DIY - Rear Axle Carrier (Knuckle) Bushing Replacement
havent been online in a few days....i ordered mine. i actually dont have any noises so i dunno if i will install them till needed but i will have them if i ever need them. seems alot of people are ordering them....he had 51 the first day i got his email and now he only has 34
thanks OP for the DIY
thanks OP for the DIY
I just noticed this thread and think that this looks like the correct part for the camber bushing. When I was designing a replacement, I heard that the Atezza had a bushing that might work, and I found a Japanese part, but it wasn't quite right. This one looks spot-on.
Nice work Leon!
best,
dd
Nice work Leon!
best,
dd
I would like to chime in my experience on this project.
I was getting clunking at low speeds.. I read the thread and ordered the bushing on eBay.
I got to working on it.. I have a 98 GS 300. There are 4 bolts on the said axle piece. It was UNNECESSARY to remove any of the bolts except for the one closest to the caliper/rotor assembly. It's 19mm on one side and bigger on the other. You take those out and the rotor assembly comes right up and ready for you to switch out the bushing.
It was counter productive to loosen some of those other bolts as they were rusted/seized in there pretty badly. It became just a difficult a job to either get that bolt out or get it back in... both of which proved very difficult. i ended up using the same tool to pull/push the bushing as I did to push the bolt back in place!!
Using a 32mm socket to push the bushing back in, I ripped the boot on one side. It appears auto zone sells replacement boots for ball joints.. I'll see what I can find. Otherwise, I'll wait and see and may have to change it out again.. maybe not. Time will tell.
The bushing wouldn't go in WITHOUT filing it down!
That's my experience.. hope it helps someone.
http://energysuspension.com/products...int-Boots.html
I was getting clunking at low speeds.. I read the thread and ordered the bushing on eBay.
I got to working on it.. I have a 98 GS 300. There are 4 bolts on the said axle piece. It was UNNECESSARY to remove any of the bolts except for the one closest to the caliper/rotor assembly. It's 19mm on one side and bigger on the other. You take those out and the rotor assembly comes right up and ready for you to switch out the bushing.
It was counter productive to loosen some of those other bolts as they were rusted/seized in there pretty badly. It became just a difficult a job to either get that bolt out or get it back in... both of which proved very difficult. i ended up using the same tool to pull/push the bushing as I did to push the bolt back in place!!
Using a 32mm socket to push the bushing back in, I ripped the boot on one side. It appears auto zone sells replacement boots for ball joints.. I'll see what I can find. Otherwise, I'll wait and see and may have to change it out again.. maybe not. Time will tell.
The bushing wouldn't go in WITHOUT filing it down!
That's my experience.. hope it helps someone.
http://energysuspension.com/products...int-Boots.html
The bushing wouldn't go in WITHOUT filing it down!
just curious..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/690-GS300-GS...4#ht_500wt_715
what the hell is that one for?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/690-GS300-GS...4#ht_500wt_715
what the hell is that one for?
This question often comes up. This is NOT the correct bushing, this one is for the trailing arm (lower left corner), not the control arm (lower center). It goes into the red circled hole in the knuckle, but the one we are talking about here goes into the green circled hole.
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/product/?id=3322
when i installed my FIGS Trac Links, i also installed this bushing since one of mine were bad.











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