Megan Weld Quality Concern
#1
Megan Weld Quality Concern
I bought a set of Megan Front upper control arms and rear camber arms for my 2008 IS350 to help me achieve my perfect track day alignment (along with some BC coilovers). In getting my Megan stuff I am a little concerned with some of the quality of the welds. There are small gaps (~1/4inch) in the welds were you can clearly see 2 surfaces that are supposed to be welded together with an air gap between them. I am kind of concerned that these will not live up to the abuse of the track. Or I may just be a little **** about it as I am a mechanical engineer. Or I just got a bad set of arms. Has anyone had any issues with weld quality on their Megan stuff?
#2
Pole Position
iTrader: (5)
I have megan rear camber, toe, and front UCA's and the welds look okay (no gaps). I also received a second set of UCA's on accident by a company and they looked good too. Maybe contact the vendor you got these through to exchange? I understand your concern, I'm an ME too.
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
Exchange them, or if that isn't possible go directly to Megan. The picture seems to show contamination between the two surfaces, if I were a manufacturer and something like that made it through QC I would want to know about it, and would not want that liabilty installed on a customer's car.
#4
Thanks for the help. I might try and exchange them. What is pictured is a spot where there is no weld where there should be. In the hole you can see the edge of the tube that is suppose to be welded to the plate but there is just a gap between them. The contamination is just a bunch of dust collected in the hole where the weld should be.
Last edited by Sportskid1; 06-25-13 at 12:46 PM.
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
I bet it'll function fine and live up to its purpose; but seeing you know that imperfection is there will haunt you I'm sure. I'd return it for the peace of mind. I would seriously hope that it was the manufacturers intention to fully weld all around the two pieces and not leave that with a gap like that.
BTW, when welding...you need to have a gap between the two pieces slightly to allow for pentration.
BTW, when welding...you need to have a gap between the two pieces slightly to allow for pentration.
#6
I am going to go ahead and exchange them. Yes they very well could have been completely fine as is but with my engineering background I know a break in the weld like that causes a huge stress spot and significanty decreases the stength of the weld. 2 of the tracks I go to have 100+mph corners and I really don't something to break throwing me into a concrete wall at that speed.
#7
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
I am going to go ahead and exchange them. Yes they very well could have been completely fine as is but with my engineering background I know a break in the weld like that causes a huge stress spot and significanty decreases the stength of the weld. 2 of the tracks I go to have 100+mph corners and I really don't something to break throwing me into a concrete wall at that speed.
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#8
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
I am going to go ahead and exchange them. Yes they very well could have been completely fine as is but with my engineering background I know a break in the weld like that causes a huge stress spot and significanty decreases the stength of the weld. 2 of the tracks I go to have 100+mph corners and I really don't something to break throwing me into a concrete wall at that speed.
Now, if you'd like a part that would not make you think twice about its quality...check these out!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silk-Road-Adjustable-Front-Upper-Arms-for-06-12-Lexus-IS-250-350-JDM-VIP-/370810867509?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ALexus%7CModel%3AIS350&hash=item56560ccf35&vxp=mtr#ht_804wt_916
#9
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
^ WOW! I really doubt there are many takers for a set of ~$1,350 front upper arms though.
Megan rear camber arms (toe arms as well) don't have any welding so they should be ok. But thanks for the heads up; I'll definately be careful looking at the rest of the stuff as I gather parts to do what Sportskid1 is doing.
I did notice that the new MEGAN "pink" items have some weld imperfections.....I called my seller and he was able to get me "blue" colored traction arms but not camber arms so I decided to go with SPC. I would definitely inspect your parts thoroughly and raise a flag if you do not feel comfortable.....good eye and picture! GL with your parts and install!
#10
So THMotorsports (where I bought them) contacted Megan and Megan's response is "All the arms have that same weld and we have no history of failures." Really not the response I was looking for. Having a hard time trying to decide what to do here. MIght just run them or I could go the SPC route but I really want the positive and negative adjustments so I can add a lot of camber during my track season and have the option to put it back to the manufactures spec if I take some time off from the track. I don't think the SPC ball joints will allow me to do that as they offer only positive or negative adjustments. Can someome correct me if I am wrong here.
Also I only plan on dropping the car about 1.5- 2 inches max when I install my BC's as I don't want any rubbing isses. What sort of camber can I expect to get out of the front after the drop with no aftermarket equipment? I am shooting for -2.5 deg so if the drop will give me that I think the SPC's might work.
Also I only plan on dropping the car about 1.5- 2 inches max when I install my BC's as I don't want any rubbing isses. What sort of camber can I expect to get out of the front after the drop with no aftermarket equipment? I am shooting for -2.5 deg so if the drop will give me that I think the SPC's might work.
#12
I agree that FIGs is the best but they really don't have anything for camber adjustments in the front. Just an adjustable bushing that gives +/- 0.5 deg adjustment which will not work for me. Not many options for the IS front camber adjustments.
Last edited by Sffd103; 06-27-13 at 04:35 PM.
#13
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
though i do find it strange as to the missing weld.. I can understand not welding it as well.. if its tubing it can gradually accumulate condensation on the inside (water).. I'm a licensed millwright and i've cut into pieces of tubing and gotten blasted by old dirty water haha I'm not saying that this is the reason for the finish on your parts but just keep all the factors in mind.. I am sure it will hold up as they say it will.. i'd run it
#15
I contacted Megan directly and they did seem to have concern for the quality of the welds. They had me submit a warrenty claim which I am still waiting to hear back on. Hopefully this works out and I can get a repalcement asap as my BC coilover are suppose to arrive this Fri and I want to get them on asap.