Non-Adjustable Alignment Geometry
Which alignment geometry is not adjustable on a stock 2014 IS350 F-Sport RWD? Or in other words, can front and rear camber, toe, and caster (front only) be adjusted without modification?
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt
Expanding this thread to include AWD:
The 3ISX50 AWD does have Front Camber adjustment capability but no Rear Camber adjustment.
Inspecting the suspension geometry in more detail, I note that both the front and rear wheel bearings are of the flanged, bolt to the upright, vertical suspension member type, not a press into a fixed bore, cartridge type bearing.
Therefore Camber adjustment could be made by approperate shimming of the bearing flange to the upright suspension member.
BTDT on my C5 Audi A6, but this will be a little more complicated inasmuch as the 4 bolt pattern of the bearing mount flange is not oriented in the horizontal and vertical planes, but rather at an estimated 45 degrees.
The required shim thickness is easily calculated knowing the bearing mount bolt circle diameter.
Thus, for a 1 degree camber change, the 4.25" bolt circle X tan 1 degree = 0.0175" thick shim.
My DIY alignment measurements of Rear Camber pretty well correlates with that of the Dealer's last alignment,
-1.5 both sides vs. -1.7 L and -2.0 R.
For DD max tire life I would shoot for a Camber range of zero to -0.5, both sides being identical. And with zero total toe.
A big job that can wait until new tires are in order.
The 3ISX50 AWD does have Front Camber adjustment capability but no Rear Camber adjustment.
Inspecting the suspension geometry in more detail, I note that both the front and rear wheel bearings are of the flanged, bolt to the upright, vertical suspension member type, not a press into a fixed bore, cartridge type bearing.
Therefore Camber adjustment could be made by approperate shimming of the bearing flange to the upright suspension member.
BTDT on my C5 Audi A6, but this will be a little more complicated inasmuch as the 4 bolt pattern of the bearing mount flange is not oriented in the horizontal and vertical planes, but rather at an estimated 45 degrees.
The required shim thickness is easily calculated knowing the bearing mount bolt circle diameter.
Thus, for a 1 degree camber change, the 4.25" bolt circle X tan 1 degree = 0.0175" thick shim.
My DIY alignment measurements of Rear Camber pretty well correlates with that of the Dealer's last alignment,
-1.5 both sides vs. -1.7 L and -2.0 R.
For DD max tire life I would shoot for a Camber range of zero to -0.5, both sides being identical. And with zero total toe.
A big job that can wait until new tires are in order.
Just to confirm, Camber cannot be adjusted on a RWD IS 350 ?
On my prior cars, i normally get a slightly more aggressive alignment compared to OEM specs. Is it possible to do on this car and will i kill my tires fast if i do this?
Note, i drive thru very tight & twisty canyon roads on my daily commute...
On my prior cars, i normally get a slightly more aggressive alignment compared to OEM specs. Is it possible to do on this car and will i kill my tires fast if i do this?
Note, i drive thru very tight & twisty canyon roads on my daily commute...
Just to confirm, Camber cannot be adjusted on a RWD IS 350 ?
On my prior cars, i normally get a slightly more aggressive alignment compared to OEM specs. Is it possible to do on this car and will i kill my tires fast if i do this?
Note, i drive thru very tight & twisty canyon roads on my daily commute...
On my prior cars, i normally get a slightly more aggressive alignment compared to OEM specs. Is it possible to do on this car and will i kill my tires fast if i do this?
Note, i drive thru very tight & twisty canyon roads on my daily commute...
if camber adjustment is wanted, aftermarket suspension arms will have to be installed.
A poor TOE would eats tires faster then a poor CAMBER alignment
Look at rockauto for aftermarket camber adjusters...
If your path is more canyon curves than straits body roll and wheel loading is often enough to negate more aggressive camber settings like -1.75 to -2.25°.
If your path is more canyon curves than straits body roll and wheel loading is often enough to negate more aggressive camber settings like -1.75 to -2.25°.
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