Caslte nut on lower ball joints. How tight?
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Caslte nut on lower ball joints. How tight?
I think my issue is a loose castle nut on my drivers side. I just did finger tight and then backed off till i saw the cotter pin hole. Should I be torqued some?
Fixture
Fixture
#2
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
Repair manual says 119ft lb. I'm sure finger tight is a bit loose. Dont know where you got the idea to back off from finger tight for a cotter pined nut, this is mechanics, things have to be tight. I tighten by hand as tight as I can go and usually it lines up with the hole or I go a bit tighter til i find the hole. It seems illogical to loosen a bolt. Also, force is need to suck the ball joint bolt through the hole to lock in place, so the problem is not so much that the nut is loose, its that you didnt completely install the ball joint, you just sat in on top of the lower control arm.
Last edited by Mr Jokster; 12-08-14 at 05:20 PM.
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
wow. Didn't know castle nuts could be torqued that tight. Thanks for the info. Will check and re-tighten everything tonight and report back after driving it some. it makes sense though I didn't seat the ball joint inside the arm.
Last edited by akafixture; 12-08-14 at 05:39 PM.
#4
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
Yea, since you have to use a pitman puller to remove it, you would think some force would be needed to get it back in Another way I suppose to get the bolt through there is to hammer down on the ball joint to set it in, but elbow grease can still do the job, doesnt take too much strength to pull that bolt through.
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
Update. I tighted the lower ball joing some last night and the outer tie rod was not tight either. Went for a ride and after about 5 or 6 miles it started the clicking/ clunk sound again. Its only when I come to a stop, so I know something is shifting with the weight of the car. So frustrating. I can tell its metal on metal because I can feel in thru the pedals in the car and I can also hear it. I didnt torque it to 110lbs, so maybe that is the problem. Will work on it again tonight and see what else I find.
#6
Advanced
Update. I tighted the lower ball joing some last night and the outer tie rod was not tight either. Went for a ride and after about 5 or 6 miles it started the clicking/ clunk sound again. Its only when I come to a stop, so I know something is shifting with the weight of the car. So frustrating. I can tell its metal on metal because I can feel in thru the pedals in the car and I can also hear it. I didnt torque it to 110lbs, so maybe that is the problem. Will work on it again tonight and see what else I find.
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
I did notice a little movement on the center portion of the caliper, but I thought that was normal. I will double check that tonight. Thanks for the headsup on that one.
Trending Topics
#9
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
Do a little research before you kill yourself. All the proper info is on this site. Go get a $30 torque wrench from walmart and actually torque to the proper values (foot-pounds are to the far right). The 87 ft-lbs is the caliper bracket to the spindle. The torque for the caliper to the caliper bracket is 25 ft-lbs. Three bolts hold the ball-joint in place. I'm guessing you didn't fully torque the middle to 119 or the two outer ones to 83.
Last edited by tiger4life; 12-09-14 at 10:34 AM.
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
Once I get home I will get out my torque wrench and get to work. Will report back tomorrow. Thanks all. I really need to get the service/repair manual for this car.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
es30000000
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
2
12-04-12 07:56 PM