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A week ago, a warning message came on my dash that I'd never seen: Check ACT. STABI. (see picture).
I've got 115k miles and the car still seems to drive fine. I called to set up an appointment with my dealer and it's going in Monday. Strangely, the service agent, who has been there for a long while, said he'd never heard of that warning before and asked me to repeat it a couple times! He didn't say to not drive the car, but after reading some other threads here, at least one person said it's may not be safe to drive.
1. Anyone ever get this warning message/light? I saw another thread where the OP said the dealer told him the active suspension went out right after his 30K service but no dash warning ever came on.
2. Is it okay to drive if the active stabilization is broken? Does it act like normal roll bars etc just without the preloading?
3. I'm not an aggressive driver much these days and if it's a $$ repair, I may just drive it as is.
Thanks for the info. I'm taking mine into the stealership next week for the fps recall and will have them check the warning. Believe it or not I'm hoping it's just the battery, lol.
Thanks for the info. I'm taking mine into the stealership next week for the fps recall and will have them check the warning. Believe it or not I'm hoping it's just the battery, lol.
Thanks again
Neal
Believe me, Neal, I was ecstatic when I found out it was just the battery. I was thinking $1k would be the least amount for the fix at best.
You might want to see if you can charge the battery first. That's what the dealer tried first. Mine wouldn't hold a charge so that's why they replaced it.
If you replace yours yourself, let me know what the part cost. Curious how much I was charged for labor as it looks pretty simple to replace.
Hey guys, so it seems that my act stab battery was drained by my tint guy since he had the car on with thr steering wheel turned for a good part of 2 hours so before I bit the bullet on a new battery I decided to trickle charge it overnight and BINGO that did the trick for me. I would also suggest you try that before looking into replacing the battery.
You might want to see if you can charge the battery first. That's what the dealer tried first. Mine wouldn't hold a charge so that's why they replaced it.
If you replace yours yourself, let me know what the part cost. Curious how much I was charged for labor as it looks pretty simple to replace.
I was quoted $180 for the battery by the Stealership.
Hey guys, so it seems that my act stab battery was drained by my tint guy since he had the car on with thr steering wheel turned for a good part of 2 hours so before I bit the bullet on a new battery I decided to trickle charge it overnight and BINGO that did the trick for me. I would also suggest you try that before looking into replacing the battery.
Good Luck
Thanks! Any trickle charger you recommend? I guess California has some extra regulations on which you can purchase.
My wife has this displayed on our 2008 car, have had the GS540h into the local dealership, UK. I'm told that for £5500 they need to replace the front active stabilizer bar to repair! Apparently, active stabilizer is standard on the sport model, which we have.
Techstream seems to suggest, the second auxiliary battery is faulty , although metered voltage is 12.5v which seems quite adequate. Having run the stabilizer test, in techstream it appears Robbie, oh that's watch the children call the car because of its registration plate, doesn't read data from the stearing wheel angle sensors. Wondering where to go next?
Diagnostic codes are:
C1911 Rear Main Relay
C1939 Front Boosted Voltage
C194E Deterioration Sub Battery
C1950 Not Attainment to Target Angle in Front Stabilizer
Next rant will be about shock absorbers. But at £800 for a rear pair.... What happens to the days when you get them replaced and 90% was the labour not the parts. Stopping now as I'm going into grumpy old man mode.
Hello, my battery was also showing about 12v but I charged it and it held the charge and my notification went away. I would suggest you try to charge the active stabilization battery because I'm thinking that many of those error codes could be the result of the battery being 'low'. It's definitely worth a shot before you have to bite the bullet on those costs. Good Luck!
Thanks Patwaal, the more I look into it the more I think it is battery related, it started just after its annual MOT (UK road worthiness test). The car was sat for about 45 minutes with the ignition on. A little like yours with the tint guy. Lexus quoted £175 for the replacement battery, it's the same as old Mazda MX5's battery, I will be calling them tomorrow, hope they will be a bit cheaper. I have tried trickle charging, but I'm not sure my charger is much good for this gel type battery. Ps. I have found http://intranet.toyotaperu.com.pe/td...02ncf004x.html a excellent site for masses of information on this issue and all sorts of other Lexus technical information.
Let me know if any of you guys changed the battery yourself? My light just came back on and now I think the battery is doneski. It doesn't seem too complicated but there are some attachments that seem crucial.