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Tips on removing rear suspension arms?

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Old 02-22-14, 02:46 PM
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ArkLaTexSC
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I've been trying to remove these with a pitman and other stuff to replace a wheel bearing. They seem really tight and pitman only fits one. Anyone who's done this, can you tell what you did to remove these?
Old 02-22-14, 08:34 PM
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k7q
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hit it with a BIG hammer. that's what i used since space was limited.
Old 02-23-14, 12:50 PM
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Thanks for the help. I was definitely not expecting what happened when I got the first one. Huge bang. The damn things are tapered near the back - scared the **** out of me. Just 1 left, gotta grab a different size tool. Broke an adapter on the bottom-most one with the 19 nut and bolt. I think I had to put 80-90 lbs on a 25" cheater bar.
Old 02-23-14, 04:29 PM
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Got the last one out after several hours - no puller would fit. Is the metal cover behind where the brake rotor is...necessary? I pretty much bent the hell out of the bottom to get room.
Old 02-25-14, 10:36 AM
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mecheng10
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Originally Posted by ArkLaTexSC
Got the last one out after several hours - no puller would fit. Is the metal cover behind where the brake rotor is...necessary? I pretty much bent the hell out of the bottom to get room.
nope
most people remove them when they do the tt upgrade anyways
it sorta helps with preventing debris from tearing up rubber boots and all that
Old 03-06-14, 02:11 PM
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The two lines connected to the hub race. How do I remove them? ABS speed sensor line and ebrake line.

Edit: this is what I get for thinking that the image wasn't attaching
Attached Thumbnails Tips on removing rear suspension arms?-image-1242253987.jpg   Tips on removing rear suspension arms?-image-2240116304.jpg   Tips on removing rear suspension arms?-image-2845113458.jpg   Tips on removing rear suspension arms?-image-3985749357.jpg  
Old 03-06-14, 05:33 PM
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k7q
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abs line should just come off. looks a bit rusted. so try to jiggle it? e brake line. you have to remove the caliper/rotor and remove the ebrake line that's connected behind the rotor.
Old 03-06-14, 05:53 PM
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BattleVer
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Might be easier to remove the cable from the tunnel. Need to loosen up the ebrake, there is a screw holding the tension on the cable under the leather boot. Once it is slacked off, under the car by the drive shaft you will see where it connects to both sides. You can pop the cables out at the junction.
Old 03-06-14, 06:07 PM
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ArkLaTexSC
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Originally Posted by BattleVer
Might be easier to remove the cable from the tunnel. Need to loosen up the ebrake, there is a screw holding the tension on the cable under the leather boot. Once it is slacked off, under the car by the drive shaft you will see where it connects to both sides. You can pop the cables out at the junction.
It's stretched, I tightened via the handle (leather boot non existent in my car, made it easier) and still doesn't lock (though works), clearly well-used. I'll loosen and look for that junction - not much room for me under the car at the moment though, got an idea about how far it is?
Old 03-06-14, 06:08 PM
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ArkLaTexSC
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Originally Posted by k7q
abs line should just come off. looks a bit rusted. so try to jiggle it? e brake line. you have to remove the caliper/rotor and remove the ebrake line that's connected behind the rotor.
It seems solid. WD-40'd already. There's only one screw, right?
Old 03-06-14, 08:16 PM
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k7q
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try to tap the metal braket gently with a small hammer to make it spin/ rotate maybe it would free up some of the rust.
Old 03-06-14, 08:22 PM
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ArkLaTexSC
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Originally Posted by k7q
try to tap the metal braket gently with a small hammer to make it spin/ rotate maybe it would free up some of the rust.
Okay, I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.
Old 03-07-14, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by k7q
try to tap the metal braket gently with a small hammer to make it spin/ rotate maybe it would free up some of the rust.
This worked to free it up, though I had to take off the hub from the axle and hit it from the inside before it came out completely. Lots of rust and grime. Hub clearly wasn't sealed.
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