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thanks for the input guys I will check out those things I need to get my wheels balanced for sure i just came back from a driving mission from Hialeah to Margate to take my buddy ti buy his first car ( 93 GS300 ) and i have a reall bad vibration at 60-75mph so a balance check is firts on my list. Also the rear axles where they meet up with the rear hub have been throwing out a lot of greas how can I fix that ? Looks like when I did my springs i kinda hit the part of the axle thats meets the hub with a pry bar and bend something enough to make the boot come off a bit. I but a clap on it but dosent seam to work to well will checkthis stuff out this weekend
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,021
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From: Palm Harbor ,Fl
Also the rear axles where they meet up with the rear hub have been throwing out a lot of grease how can I fix that ? Looks like when I did my springs I kinda hit the part of the axle thats meets the hub with a pry bar and bent something enough to make the boot come off a bit. I put a clamp on it ,but doesn't seem to work to well. I will check this stuff out this weekend.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,649
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From: South FL
Aftermarket Radio with Stock Amps
Hey John on what I called you last nite.it could be done.I searched the forum and didn't find what I wanted.but yes you can use an aftermarket radio and still use you factory amp.it took me till 4am researching on here and online.till I got it.one thing you have to do is ground the body of the radio.and the amp,to get rid of the ground noise.
Last edited by 98$c300; Sep 18, 2009 at 09:10 AM.
Yes it's pretty simple on our cars. Just take a piece of paper and make into a triangle. That would be your lower control arm. As you adjust each eccentric separately, caster will move forward or back along with a little bit of camber. Moving both eccentrics together will adjust camber. So you have to figure out a balance between both eccentrics. And then adjust toe. Remember that adjusting toe will still affect caster and camber slightly. Use the paper to visuallize the movements.
Also remember that you need to adjust the rear camber and toe before the front because it will change the front as you adjust the rear.
Also remember that you need to adjust the rear camber and toe before the front because it will change the front as you adjust the rear.
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Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,520
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From: CA
HHmmm... I'll study it... The reason for this inquiry was because, I measure the driver side wheel vs the passenger side. The driver side is about 1/8th maybe 1/4th closer to the front bumper than the passenger side. This also causes my driver side wheel to rub in the chassis when i turn the wheel all the way to the right.
Yeah that's what's happening to my car now. But it's both sides that's rubbing on the wheel well. It's because my car is low and my caster is a little high. Higher caster will make the car more stable in straight lines like the highways. That's why alot of German cars like BMW run high caster from the factory. Because of the autobahn.
I'm going to roll my front fenders and put back my 15mm spacers. That should be enough to stop the rubbing at full lock.
I'm going to roll my front fenders and put back my 15mm spacers. That should be enough to stop the rubbing at full lock.
Lead Lap
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 680
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From: FL
Ohh ohhh My turn! I need to know of another turbo that is identical or better than the GT35R? I was told that the SC50 is 1 is there any others? Im looking for something that spools a tad quicker than the GT35R.
Last edited by EDTUN3R; Sep 19, 2009 at 05:27 AM.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,021
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From: Palm Harbor ,Fl
I'll make it simple even though it has been explained in detail. You have cam eccentrics for camber front and rear,the front toe has a adjustment nut. You have rear camber and toe,the front you have camber ,caster ,toe. Work from the rear to the front. Adjust camber first then to toe. Once done with that do caster camber then toe. Toe is always adjusted last on the front. In aftermarket coilover setups you won't be able to make the camber 0 with stock cams. Also if you have wheels that will scrap your fender give it up lol. Easy car to do a alignment on cause you don't have to add spacers or removed plastic inserts like domestics and European cars stock.
Thread Starter
Lexus Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,002
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From: SC LAND FL
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,520
Likes: 1
From: CA
I'll make it simple even though it has been explained in detail. You have cam eccentrics for camber front and rear,the front toe has a adjustment nut. You have rear camber and toe,the front you have camber ,caster ,toe. Work from the rear to the front. Adjust camber first then to toe. Once done with that do caster camber then toe. Toe is always adjusted last on the front. In aftermarket coilover setups you won't be able to make the camber 0 with stock cams. Also if you have wheels that will scrap your fender give it up lol. Easy car to do a alignment on cause you don't have to add spacers or removed plastic inserts like domestics and European cars stock.
Yeah 20x8.5 +40 are pretty sunken in. To me at least. I would run at least a 15mm spacer. Make sure you move the harness from under the fender. It may cut through because of your wheels and drop. I'm almost sure the spacers will eliminate the rubbing issue in the wheel well and should still not rub the fender.