Replacing factory ML sub, keeping stock location
#1
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Replacing factory ML sub, keeping stock location
My ML sub is blown. I don't really care to have more bass, I liked the way it sounded before and I like my trunk space. Are there any options for putting a free air sub in the same location? Possibly one that isnt as flimsy and prone to breaking as the ML? I really just want a stock replacement that isnt going to blow again.... thoughts?
#2
I recently spent quite a bit of time researching this and there really are virtually zero options. Cheapest option is going to be to buy a new ML sub from Sewell at about $310 after CL discount and hope it lasts longer than the 1-year warranty (it should but how long, who knows...) It can easily be installed by anyone with 2-thumbs. Otherwise its a sub in a sealed box in the trunk. Cheapo jobs will still run you around $500 while a good, custom enclosure with amp/sub will easily pass $1000. Depending on how much you can do yourself, you could save a few hundred in labor.
#3
Btw, there are ZERO aftermarket options for that location that are free air, 8 ohm. The design of the ML speaker is actually fairly impressive that it works as well as it does with the stock location constraints. Too bad it's prone to tears.
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I'm having the same issue and I ended up just unhooking the ML sub and it sounds fine without it. Just turn up the bass in the speakers from the head unit and it will at least solve the problem of the rattling sub.
Better than spending the money on a new sub that will eventually blow as well or spending a bunch of money on a sub that takes up space in your trunk.
Better than spending the money on a new sub that will eventually blow as well or spending a bunch of money on a sub that takes up space in your trunk.
#5
That's what I've done for now but I think soon enough I'll break down and buy a replacement ML sub. It's really the cheapest option and offers some much needed bass back into the system. The stock ML mids are pretty solid but obviously still lacking.
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hmmm. I just refuse to believe there isn't a way to make this work. Give me a few weeks and I'll see if I can come up with something and let you guys know.
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Ok so here is what I am going to try. This is an 8" 8-Ohm subwoofer from kicker that can run in a free-air type application. This is the best option I've found so far and for around $50, its definitely worth a shot. Obviously ill have to modify the opening where the ML sub goes in order to make it work, but honestly its not all that much fab work from the looks of it. The mounting depth is 4 1/16th inches, which mildly concerns me. I might have it stick into the trunk area slightly; or it may fit...tightly. I could also try and snug it up closer to the speaker grill inside the car. Either way it will look a lot cleaner than a box in the trunk.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20610C8...ures_and_specs
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20610C8...ures_and_specs
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Well, that sub will be a touch underpowered by the stock ML amp... hopefully not so much you'll get any clipping though... and it'd certainly be nice for folks out of warranty/ext warranty to have a box-free option, so please keep us updated on the progress...
Concerning the power issue... I may just do a line converter into a better amp depending on how its set up. What is the power output on the stock amp? I could possibly run in 12 ohm with a resistor. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the ML audio system?
#10
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TIS will have all the wiring info you need ($15 for 48 hours access)
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/
The stock ML sub input is 40 watts... so at 50-100 rated for that kicker sub as I said it'll be a little underpowered... (I dunno how "honest" either lexus or kickers ratings are so hard to say for sure if it'll be close enough not to clip)
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/
The stock ML sub input is 40 watts... so at 50-100 rated for that kicker sub as I said it'll be a little underpowered... (I dunno how "honest" either lexus or kickers ratings are so hard to say for sure if it'll be close enough not to clip)
#11
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The stock location is fine, there are a few options available that may work. With the way the stock sub mounts though you will have to cut the metal lip in order to fit a sub woofer there facing up instead of inverted like the stock one sits. Almost any option will require a different amp though as not many auto subs are 8 ohms and if you use a 4 ohm sub that 40 watts will turn to 20. I have never taken off the rear deck but I wonder if a 10" sub would fit there if a spacing ring was used. Options will of course cost you some time and money.
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