BLKonBLK98

http://libertyvip.wordpress.com/2010...-we-do-it-005/

pretty basic but i thought i'd share it since lots of people seem to be scared of this mod.

charley240

iTrader: (6)

nice, nice.
Charley

Infamous 1

iTrader: (20)

There are a couple of write ups in the gen2 gs section

rgarjr

iTrader: (1)

How much more clearance do you get out of cutting a hole? From that top angle it looks like the control arm isn't sticking out that much out.

silos5

iTrader: (3)

I was also wondering what gives more clearence: drilling a hole or shortening the knuckle (like its done here http://libertyvip.wordpress.com/2010...008-continued/ ) ??
From the fotos a hole gives about 1,5 inch. The knuckle can be shortened 2 inches (maybe more).
If I´m on UAS+coilover and I want to go super low in the front, whats the way to go??
may be making hole and shortening the knuckle at the same time??


btw, Liberty VIP

vwynn

iTrader: (4)

"Locate where the UCA is making contact inside your wheel well. If you do not have a mark then you aren’t low enough. Work on that then come back."

i like this one

WidebodyQ

Taken from the comments on the blog
"mine isn’t poking through at all in the pic. i did this in preperation. i’m on coilovers so there was only contact under compression but when i go lower it would have been constant. i’d say the usable gain (height where it bottomed out before vs. height it will bottom out now) is 1-2″ but hardparking (i.e. laid out still on air) could be as much as 3-4″." -BlackonBlack98

This is the easier way to go about it. There is no downtime. With shortening of the knuckle, you need to have a spare otherwise you will have to wait to get it back, install it and pray the welding was done right. Most places won't even do it, you need to find a hotrod shop. I personally would shorten the knuckle or just buy an aftermarket replacement but he did a super clean job while not creating structural weakness by welding up that circle on the strut tower

vipjason

iTrader: (6)

nice write up

abrahams60

iTrader: (1)

Wouldn't it be possible to just get hammer and hammer out a hump?

BLKonBLK98

first of all, the 2 are a little different in what they accomplish. cutting the knuckle is a way of lowering while reducing the need for clearance. cutting the hole is just providing clearance.

now me personally, i would never cut the knuckle. the main reason being, although it can be done, i am against welding cast metal, especially in such a critical area. the other being changes to suspension geometry: upper and lower arms are made to articulate together on a certain path. changing the length of the knuckle changes the relationship of those paths. i'm not an engineer so i can't say for sure that it's a change for the worse, but for the same reason i won't mess with it.

thanks.

you're a bad mf'er if you can hammer it out. the external layer is just sheet metal but the layer beneath is structural.

abrahams60

iTrader: (1)

How about with an air hammer? I'm pretty sure it's won't be possible by hand since there's not enough space to even swing a hammer. I'm sure a lot of people don't have the welding skills or would want to cut a hole there.

You gotta do, what you gotta do, to get the look you want.

Big C

Yep, my roommate did this on his LS400. Soooooo nice to get rid of that annoying sound of the arm hitting the body! I took pics when he did it to his car, just never ended up posting anywhere.

Another buddy did that on his GS400 too. We roll dumped in Az!

silos5

iTrader: (3)

Yeap, I undersand that cutting the knuckle will influence the suspension geometry, but if the right and left knuckles are done the same , then there should be no problem. I mean, how much is the knuckle shortened?? 2-2,5 inches I think...will it dramatically change susp geometry? I dont think so. And as for welding, it should just do a good welder guy and this part will be as strong as the original.
I just dont really see any other way to get super low. These holes doesnt really seem to letting the car go low, well, not for my taste. Any other options/opinions on that???

my question is how to get front wheels on LS400 tuck ??

thanks!

BLKonBLK98

regarding geometry, the relationship between the upper and lower control arms is what controls your camber curve. by shortening the distance between them you are potentially inducing positive camber under compression. not a good thing.

the problem with welding cast iron is in the composition of the metal more than the skill of the welder. something about the carbon content that causes it to become brittle when heated. there are techniques involving heating/cooling and material selection to avoid this, but i'm still against it.



as far as being low, there aren't many lower. now that i don't daily the lexus anymore i will be losing ~1".

the only real obstruction up front, besides the uca, was the tire size (215/40-18 on 8.5 wide). i'm stepping down to a 215/35 (in posession) and will have an ss kit on hand so i will probably be able to lay the front half of the car on the ground if i wanted to. target clearance is <1", right now it's <2".

the rear is the major hold up since i have maxed out my coilovers. an ss kit (ordered) will give me the last 20mm i need and the front will be lowered/raked to match.

as far as tucking wheel, unless you're talking hardparked, the front arch is just cut really high. the only logical way to drive tucked is to get bigger wheels. you could probably (barely) drive (barely) tucking a 19" or park tucking an 18" (on air). 20" would give you a nice, drivable tuck.

silos5

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the write up!

I´m going to use UAS+BC coils. I´ve seen many pictures with lowered Ls400, and none of them tuck front wheels. Mostly it bacause they dont need it, because they use body kits that are bigger then factory´s. I´m using factory bumpers and I want to it to be almost on the groung when parked.

here is ls400 on UAS+factory struts on 20´´ with UCA holes made: http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/p...ember09011.jpg

here is on 19´´ on unknown air susp without UCA holes: http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/Image108.jpg
bumper seems to be almost on the ground, and I believe he has some super small tyres in front. I wonder if he had UCA holes, bumper would be even more to the ground.

I think I will do the holes first, see how it is, and if I´m not happy, I´ll go cutting. I´m also on 19´´, so its a little easier to get looower.

Anyway, thanks for the help, appreciate it a lot!!!