Getting into alignment
now, the big question is... adjustable rear lower control arm... or adj trac arm....adjustable A arm....
(your offset on your rims; the width/size of your tires and the height of which you’d be setting as your base height) all play a factor in which you should lean towards getting... (for clearance in the wheel well purpose.
For the front; you gotta definitely get UCa, rca.... but... will you need an adj caster arm... only when you check the alignment. Will you know.
Lol sorry if this adds more food for thought instead of answers.
if you’re rims; ride height setting and what nots are for the most part mild to kinda pushing beyond normal tuned.
front:
- adj uca and rca should suffice
rear:
- keep original lca but change out knuckle bushing.
- toe link
- adj a arm
i figured id take the opportunity to freshen up the suspension with new and upgraded components.
Luckiky I run a shop and will do everything in house.
Good luck on the car... definitely will check in again to see how it turns out for you
now, the big question is... adjustable rear lower control arm... or adj trac arm....adjustable A arm....
(your offset on your rims; the width/size of your tires and the height of which you’d be setting as your base height) all play a factor in which you should lean towards getting... (for clearance in the wheel well purpose.
For the front; you gotta definitely get UCa, rca.... but... will you need an adj caster arm... only when you check the alignment. Will you know.
Lol sorry if this adds more food for thought instead of answers.
if you’re rims; ride height setting and what nots are for the most part mild to kinda pushing beyond normal tuned.
front:
- adj uca and rca should suffice
rear:
- keep original lca but change out knuckle bushing.
- toe link
- adj a arm
I was wondering how necessary you think the adjustable upper a arms are for the rear ? I added the (smallest amount -->) +1 degree of POSITIVE camber with the rear RCA's... and they lower the car approx 3/4"- but get this.... even with the 3/4" drop, the rear actually had POSITIVE camber! (on factory springs/struts) So, for now, lol... I added about 100 lbs of weights in the spare tire well- all wrapped up in towels, and put the cover & carpet back over it. Got it aligned and now has EXACTLY 0.0 degrees of camber in the back. ha
I'm hoping the camber is cool with the absolute lowest I can get the GS to sit with the Air Lift struts installed.... (if it's neg the rear, that's fine with me--- just really hoping my 19x10 wheels with 275/30's will fit without me trimming the fender lip or anything) Guess we'll see! ?
I'll keep you guys posted...
THANKS AGAIN....
OP--- PLEASE post pics of yours when it's done!
I would be concerned with that positive camber more so cause... are you not slammed enough to need to utilize the rear rca?
And right now, the camber is at 0.0 (which is more than it should be, stock specs are -.2 or something) But for now, it's driveable, until I install the Air Lift struts, and rest of the air ride, ya know?)
Trending Topics
toe arms do not need to be even on both sides. Your turning radius from dead center should hopefully be though. Lol
. If the bolts are maxed out. Only way to get more is to widen the slots on the control arm to allow more range of movement. That’s what determines the degrees allowed to move. Look up the SPC rear camber bolts instructions. That’s what you’re suppose to do for the camber kit to work. That people don’t realize and blow $80 on
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe







