eicca

I found two other guys on this forum that had this issue but one of them never posted whether he solved it and the other rigged some hack job wiring.

But yeah. Unless I remove the 10A heater fuse from the driver side fuse panel, there is no power to the blower. In fact, the hot wire to the resistor/controller (blue/black) goes to ground when that fuse is in. I verified this with a multimeter.

I would really like some input on how to tell where the problem is. Where should I stick the multimeter and what should I look for?

My last few threads of mine have gone ignored. Please help me out this time, I would like to get SOMETHING fixed.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

thats not true i specifically commented on your HVAC control....and i told you, you might not want to buy this pieced together car.

also maybe instead of making new threads you just bump the old posts, helps people gather old incite and relay new info

eicca

I bumped the most relevant thread I could find. But after hours of searching I never really found a cause or proper solution. So let's work together, figure out exactly what's happening here and fix it so the information is available to the next person who will inevitably have this issue.

Number one place to start: what does the 10A heater fuse have in its circuit, and how are any of those related to the function of the heater relay?

Second question: what would cause the heater relay to ground the hot wire under one condition but connect it properly to the 12v source under another? Is the relay capable of receiving an incorrect signal? Is there something else between the relay and 50A fuse that would cause it to go to ground instead of positive?

eicca

One more piece to the puzzle: I'm only getting 6v and 0.1 amps at the aforementioned "heater" fuse. And when the car is off I'm getting -6v and -0.1a. That doesn't sound normal.

eicca

For the information of those who have this same issue, this is how you solve it:

Going into junction plug 2F, which is the lowest left plug on the passenger fuse panel, there is a purple wire, which goes into pin 12. Cut this purple wire ground it from the end coming out of the cable wrap. Do not ground the end coming out of the plug or you will blow your ECU-B2 fuse.

Some people say changing the body ECU solves the problem, others say it doesn't. In any case, having the ECU control whether or not the purple wire goes to ground is redundant. Cut it and ground it, and the blower should function normally, unless there are other problems elsewhere...

bruceb58

Out of curiosity, do you have the wiring diagram service manual? If so, why did you happen to do this to this particular wire?

eicca

that particular purple wire is the ground from the blower supply relay. That relay closes the circuit that gives the main power to the blower resistor and motor. For whatever reason, that purple wire only goes to ground when the body ECU switches it to ground (unless it does what it did in my car and sent 12v positive up it instead). That's a redundant step, I think, so I grounded it before the body ECU so the relay sends power to the blower when the car is switched on.

Learned all this from the EWD.

bruceb58

Sounds like your body ECU is bad.

That port of the ECU likely got fried by the relay coil getting shorted across.

eicca

Some people said a new B-ECU fixed their problem and some said it didn't. Nothing else whatsoever is wrong in the car, so the cut-n-splice fix is a much better solution for me than throwing parts and money at it.