Ls misfire problems!!
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Virginia
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Ls misfire problems!!
hey fellas, what up. I'm part of the GS fam, but have a friend that has a LS. I think its a 98/99 model. Hes having problems with the firing. He keeps taking it to the shop he bought the car from instead of going to the dealer. This is the problem. They keep telling him that he's getting a misfire in cyl's 2/7 or something to that fact. I know it's 2cyl's, just dont remember which 2. Can someone give me a little insite as to what's the problem. Thanks
#5
#6
Pole Position
Ignition
This is funny because after I got my LS back from the shop, I need a tune up like now. Its draggin' a$$ bad. I ordered a wireset and plugs, plus two rotors. I'll check the distributor caps when I'm down there, but I don't think its them. And I doubt its the Ignition.
Anyone here have to replace any ignition coils on the first gen LS? and if so, how many miles?
If you hear popping and clanking when you drive and feel like it misfiring, you're gonna need a tune up. Its hard to notice any arcing with anything over 6 cylinders unless of course more than one location is arcing, or perhaps its on the ignition coil or distributor itself. (Also, it is easy to notice on something that has individual coils though - but we don't have that. - I digress)
Ignition on our cars are easy to check (first gen - that is).
Checking the relay is too.
Here is a snippet from the manual.
Ya'll should really invest in buying one.
I'll give you the snippett from the Ignition coil check....
INSPECTION OF IGNITION COILS
(RH AND LH)
HINT:
• When measuring left side coil, remove the battery.
• When measuring right side coil, remove the coil.
NOTICE: Do not wipe off the fluid seeping from the grommet
of the high–tension cord.
1. INSPECT PRIMARY COIL RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between positive
(+) and negative (–) terminals.
Primary coil resistance (Cold):
0.3–0.6 from –10 to +40°C (14–104°F)
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.
Maybe I'll do a write up on my job when I get it done... I just might.
Later
Anyone here have to replace any ignition coils on the first gen LS? and if so, how many miles?
If you hear popping and clanking when you drive and feel like it misfiring, you're gonna need a tune up. Its hard to notice any arcing with anything over 6 cylinders unless of course more than one location is arcing, or perhaps its on the ignition coil or distributor itself. (Also, it is easy to notice on something that has individual coils though - but we don't have that. - I digress)
Ignition on our cars are easy to check (first gen - that is).
Checking the relay is too.
Here is a snippet from the manual.
Ya'll should really invest in buying one.
I'll give you the snippett from the Ignition coil check....
INSPECTION OF IGNITION COILS
(RH AND LH)
HINT:
• When measuring left side coil, remove the battery.
• When measuring right side coil, remove the coil.
NOTICE: Do not wipe off the fluid seeping from the grommet
of the high–tension cord.
1. INSPECT PRIMARY COIL RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between positive
(+) and negative (–) terminals.
Primary coil resistance (Cold):
0.3–0.6 from –10 to +40°C (14–104°F)
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.
Maybe I'll do a write up on my job when I get it done... I just might.
Later
#7
Pole Position
Update
Sorry guys, I forgot my Camera.
So no pics taken when I did my Plugs, Wires, and rotors.
But I am still having an issue.
I replaced the wires with Denso and made sure I got the Paths correct.
I changed the Rotors, but not the Caps. Caps looked Fine. The rotors looked burned at the contacts.
I installed the Denso Plugs (PK20R11)
I checked the Ignition Coils, both of them were in spec.
After I got it all back together I am still having a shuddering issue and it feels like arcing but doesn't sound like it. (no popping and doesn't jerk like hell)
I am getting a code 13.
At a very light amount of pedal pressure is when the shuddering happens.
This causes the needle jump at least 5-750 rpm no matter where it is sitting. MPH doesn't seem to matter either.
I put it in Neutral while going down the HWY and did a pedal test and still the issue is there, so it can't be the transmission.
Oh and it idles like crap too, but doesn't bog out.
I'm getting a dull clanging sound when excelerating, (like broken bells).
Is this caused simply by the Speed Sensor or cam sensors, and is the code 13 (RPM signal) the Speed sensor? (I should have friggin checked - doh!?)
I want to fix this issue once and for all.
Oh! And While I was in there... I yanked that Damn ICV valve out of the Power steering pump. You can reach it from the bottom with a 17mm opened ended wrench. Moving it ever so slowly, it will come out and drop fluid so be ready for it.
Replaced it with a 14 x 1.5 plug and slim gasket from Pep Boys.
Yeah, it idles down when steering is tilt, but who cares? I don't have to spend another $100 on another friggin part. Don't forget to cap the vacuum lines too boys and girls.
So no pics taken when I did my Plugs, Wires, and rotors.
But I am still having an issue.
I replaced the wires with Denso and made sure I got the Paths correct.
I changed the Rotors, but not the Caps. Caps looked Fine. The rotors looked burned at the contacts.
I installed the Denso Plugs (PK20R11)
I checked the Ignition Coils, both of them were in spec.
After I got it all back together I am still having a shuddering issue and it feels like arcing but doesn't sound like it. (no popping and doesn't jerk like hell)
I am getting a code 13.
At a very light amount of pedal pressure is when the shuddering happens.
This causes the needle jump at least 5-750 rpm no matter where it is sitting. MPH doesn't seem to matter either.
I put it in Neutral while going down the HWY and did a pedal test and still the issue is there, so it can't be the transmission.
Oh and it idles like crap too, but doesn't bog out.
I'm getting a dull clanging sound when excelerating, (like broken bells).
Is this caused simply by the Speed Sensor or cam sensors, and is the code 13 (RPM signal) the Speed sensor? (I should have friggin checked - doh!?)
I want to fix this issue once and for all.
Oh! And While I was in there... I yanked that Damn ICV valve out of the Power steering pump. You can reach it from the bottom with a 17mm opened ended wrench. Moving it ever so slowly, it will come out and drop fluid so be ready for it.
Replaced it with a 14 x 1.5 plug and slim gasket from Pep Boys.
Yeah, it idles down when steering is tilt, but who cares? I don't have to spend another $100 on another friggin part. Don't forget to cap the vacuum lines too boys and girls.
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#8
Pole Position
found so far
I found this
so far....
I'm thinking Cam or Crank Pos Sensor.
Does the Code 13 point to a specific sensor?
And I could not locate the Engine Speed Sensor. Anyone have a pic as to where that is?
I don't want to drop fluid just to tear down the timing covers again if I don't have to.
so far....
I'm thinking Cam or Crank Pos Sensor.
Does the Code 13 point to a specific sensor?
And I could not locate the Engine Speed Sensor. Anyone have a pic as to where that is?
I don't want to drop fluid just to tear down the timing covers again if I don't have to.
Last edited by lorenzo816; 10-24-06 at 07:54 AM. Reason: update
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