119-A0390 - 2 needed ($10.71/ea)
Control Arm (forward) to Frame, nut : 90080-17228 - 2 needed ($5.05/ea)
Control Arm (forward & rearward) to Hub, bolt: 90901-19002 - 4 needed ($16.17/ea)
Control Arm (forward & rearward) to Hub, nut: 90080-17265 - 4 needed ($0.98/ea)
Control Arm (rearward) to Frame (camber), bolt: 90119-12126 - 2 needed ($2.73/ea)
Control Arm (rearward) to Frame (camber), nut: 48452-32030 - 2 needed ($5.05/ea)
Control Arm (rearward) to Frame (camber), sleeve: 48409-32030 - 2 needed ($8.19/ea)
Trailing Arm (frame & hub use the same), bolt: 90080-11133 - 4 needed ($2.73/ea)
Trailing Arm (frame & hub use the same), nut: 90178-A0011 - 4 needed ($0.56/ea)

Note on Camber Adjustment Parts
The schematic was a bit confusing as it showed the same parts differently. Moreover the design of these parts has changed slightly. The inset photos show the parts as they are currently available. My camber adjuster came out as a bolt, nut, and a keyed sleeve to fit the camber plates on both sides (5 separate parts). Now it is a bolt, integrated nut, and integrated sleeve.


Last edited by thaeleelyr; 04-21-16 at 02:59 PM.
Old 04-21-16, 03:24 PM
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thaeleelyr
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Default Prep Work (for salted cars)

Order your parts. You may be able to get some usable bolts, etc. from a junk yard. If you need to order the bolts/nuts, expect to wait 5-10 business days to get them in if ordering online. 2-4 days via your local dealership. Plan accordingly.

Pre-treat your bolts

A few days to a week before you start:

Thoroughly rinse off the underside of your car to remove caked on salt & dirt. Allow to dry.

Once dry, take your 50/50 mix (or PB Blaster, etc.) and soak down every nut and bolt you intend to remove/replace. Don't forget the bolts holding the emergency cables (both sides) near the trailing arm - frame area and the sway bar links, in case you need/want to remove these.

You might find this easier with the wheels removed. If you need the vehicle, you'll just have to climb under. You'll have limited flaming ability as the gas tank is back here, so keep that in mind.


Last edited by thaeleelyr; 06-10-16 at 03:12 AM.
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